Coroplast sign ink?

[jason-23]

Anybody have a cheap source for coroplast ink. Tubelite want $86 for a gallon and i dont need a gallon. Is there a cheaper alternative maybe? Thanks guys!

[royster13]

Ebay......

[Homer]

http://www.sourceoneonline.com/item.asp?categoryID=0&sectionID=0&subSectionID=0&subSection2ID=0&subSection3ID=0&attrCatID=0&attrIDs=0&searchtext=7900&catID=65&catTab=&productID=51


7900

[Sbrem]

You can use a Multi-purpose air dry ink, like for posters and election signs, and add some NazDar NB70 to it to get it to stick to coroplast. When we tried actual Coroplast inks, they had all kinds of drying in issues, stringiness, just a PIA. Now days, supercheapsigns.com sells them so cheap we don't even bother anymore.

Steve

[tpitman]

Jason,

I've got a few quarts of Coro-Gloss from Nazdar, and I think some retarder, that I'll never use again. Red, Black, Blue and Green, I think.
Next pass by my storage unit to confirm and they're yours if you want them. They've been in storage for 3 years, but sealed up so they should be good.

[Inkworks]

It sounds like this type of screenprinting might be new to you, if it isn't I apologize for stating stuff you may already know.

A big part of printing on coroplast is the coroplast itself. Almost all of it is print-treated (either flamed or corona-discharge primed) when you get it, but that only lasts so long, after which ink adhesion drops off quickly. Most screen printed coro won't stand-up to vinyl-cut name drops on top as the transfer tape will lift the ink. If you're printing light on dark you may need a white underbase or to double-hit. In either case good jigging (3 point jig system) on the first hit is essential.

You should also have thinner and retarder on hand to modify the ink as needed. If you're familiar with DC/WB printing on T's you should be off to a good start, but most solvent based inks will dry even faster than that on the screen, and will need to be re-thinned during big runs. I've found most solvent inks either flat out need, or at least benefit from some retarder or thinner straight out of the can.

Make sure you have everything (thinned ink, screen opener/lacquer thinner, rags, puller, racking etc.)  ready to go before you start, and remember if you're printing large areas you'll likely need some type of hold-down for the coro, be it a vacuum table or a little platen adhesive so the coro doesn't stick to the screen.

[jason-23]

What about house paint, latex?

[Homer]

no...jay......just no.....

[tpitman]

It sounds like this type of screenprinting might be new to you, if it isn't I apologize for stating stuff you may already know.

A big part of printing on coroplast is the coroplast itself. Almost all of it is print-treated (either flamed or corona-discharge primed) when you get it, but that only lasts so long, after which ink adhesion drops off quickly. Most screen printed coro won't stand-up to vinyl-cut name drops on top as the transfer tape will lift the ink. If you're printing light on dark you may need a white underbase or to double-hit. In either case good jigging (3 point jig system) on the first hit is essential.

You should also have thinner and retarder on hand to modify the ink as needed. If you're familiar with DC/WB printing on T's you should be off to a good start, but most solvent based inks will dry even faster than that on the screen, and will need to be re-thinned during big runs. I've found most solvent inks either flat out need, or at least benefit from some retarder or thinner straight out of the can.

Make sure you have everything (thinned ink, screen opener/lacquer thinner, rags, puller, racking etc.)  ready to go before you start, and remember if you're printing large areas you'll likely need some type of hold-down for the coro, be it a vacuum table or a little platen adhesive so the coro doesn't stick to the screen.

Everything he just said.
I built a "press" out of some particle board, shim and perforated masonite, with a cheap shop vac to pull, and a couple of jiffy hinges.
Add 10% by weight retarder.
Set everything up before you start, and have somewhere to set the signs up to dry.
Flood stroke between print strokes.

As soon as the last print is pulled, grab your rags or paper towels and go at the screen with a solvent screen wash. Get it as clean as you can, then straight to the washout sink with your usual ink degradent.

I had good luck printing this stuff. Did some 2-color Papa John's signs for a function at an apartment complex.

Money-wise, I could compete with other shops for retail, but if I was printing for resale through a broker, margins got tight.

I don't have the room now to fiddle with it. I've turned down a few jobs for that reason.

I've kept the "press" in case I decide to do art prints or posters, but I'm done with yard signs.

One last thing with solvent inks: wear a respirator, unless the equivalent of paint huffing is your idea of recreation.

[mk162]

i hated printing coroplast.  I still have the inks, but I doubt I will use them on anything.  Screen Printers are hoarders.

[sportsshoppe]

i hated printing coroplast.  I still have the inks, but I doubt I will use them on anything.  Screen Printers are hoarders.

Some NASTY stuff, its like concrete once you start you need to finish the job then don't take a lunch or cig break. The stuff will set up quick and the retarder is really a need. You will use lots. When I bought my buisness it had a auto printer for political signs and  such and every two years I worked it hard but the clean up and chemicals sucked. Glad I got rid of it, I can send them somewhere else that is much more capable of doing them.

[tpitman]

If Jason's still looking for it, I dug my stuff out of storage. See the photos.
Opened the previously open cans and everything is good.
A full gallon of screen wash and a bit extra in the other container.
The can of retarder is 90% full.
The two cans of ink with the white plastic rings on the lid are brand new, never opened.
The reflex blue is 90% full.
The green is about half full or more.
Free for the taking. No strings attached.
If it isn't taken, it's going to the hazardous waste facility.
If Jason doesn't take it and someone else wants it, hit me up.
If Dan wants it, I'll friggin' deliver it since I haven't seen his shop yet.

[Sbrem]

What about house paint, latex?

Tell me you didn't just say that... No, don't try that, unless you're going to paint each one individually...

Steve

[ebscreen]

I've seen it done with Rustoleum enamel and baby powder to thicken.

Though Coroplast is so funky I would never throw in another variable. Or in that
case, ever print it again.

[mk162]

we had an employee that used house paint to print shirts when he was following Wings with Paul McCartney.