Favorite M&R Style Squeegees and Floods?

[Action1]

We first introduced Winged Flood Bars for use on Precision Hydraulic Ovals in 1991. I believe that it was the very first product that we introduced. Since then, we have made numerous changes in an effort to improve the design and respond to our customers requests.

 Last year - we changed the design to make it more cleanup friendly. A new extrusion for the top was designed and the bottom stainless steel wing was redesigned to enable it to mount to the front of the assembly. Are the comments I'm seeing relevant to winged flood bars purchased in the last year?

We feel that the our design provides strength to the bottom flood edge and makes it very straight and keeps it that way. If anyone cares to make a suggestion as to how it can be improved, we are always listening. We do sincerely appreciate your feedback and pay very close attention to what we are told. It's always the best way we have of continuing our improvements.

Here's what we can do that will accommodate your requests for an attack angle on the flood edge. Does everyone agree with the attack angle at 30 degrees?

[mk162]

the only problem with the angle at 30 is it cuts down on your stroke because the flood is so much further back than the squeegee.  You'll have a couple inch gap between the squeegee and the flood.

[Action1]

the only problem with the angle at 30 is it cuts down on your stroke because the  of an inchflood is so much further back than the squeegee.  You'll have a couple inch gap between the squeegee and the flood.

That is true - but I just measured the difference in my model to be only 3/8". It will therefore impact stroke length by less than half of an inch.

[mk162]

wow, it looks like much more than that.

[alan802]

the only problem with the angle at 30 is it cuts down on your stroke because the flood is so much further back than the squeegee.  You'll have a couple inch gap between the squeegee and the flood.

Not if you use smiling jacks, manny's and dr j's   Contrary to that though is a larger ink well is better from what I've been reading.  I don't know or understand the specifics yet but I will soon.

[ScreenPrinter123]

We first introduced Winged Flood Bars for use on Precision Hydraulic Ovals in 1991. I believe that it was the very first product that we introduced. Since then, we have made numerous changes in an effort to improve the design and respond to our customers requests.

 Last year - we changed the design to make it more cleanup friendly. A new extrusion for the top was designed and the bottom stainless steel wing was redesigned to enable it to mount to the front of the assembly. Are the comments I'm seeing relevant to winged flood bars purchased in the last year?

We feel that the our design provides strength to the bottom flood edge and makes it very straight and keeps it that way. If anyone cares to make a suggestion as to how it can be improved, we are always listening. We do sincerely appreciate your feedback and pay very close attention to what we are told. It's always the best way we have of continuing our improvements.

Here's what we can do that will accommodate your requests for an attack angle on the flood edge. Does everyone agree with the attack angle at 30 degrees?

We have over a dozen of the Action floodbars (most recent design) and they clean up very easily.  I have not seen the M&R floodbar (have a set of ink traps) but am curious to know why it cleans up better than the Action because I do not see how the Action could be designed to clean up any easier.

[jsheridan]

Cleanup has never been my issue, the design of the blade was.

The job of the flood bar is to fill the open area of your design and the best way that is done, is to roll the ink forward into the mesh. When ink is just pushed across a screen, which 90% of printers do, the open areas don't get filled and the squeegee has to work overtime to fill and sheer the ink.

That new design looks good but you'll need to refine the angle a bit, seems to steep.

[Action1]

Cleanup has never been my issue, the design of the blade was.

The job of the flood bar is to fill the open area of your design and the best way that is done, is to roll the ink forward into the mesh. When ink is just pushed across a screen, which 90% of printers do, the open areas don't get filled and the squeegee has to work overtime to fill and sheer the ink.

That new design looks good but you'll need to refine the angle a bit, seems to steep.

Thank you John. The angle is shown as 30 degree. Perhaps 15 or 20 then? That can be done. I need to know the perfect ( best ) attack angle. It's not practical to offer these in more than one angle.

[inkman996]

It looks like you have to mount the winged FB using screws, that is going to be the worse area for clean up. I would try using that strong double sided tape they use to mount palettes to extrusions, this way no protruding nuts and bolts. Its not extreme pressure anyways being placed on the FB so a strong double sided tape should work.

[Action1]

It looks like you have to mount the winged FB using screws, that is going to be the worse area for clean up. I would try using that strong double sided tape they use to mount palettes to extrusions, this way no protruding nuts and bolts. Its not extreme pressure anyways being placed on the FB so a strong double sided tape should work.

Thank you for the suggestion sir. We did try that. It worked great until it was time for cleanup. The solvents ate away the tape. So - we tried different tapes - they all failed after a few cleanups. As much as I would love to do it that way - it's not trustworthy. It works on the pallets because there's never solvent coming in contact with the bracket .

Please keep the suggestions coming - always.

[inkman996]

It looks like you have to mount the winged FB using screws, that is going to be the worse area for clean up. I would try using that strong double sided tape they use to mount palettes to extrusions, this way no protruding nuts and bolts. Its not extreme pressure anyways being placed on the FB so a strong double sided tape should work.

Thank you for the suggestion sir. We did try that. It worked great until it was time for cleanup. The solvents ate away the tape. So - we tried different tapes - they all failed after a few cleanups. As much as I would love to do it that way - it's not trustworthy. It works on the pallets because there's never solvent coming in contact with the bracket .

Please keep the suggestions coming - always.

Good point I didnt consider that, not practical for you guys but in our case I would still use the tape since we dont use solvent on our FB's no real need to since they wipe off pretty easy.

[ScreenPrinter123]

Cleanup has never been my issue, the design of the blade was.

The job of the flood bar is to fill the open area of your design and the best way that is done, is to roll the ink forward into the mesh. When ink is just pushed across a screen, which 90% of printers do, the open areas don't get filled and the squeegee has to work overtime to fill and sheer the ink.

That new design looks good but you'll need to refine the angle a bit, seems to steep.

It is the case that the winged flood bar is not very effective at filling the stencil.  This is where the ink trap may be better suited since, since it attaches to the squeegee you can use a Dr. J or regular squeegee for the flood.  Is the M&R winged floodbar able to better fill the stencil?  I have not seen one and don't know if it is similar in design to the Action one.

[jsheridan]

Cleanup has never been my issue, the design of the blade was.

The job of the flood bar is to fill the open area of your design and the best way that is done, is to roll the ink forward into the mesh. When ink is just pushed across a screen, which 90% of printers do, the open areas don't get filled and the squeegee has to work overtime to fill and sheer the ink.

That new design looks good but you'll need to refine the angle a bit, seems to steep.

Thank you John. The angle is shown as 30 degree. Perhaps 15 or 20 then? That can be done. I need to know the perfect ( best ) attack angle. It's not practical to offer these in more than one angle.

That will fall on you guys.. some R&D with just enough angle to get that ink rolling is what you need.

[Screened Gear]

Action,

Since your making changes, make all the nuts and bolts on the floods stainless. Since I have been doing waterbase all mine have rusted. Its not a big problem but the more they rust the more chance it will be. I will be switching them out soon.

I like the new design but that two bend angle will need some serious care and then quality control to make sure that both sides are level to the screen surface. If they are not QCed the floods will be hard to use, especially for the guys that hard flood.

I have a few designs that I am going to tinker with this year. One of them is going to be very easy to make and will most likely cost me all of $5.

[Action1]

Action,

Since your making changes, make all the nuts and bolts on the floods stainless. Since I have been doing waterbase all mine have rusted. Its not a big problem but the more they rust the more chance it will be. I will be switching them out soon.

I like the new design but that two bend angle will need some serious care and then quality control to make sure that both sides are level to the screen surface. If they are not QCed the floods will be hard to use, especially for the guys that hard flood.

I have a few designs that I am going to tinker with this year. One of them is going to be very easy to make and will most likely cost me all of $5.

Hi Jon:

Thank you for offering your advice. We switched all of our fasteners to stainless a few years ago. The ones you have must be older than that. The acorn nuts also are nickle plated and should hold up ok.
I do agree that there are QC concerns with the multiple angles.