Difference Between Pantone 226U and 226C

[Fresh Baked Printing]

The Union ink mix formula has the same 4 inks, just in different proportions for the 226 U and C versions.

[Frog]

Where is this formula?
I'm looking at what I though was current, Uni-Match 2.2.1 software version of the formulas, for U versions and I only see formulas for C in the Mixo, Auto, and Mach systems.

[Fresh Baked Printing]

Right?

[Frog]

That looks great, but what the hell version of the software is it?
I have 2.2.1 installed, and that is also what the website offers.

In it, it even makes this statement:
The PANTONE MATCHING SYSTEM®, developed by Pantone, Inc., is the most widely used in the graphic arts industry. PANTONE® Colors are identified by three or four digit numbers followed either by a C or a U. PANTONE numbers followed by a "C" have a glossy finish and PANTONE numbers followed by a "U" have a matte or dull finish. Union Ink formulas simulate the brighter PANTONE "C" Colors because that is what nearly all textile screen printing customers request.

Why am I being deprived of this new option?  Why didn't I get the memo?

[Frog]

Okay, I solved the mystery on my own. I use Mixo.
Apparently in the Mach series, though there is not a "U" section, but there are a few "U" formulas interspersed with their "C" equivalents. Only a few though.

[Dottonedan]

My old boss and I often had this discussion.
The bottom line is that most everyone uses coated as a reference point. With that said, anyone could us a U color and that would be your target.

The kicker us ghat you can take any C color and make it a U based on how you treat it on the substrate.
Likewise, you can take any U color and make it glossy depending on what you want.
It's a matter of aching your target. Sometimes a U look is just a matter of application or technique.

[Sbrem]

A fair turnaround for the deeper Cerise over the Neon Magenta in the U formula, I suspected it would be darker, but I thought it would darkened with black. Cool...

Steve

[JBLUE]

My old boss and I often had this discussion.
The bottom line is that most everyone uses coated as a reference point. With that said, anyone could us a U color and that would be your target.

The kicker us ghat you can take any C color and make it a U based on how you treat it on the substrate.
Likewise, you can take any U color and make it glossy depending on what you want.
It's a matter of aching your target. Sometimes a U look is just a matter of application or technique.

Again, I think this only further proves that it's rather ambiguous as your experience of "most use C" is the complete opposite of my experience.

[Dottonedan]

My old boss and I often had this discussion.
The bottom line is that most everyone uses coated as a reference point. With that said, anyone could us a U color and that would be your target.

The kicker is that you can take any C color and make it a U based on how you treat it on the substrate.
Likewise, you can take any U color and make it glossy depending on what you want.
It's a matter of achieving your target. Sometimes a U look is just a matter of application or technique.

Again, I think this only further proves that it's rather ambiguous as your experience of "most use C" is the complete opposite of my experience.

That may be true. Since we are using the topic of exp. as a gauge now,  My exp. is apparently the complete opposite of yours. I ask you to consider this as food for thought on the topic...

I, work with (other printers) from all over. Some are small garage shops and some are 300 employee shops. It's part of my job to work with art for all of these shops and part of my job to decipher color in the art.  I have even worked with providing art as well as separating art for company's over seas who then work with other large well known US retail company's. Of all that I have worked with, none (zero) have ever required me or even suggested that I call out pms colors from the Un coated chart. None have ever said, "You know, I would like to see PMS 187 in a U this time rather than a C"
 
It's true though. Like I posted earlier on another web site. One mans "good quality print" may not be the same as what I consider "a good quality print", much like "One mans experience is not the same as another."

I was being a bit gracious when saying that "MOST use C.  I have to say "most" due to the fact that I do not know for a fact that ALL or everyone (outside of my own experience) uses C.  It is my own extensive experience, that tells me that ALL or 99.9% of MY customers use C.  Last year alone, I completed a very large number of jobs (for other screen printers). I have been doing art for other screen print shops for well over 20 years.  All of those jobs combined, give me a very good reading on "what the average is.

I can tell everyone for sure that the average shop uses C.

The average small shop uses a PC rather than Mac.

The average large shop uses MAC.

The average large shop uses Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop.

The average graphics design department does not know what Corel Draw is but maybe they've heard of it.

They all have heard of Corel Painter but most Mac users don't know CorelPhoto Paint exist.

I can also tell you that most all design houses/departments think that ALL tee shirts are printed using CMYK no matter what garment color it is.

[Fresh Baked Printing]

I printed the 226U for the customer on white tees and they liked 'em. I used a scale to mix it and the color looked reeeeeal close to the 226C swatch I had. The 226U I mixed looked just ever so slightly "brighter" than the 226C swatch I had.
For some reason, all of the Pantone matches I've had to do have been for several shades of pink and green. Brighter colors requested in general.
The customer is a design firm and those peeps have eagle eyes for detail on anything graphic (typos not included).
Good customer. Good print. Good color match. Winning!

[Sbrem]

this has been a fun discussion. However, I'm a little surprised to hear the the 226U seems a little brighter than the 226C. I've been on vacation this week, so I can't wait to go in Monday and check out the Pantone Uncoated book against the Coated. I'll take a pic and post it. The best reference is the Pantone swatch books for sure. Making design firms happy can be difficult, but I've found that most are OK once they know you're on their side, and are trying to get them what they want. Dealing with folks who understand design, but not reproduction, is a bit like walking on eggshells, and it takes some open conversation to show them that you're not trying to pull the wool over their eyes, but may have limitations due to the process.

Steve