Image area, platen location and shirt loading on Autos

[ZooCity]

We've always loaded Ts so that the bottom edge of the collar is butted up against the platen edge or, all of the collar is off the platen.

Setting up my templates for the Gauntlet- following the manual and also using my own measurements -it looks like doing that would place the image 3.5" down from the collar.  Our standard is typically about 3" down and often higher. 

So, I figure we can achieve higher/lower than 3.5" from bottom of collar by:

• Sliding the platen location in.  But this means the squeegee will drop before hitting the platen and have to "bump up" over the platen lip.  Sounds rough.
• Loading past the bottom of the collar or allowing the shirt collar to load onto the platen. Easy but wrecks our current standard of "inches from bottom of collar".

I have a pretty alright system in place of rulers on platen arms, output templates, pre-reg, etc. to keep us on track without adjusting platens constantly.  I'd like to keep it that way.

What do you do to bring all this together consistently?

[Rockers]

Just out of curiosity but do you ever have to adjust the position depending on shirt size? Let`s say you bring up the print on smalls and keep it lower on the XLs?

[ebscreen]

Just out of curiosity but do you ever have to adjust the position depending on shirt size? Let`s say you bring up the print on smalls and keep it lower on the XLs?

Spec'ing that on our jobsheets would be an obnoxious nightmare and if anyone ever asked for it outright
we'd probably fire them.

That said we tend to fudge placement a bit when an order runs the gamut of sizes. Certain designs (wide short ones)
it's more important/noticeable than on others.

[ZooCity]

Yes, we adjust the placement considering the art, image size and garment size.  We use various reference points for this but the bottom of the collar is the most used one.  This is not spec'd out per order, we have in-house standard placements and most don't want to hear about it, unless it's a specialty location, then we indicate the reference point(s) and special locations are charged extra for that.

So do you guys typically load the collar onto the platen?  If so, does it work out alright v. keeping the collar off?

I guess that, and if squeegee stroke start prior to the platen is detrimental, are my questions here.

[bimmridder]

Just my opinion, but I would definitely make sure the squeegee comes down on the platen. Adjust how you load your garments if you have to. Again, just my opinion. (ever pop a 355-31 screen on a process job because someone set the prox wrong and squeegee started of the platen?)

[Homer]

 I agree with Dave here, I wouldn't let the squeegie start before it hits the platen, you will have trouble. I'm not too sure about your machine, but ours require a decent amount of pressure to clear the ink and would tear a screen rather quickly. You can't print as much as the chart says you can, the squeegie will travel 16", but that doesn't matter because the flood only goes 14" or so because of the gap between the two.  printing outside of the flood gives us less than satisfactory results so I try to maintain a 14" max rule on the old machine. now these are just my results - maybe we're set up wrong so trial and error may be the way to roll here....

[Inkworks]

While we try not to, we also don't have problems starting the squeegee off the platen.

We change shirt position for each size down, and if it's a left chest print, side to side. About 3/8" - 1/2" per size. It's just S.O.P. so there is nothing to document job to job. Jobs pulled to the bottom of the collar.

These show a manual platen, but we do the same on the auto.

[ZooCity]

I think I ought to avoid starting off platen with this press.  I've never used an air machine so don't know what to expect but we use all thin thread mesh. 

Yep, my measurements today came out to 14.75" tall print area on a GT under what I presume will be "normal" angles.

Inkworks, I copy all that.  I presume you meant that you load the top of the collar to the line?  Otherwise how would you know yer there?

I'm thinking lasers for this.  Platens stay in the same spot no matter what, up far enough to land the sq blade on them at any angle.  Bank of lasers suspended from the ceiling shooting on the load station to click on/off for different placement settings, load to the laser.  Seems more efficient than marking every platen in the house.

This is the only little beef I have so far with mixing up mfg machines, makes it hard to standardize.   

[Inkworks]

We mark the platens with permanent marker and it shows through the platen pre-mask just fine. We pull to the bottom of the collar, I have no idea why , that's how I was taught 20+ years ago and I've always just done it that way, now it's just natural to do so. It's not as hard as it sounds to see.

Print location is very important, we pretty much always print a shirt and try it on in the mirror to check and then go from there. When I was an employee learning, the bosses always hired a cute young gal to fold shirts and help around the shop for the summer, so they were the natural models for girly shirts. I always seemed to have trouble getting the print locations just right and often needed several fittings to get it right, and it wasn't my fault I used smalls for the fitting shirts..... Ahh the good old days...   

[Homer]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Screen-Printing-Equipment-Supplies-laser-guide-/251249106917?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7f9d1fe5

[244]

Yes, we adjust the placement considering the art, image size and garment size.  We use various reference points for this but the bottom of the collar is the most used one.  This is not spec'd out per order, we have in-house standard placements and most don't want to hear about it, unless it's a specialty location, then we indicate the reference point(s) and special locations are charged extra for that.

So do you guys typically load the collar onto the platen?  If so, does it work out alright v. keeping the collar off?

I guess that, and if squeegee stroke start prior to the platen is detrimental, are my questions here.

Sent you a PDF of the original grid for placement. That should help.

[ScreenFoo]

I occasionally have prints where I can't flood the image properly for a high back tag location without adjusting a bunch of stuff--unless I start off the platen edge.  I usually don't tape the shirt side where it hits, and never see wear marks from short runs, but I suppose the emulsion should cushion the mesh as well, assuming you coat to that point on the screen.  With them S threads, I  probably would do some extra taping.

I'd definitely agree it's best practice to start on platen if you can.

Having fun with that thing Zoo?   

[Binkspot]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Screen-Printing-Equipment-Supplies-laser-guide-/251249106917?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7f9d1fe5

Or you can just buy one of my models for $100 bucks less including shipping with four lasers your choice line, dot, cross or any combination of the three AC or battery powered. Custom units available with almost as many lasers, colors and styles as you want. 

Just saying

[broadway]

Here is a crude drawing of my platten placement on my 95 Gauntlet. I never move the plattens only the garment (vneck, ladies, youth...). The squeegee should land on the platten, not over it. You can have a good angle on the squeegee and it should not fall off with this position. With this platten placement measure 3 inches down and that is the top of most designs, measure 4 inches down and that is the top of most back designs. My left chest would be 3 inches down and 2 inches over from the center. Make sure the back screen holder is pushed all the way back, and the front have the registration guides at zero. Your screen should be almost centered in the screen holders.Your index fingers should be able to fit between the static frame and the ends of the inside of the screen holders. The most important thing is when you lower the frame holder feet that they land near the center of the frame. If you are doing tag lines on the back just make sure the flood stroke is clearing the image area. You can also adjust the shock absorber to give you more/less print stroke.

[ZooCity]

Thank y'all for the input! 

And Rich, thanks for the grid but I already worked ours up last night.  Jpeg here.  If anyone thinks it's so neat they want it I'll put the .ai and .eps up. It's v.1, nothing fancy.  You turn the layers on/off for various platens, gang placement, etc.  The reggies are fixed along the "A" line of our pin lock table.  So far it actually looks like it's going to work for both the G and the Anatol manual for locations but we'll have different loading spec on the G.

25x30 M3 roller frames and, presumably clamp adapters for us.  Pushes things around a little on the measurements.

Binkspot, I will be getting ahold of you about lazers in the next week or so.  Can you email me so I don't space it?

I think for wb/dc, no way in hell am I starting off platen.  Plastisol, maybe could get away with that.  Too much driving action + no off contact on the wb, I think it would wreck our tender screens in a hurry. 

Foo, the fun has yet to start- was hoping to run these 300 pcs of DC 2/1/1 on it today but air lines came in late and we gotta rock and roll on the manual.