SAATIchem Textile Phu Blue Emulsion

[brandon]

Hey People,
Anyone on here using this stuff? We have been using Murakami Aquasol HV for a long time with great results. I have been promised this needs no hardener application. If so it cuts out a step and saves time. Any truth to this? Of course we will be testing it but just thought I would ask. Thanks!

[ScreenPrinter123]

If anyone does use it -- please post the cost and exposure time, at least (if possible) in relation to chromablue or aquasol HV.  Thanks Brandon -- bought a gallon of MS Hardener last week...  Jerk.

[Inkworks]

We've been an Autotype 8000 shop for a while, but since I've been having difficulty reclaiming it in screens with fixer used for waterbase, I've bought in a sample of Aquasol HV to try. Our supplier says you can get by with it and no fixer, but suggests a 1/2 load or Diazo in it. We'll give it a go and I'll post results when I have them. I'd love to get away from Fixer if I can, I'd also love to be a 1 emulsion shop, but that might not be possible with the wide range of inks we use (Plastisol, WB/DC, Solvent base, 2-part and epoxy)

[Parker 1]

Have tried it with and without hardner.  Screens fell apart @ app 300prints with hardner.  Very good for half tone Plastisol did not llike it for WB/DC. 

It does not require Diazo and has a high solid content, I think 48 percent, but dont hold me to it.
We tested it along with CCIWR-25, WR-14, and Chromaline Dual Cure. 
Cure Times on Amaragraph150 in Light Units all 230 mesh coated 2X2 all with and without hardener

WR-25 80LTU
WR-14 40LTU
Chromaline 40LTU
PHU BLUE 28LTU (tried also @ 40LTU but lost too much detail)

WR-14 is the best we tested for both durability and half tones with WB/DC, Same as WR-25 just beat it out with shorter burn time. 

Hope this helps

[Colin]

Brandon,

We tried it here and, like Parker, had lousy results.

Kelly had talked with the chemist at Saati and he said you had to overexpose your screens for the water resistance to kick in....  We have had much better results with the Aquaol HV.

My only issue with the HV right now is that it has very little tensile strength.  If you are not at proper off contact then you can get wear marks along the squeegee edge resulting in breakthrough.  Normally, not a problem..... but if you have a hiccup here and there on off contact adjustments then you see it real quick... sigh.

[ZooCity]

My only issue with the HV right now is that it has very little tensile strength.  If you are not at proper off contact then you can get wear marks along the squeegee edge resulting in breakthrough.  Normally, not a problem..... but if you have a hiccup here and there on off contact adjustments then you see it real quick... sigh.

This is pretty much the only downer with HV.  Sharp squeegees exacerbate the issue. 

I only see it on our thicker coated plastisol screens, along the edge, even though our blades have rounded corners.  Nothing a couple pieces of tape can't take care of.  Luckily the wb/dc screens are coated thinner and printed on contact or it would be a deal breaker for that application.

[brandon]

Kelly had talked with the chemist at Saati and he said you had to overexpose your screens for the water resistance to kick in....  We have had much better results with the Aquaol HV.

Thank you everybody for the info! Good to know. Of course we will give it a shot in a couple of weeks so we will see what happens.

Colin - yeah, I talked to the Saati guy as well and he told me to post expose the screen at twice the exposure time and then you do not need any hardener. Seems kind of crazy. I would rather use our Aquasol as we do and apply hardener when needed.

But as any new product I will give it a shot. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't.

[GKitson]

We did evaluations on the PHU with 50% solids and found we had reclaim problems until we exposed it correctly, I was also coating it way too thick with a 1+2 coating, we were getting EOM of 100% plus.  With 1+1 coating and proper exposure we are now getting EOM of 28-30 % consistantly and easy predictiable reclaim.  Double your exposure time as a starting point and see what happens.
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[Colin]

Brandon,

You may get better screens than we did now that you have a sexy new exposure unit.  I have learned recently that a 1200W metal halide (Nuarc 3140) is low end for getting the best waterbase/DC resistance out of a screen.  Also, let me know is you see a weird mottling on the squeegee side of the screen... we see it right after a screen has been dried after coating.  First time I have ever seen that.  Want to know if it was us or something else...

Greg,

Are you coating with the round side of the scoop?  I never got eom like that (100%+) when I tested it  2/2 2/1 with the sharp side.  But everyone's techniques are different.  What are your waterbase/DC runs like?  Have you found a breakdown point?  What's your exposure unit/bulb?

[IntegrityShirts]

We did evaluations on the PHU with 50% solids and found we had reclaim problems until we exposed it correctly, I was also coating it way too thick with a 1+2 coating, we were getting EOM of 100% plus.  With 1+1 coating and proper exposure we are now getting EOM of 28-30 % consistantly and easy predictiable reclaim.  Double your exposure time as a starting point and see what happens.

Just going to bump this really old thread as I just ordered a case of the textil PHU blue. Saati sent me a sample quart and I do like. Much thicker than Aquasol HV goes on smoother with a 1/1 coat. Anything more than that and you're talking super thick stencil. Exposes faster than Aquasol.  I haven't done any significant WB testing but it's good enough to give it a shot this winter as opposed to Aquasol turning into crackily glass, I'm hoping the textil won't crack.

I'll test on my next wb job, but it'll only be about 50 pieces. I can usually get a good idea though in that time how it would hold up for a few hundred more.

[ericheartsu]

We did evaluations on the PHU with 50% solids and found we had reclaim problems until we exposed it correctly, I was also coating it way too thick with a 1+2 coating, we were getting EOM of 100% plus.  With 1+1 coating and proper exposure we are now getting EOM of 28-30 % consistantly and easy predictiable reclaim.  Double your exposure time as a starting point and see what happens.

Just going to bump this really old thread as I just ordered a case of the textil PHU blue. Saati sent me a sample quart and I do like. Much thicker than Aquasol HV goes on smoother with a 1/1 coat. Anything more than that and you're talking super thick stencil. Exposes faster than Aquasol.  I haven't done any significant WB testing but it's good enough to give it a shot this winter as opposed to Aquasol turning into crackily glass, I'm hoping the textil won't crack.

I'll test on my next wb job, but it'll only be about 50 pieces. I can usually get a good idea though in that time how it would hold up for a few hundred more.

We use the PHU 2 Red, and it's awesome. The PHU is awesome too, esp. for DC/WB, but exposes faster than the PHU2