What have you printed lately?

[Orion]

Very nice Pierre!

[Dottonedan]

Nice Pierre.

[Underbase37]

Top notch. Nice work.

Murphy

[3Deep]

your going to be printing a whole bunch of those, very nice job!!!!

[SERJ]

Printing on synthetics,Magnaprint Underbase Grey + Magnaprint High Build

Can you share information on  profile and mesh selection for this job?

Underbase Grey mesh 62,Magnaprint High Build mesh 43  stencil 100 microns

[SERJ]

Print for Magna, three colors 90 Lpi, 120 mesh

[abchung]

amazing


Sent from my SM-G900H using Tapatalk

[SERJ]

Magnaprint Discharge AB AW, 6 colors

[kingscreen]

WHOA!  SERJ,  that print is mind blowing!!

[SERJ]

Thank you.... I know

[blue moon]

first for us, I did the design and the seps! It's still a little dark, I had to leave before they were done tweaking, but am pretty happy with it. Crappy phone pix, it looks much better in person. . .

pierre

[3Deep]

Pretty nice print and design there P, y'all don't get to carried away up there now you only won one  LOL

[Orion]

Holy Cow! Serj that is some mighty fine work there!

Looks like a pretty successful first, Pierre!

We put this one out today, 7 color sim on red all plasti print...

[Full-SpectrumSeparator]

The attached pictures are from a very basic rudimentary test print,  nothing special and it came out terrible really, but it is just the first time I have even tested this experimental technique, as well as the first time testing things like this at the shop I'm currently working to begin calibrating and linearizing for them.

 I printed this earlier today at work just playing around and trying to show the lowest-possible common-denominator printing method and with absolutely no calibration or linearization done, but something that works on any shirt color with the fewest screens possible.    It was a bit surprising but still terrible based on many factors, however it gives me a lot of information to work with in starting the process of calibration and modification...  the registration was even pretty far off, and upon scanning the print results I was able to take the sep composite and simulate very closely how it printed based on the ink and shirt and registration and dot-gain variables.    There could be simple front-end image adjustment compensations or a full-spectrum step-by-step linearization and calibration performed, and then other ink and color and print techniques ramped up while creating SOPs and WYSIWYG models. 

Just thought I would share it as a fun little experiment, but the simulation of what I got helps a great deal in showing how much registration and color values and dot-gain / tone compression etc all play a factor,  it is just that the separation methods and halftone generation of the base and colors are also just as important as the production variables.   This print is like a test of absolute-colorimetric non-device-specific no-rip exact-math-separation with DIY hybrid-halftone generation techniques.    I'm just surprised it even came out like this with nothing calibrated or linearized and even with the registration as far off as it was, and using a low-end consumer inkjet film and printer, on wooden 230 mesh frames, manual printed.   

This is not a "show off" print,  it is more like saying this is the worst I will get with this process if I don't do anything but just print it as-is and my registration and other variables are not perfect or are below more acceptable tolerances.     Taking the results and then being able to simulate on the computer how it printed from the separations and halftones is a key element in going back through and starting to create compensation-variables to get the print result as close towards the target original as possible with the particular inks and substrate and printing techniques or tolerances in variables involved.     Simply applying a general image curve compensation to the original could go a long way in improving the final result even without other calibration or linearization involved, but it really does help to know at each step in the process what is happening to my data and my intentions for it, so I can calculate the standard deviations and apply corrective measures.    More to come.

-improper film used, inkjet transparency leaves splotchy areas in solids, but halftones and details still exposed ok, need to actually test it with some waterproof inkjet film, not the store-bought transparencies i had at home. 
-70 lpi,  rgb to cmy with full cmy black generation, and halftone base with full hybrid-overprint-interlock at 1200 dpi, no rip.
-230 yellow mesh, wooden frames, manual printed on 4-color press
-Base white print-flash-print-flash
-Yellow flood and print
-Magenta flood and print
-Cyan flood and print twice, -- colors were all wet on wet. - the cyan was hit twice because the registration I think was throwing off the already-non-neutral black you get from CMY process, and hitting it twice pushed it from the orange/yellow to a more neutral looking black... but still you get ugly shiny blacks with this kind of printing, although I'm trying to find out just how neutral and registration-controlled I can get the 3 screens to work out along with the base,  this allows a 4-color press to print full-spectrum with white and transparency on any shirt color, so it is at least a good technique to know and be able to use and also try to calibrate to get the best you can from it.

  I think with just a little effort this can be improved significantly and could possibly become a print option for clients wanting the fewest screens while having full-color graphics and going on multiple shirt colors from darks to lights.... but simply adding the 5th screen surely helps because it is really a pain in traditional process as well to have all 3 screens make up the black and grey generation, and so while this CMY process in my techniques has full black generation (no other way to get black without it),  on cmyk process for screenprint I would do zero black generation of the CMY and have black and white perform their own greyscales, where the colors only come in where there are actual saturations to be produced.  When I get around to a CMYK plus base  I will show those, as well as some calibrated test prints too.... again this was just playing around really and seeing what I would get from the CMY process, because I've never really seen it done before or tried it out.   Not bad, but not really passable either... needs a lot of work but remember this is with zero linearization or calibration or even original-image adjustment applied.   

[Orion]

Six color sim all plasti print...