First 4 color process

[noiseloops]

This is the result.  Turned out a bit redish. Maybe I woild need to manipulatw the image futher. Qould love hear your opinions.
230 mesh, 40lpi. Accurip. CMYK Seperation in Coreldraw.

Original image


Printed image

[sweetts]

What kind of press?


RT Screen Designs
www.rtscreendesigns.com

[blue moon]

not bad for a first try without any outside help!

It's hard to tell, but it looks like you are missing some yellow there. My guess is, lack of yellow is more of an issue than too much red. There are also areas that should have black in them and it's not there (creases in the singer's shirt).
From what I can tell without a good image, I would say your yellow screen was either not burned correctly or the separtions are off. Red does not seem as bad, you just need less of it (harder squeegee, less pressure, stand it up and print a little faster).

Did you even use the cyan screen? It does not look like it needs any. . . .

can you post a higher resolution image of the print? 'not trying to give you hard time, just throw few pointers your way.

pierre

[noiseloops]

@sweetts its a manual press. vastex v1000

@blue moon thank you for that. any help would be good! to be honest the whole idea of me being on here is to get pointers! can't be relying much on youtube.
the yellow registration was a bit off. but as i was in a rush for another appointment, i thought i could get away with it. yikes. but this was the first time i was working with plastisol as well. so it was a whole new experience.

attached are higher res images.

[sweetts]

Nice work how hard is it to stay consistent on a manual?


RT Screen Designs
www.rtscreendesigns.com

[noiseloops]

Not sure about consistency as this was a tryout as I've not done it before. But the 5 prints that I did were pretty ok.

[sweetts]

Yeah I just heard it is hard to keep everything looking the same on a manual press, but it looks good man.


RT Screen Designs
www.rtscreendesigns.com

[Sbrem]

you are correct Sweetts, it's pretty much impossible. The prints will still look good, but there are subtle color shifts, especially in the neutrals. People aren't robots, they can't apply the exact same pressure and angle, and flood stroke every time; machines can. But even a machine can have drift if not calibrated correctly. But go for it anyway, I'm not trying to dissuade you.

Steve

[noiseloops]

you are correct Sweetts, it's pretty much impossible. The prints will still look good, but there are subtle color shifts, especially in the neutrals. People aren't robots, they can't apply the exact same pressure and angle, and flood stroke every time; machines can. But even a machine can have drift if not calibrated correctly. But go for it anyway, I'm not trying to dissuade you.

Steve

Now where did I misplace that robot of mine. Hehehe

[Sbrem]

I learned the hard way like you did. I printed a few hundred for a radio station, by hand before we bought our first auto, (a really long time ago) and though they looked pretty good, you couldn't find 2 that matched. The main concern with that is getting paid without having to discount the bill. You know the kids they handed them out to couldn't care less. But the guy writing the check, that's another story.

Steve

[ScreenFoo]

Uh oh, he didn't want a pic of all the kids lined up in the shirts he paid for, did he?   

Not a bad run at it from the pics.

Won't help you on the proof/selling side, but going down to 30-35 LPI will make consistency waaaay easier.   But they won't look as 'smooth'.
I know it's poor technique, but I rarely flood doing a manual 4CP, and it seems to help me a lot. 

[noiseloops]

@Sbrem i know where you're getting at. but this was just a test bed/fun project as you can see, I'm nowhere near hundreds job run. plus we thought, it would be pretty cool to add 4CP to the list, as not many shops are doing it out here. its like, if it works out, it works out, we won't feel hard done by it.

@ScreenFoo thank you for that! thats what i feel as well if we went down to lower LPI. cause it seems like most are going for that 55lpi thing and its a scary bit for me. btw, how much off contact do you have., if any. i tried with 1/8" this time, but it seems like some advised against having any. only thing i noticed is, if no off contact, printing wet on wet will affect the result would it?

[blue moon]

huh, real busy here and not a lot of time to post. . .

it looks like you are holding the dots just fine, but there are inconsistencies with the amount of ink being deposited. There is too much red in some places and yellow seems to be missing while it is obvious that it was printed and it comes through fine on the back of the first person on the left. In other words, you have too much red and not enough yellow.

The dots look good, and it might be a good idea to stick with the dot size you are using now.

As far as the issues, it's either in the screens or in the way you print. When you compare the printed image to the films, do they look the same? If the films look like your print, the problem is in the seps or exposure. If the films look different than the print, the issue is in the exposure or the printing.

pierre

[ScreenFoo]

OC is rather dependent on your tension and squeegee profile/sharpness.
If you're getting good transfer without excessive gain, you're probably OK on it.  A minimum of OC will help with registration.

[kingscreen]

I've found that skin tones can be a challenge with process printing. One thing you may want to try is changing your print order. We made this video a few years ago in which we printed CYMK versus our standard YMCK order. We found that the skin tone came out much better. All 305 mesh at 45 or 50 LPI (Don't remember now).

CMYK PROCESS SCREEN PRINTING ON T-SHIRTS