What have you printed lately?

[mimosatexas]

It may just be the photos, but in the transition from the red to white in the car the pattern of dots looks random instead of uniform.  Here is a quick comparison of patterns: http://www.mattgrum.com/photo_se/dithering_vs_halftoning.png

The black and white one on the left is a standard halftone output while the black and white one on the right is a diffusion pattern.  As far as I understand it, the random pattern is used in index seps where the dots are all the same size, but simprocess doesn't use this pattern.  I feel like I keep seeing this pattern being used in transitions on the prints in this thread and just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.

[GraphicDisorder]

Shelly would have to chime in on if she has changed something, but I don't think so. 

[CastleKing]

14 colors, 280 & 355 mesh, 55lpi

[Parker 1]

Some good stuff, I have always liked the beach/surf designs. 

One we are running this morning.  6 colors 230-330 mesh @ 55lpi

[blue moon]

Some good stuff, I have always liked the beach/surf designs. 

One we are running this morning.  6 colors 230-330 mesh @ 55lpi

that's sharp Chris. It looks like the actual metallic ink!

pierre

[CastleKing]

Beautiful print Chris! Well done.

[alan802]

That Ron Jon print is probably one of the more difficult prints posted here in a while. 

Parker, that is a fantastic print man.  Do you mind sharing the ink colors and print sequence?

[mimosatexas]

Seriously!  The faux metallic look is something I could use on a lot of jobs...

[blue moon]

14 colors, 280 & 355 mesh, 55lpi

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very, very nice!!!

now spill it, how many colors (8?), setup . . .

pierre

[blue moon]

Here's an "old school" we printed today. Same setup as the one few posts above, but only one stroke on ubase. Ran at about 450/hour.

pierre

[mimosatexas]

I'm curious about how you approach the grunge background.  Do you do a relatively solid base with areas knocked out here and there for the darker scratches and shadows, then a relatively solid green layer which relies mostly on the varied underbase for tone with the exception of the lighter scratches, then highlight white on some of the lightest scratches?  As an alternative, would you do a halftoned underbase for most of it but with solid areas for the lighter scratches?  I have started playing with more varied underbases or even multiple bases and using more transparent top inks to create multiple tones, but was curious how common that approach was...I had great luck with it on a job recently where it saved me two screens and still created a really awesome varied yellow with highlights and lowlights all with just the base and a yellow that was mixed down with 50% process clear.

[Parker 1]

Thanks guys for all the compliments.

Run Order/colors
1.DC White 225 (S mesh)
Flash (1-1.5 sec)
2.Wilflex print BLACK (330 S)
3.113 or 123C Epic (305)
4.185C Epic (305)
5.Wilflex Turquoise / with ALOT of Soft Hand base (305)
6.Wilflex Quick White (230)

Ran at 48doz/hr

[mimosatexas]

Wait, are you printing plastisol on top of a straight out of the can white discharge base?  Have you wash tested?

[Parker 1]

Wait, are you printing plastisol on top of a straight out of the can white discharge base?  Have you wash tested?

NO, Mix of DBase and DWhite, sorry should have been more specific.  Been doing it over a year now with no issues.  Now that I think of it 90% of our jobs we run a DC under base. 

Chris

[Underbase37]

All this looks awesome. I wish I had some of this fun stuff to do, fairly boring stuff for us right now.

Murphy37