Triangle Ink Low Bleed Inks Item #: TI1701 - trouble curing?

[Dottonedan]

I am using a clam shell to heat set (cure) some inks.

The ink is Triangle Ink Low Bleed Inks Item #: TI1701

I am curing it on a  65% poly 35% cotton Dickie dress shirt.

It's only a pocket size print and the logo was printed elsewhere and I am trying to add in a small square to the art.  I did that with a small sample squeegee and looks perfect. The application is good. Smooth and slightly ever so thicker than the original print done on an auto.

The think is, using this ink, (That is designed as a LB for cotton/poly, and curing on this clam shell heat press,  I am not sure it's curing.  I started out at 330 degrees, (not clamping down), but about 1/16 inch away and for a period of at first, 30 seconds.  Then on to 40 seconds. three times for 40 seconds on the first shirt. I think that one is fully cured.

The 2nd shirt, not so much.  It was dry to the touch, but soft. So I could indent it with a fingernail. Then I cured it again..2 times now at 40 seconds each.  So, I thought maybe the distance and the brief lift was delaying or interrupting the full cure.  So, I took it to a full 60 seconds.  It's dry to the touch, but still, I can now move it around with a fingernail and can see a that I have a lifted area now from doing so. It's sort of dry flaky texture...I smashed it back down and closed my eyes. Then came to type.

This 2nd shirt may have a thicker application of that ink. But, dang, it should be cured by

Thoughts?
 
 

[Frog]

I'd try a sample scrap clamped lightly at 20 seconds, and wash it.

I really think that you need the actual contact because 330 hovering above is not going to make the entire ink layer 330 or so like it needs to be. Otherwise, crank it up!

[Dottonedan]

It's now sort of a dry flaky cake batter or childrens playdo kind of texture and certainly not bonding.


I don't have any additional items to sample it on and wash. It's fix it right or start all over again and I really REALY do not have the time on this one to do that.

I'll bump it up to 360 degrees. Is that too hot?  Will it re-melt my surround existing print? I've never seen a re-mail.t Will that eventually cure again if it does?

Maybe it's not quite reaching a good point of heat long enough.

360 at 60 seconds?

[Dottonedan]

I'd try a sample scrap clamped lightly at 20 seconds, and wash it.

I really think that you need the actual contact because 330 hovering above is not going to make the entire ink layer 330 or so like it needs to be. Otherwise, crank it up!

Ok. I gotchya now. A random sample scrap. I'll go grab something.


You can call me if you like and hold my hand while I go trough this or check back frequently so I don't lose touch with the outside world.

[Frog]

Why are you even curing this way? can't you just run the whole thing down a dryer?

As for the re-melting of an existing print, once it's cured, it's cured.
That's not to say that you can't screw up an existing print in a heat press, but I often combine transfers and prints, and for them, the press is often at 380!

Then again, lights on darks are a little tougher as you could lose some opacity.

[Dottonedan]

Why are you even curing this way? can't you just run the whole thing down a dryer?

As for the re-melting of an existing print, once it's cured, it's cured.
That's not to say that you can't screw up an existing print in a heat press, but I often combine transfers and prints, and for them, the press is often at 380!

Then again, lights on darks are a little tougher as you could lose some opacity.

Ugh.   I have no dryer that works at the moment. Working on getting that Fixed. Needs re-wired and some other things.

I have a nice Vastex flash...but realized that I don't have the right outlet down here at the shop and couldn't locate an adaptor tonight. I'm not printing my own stuff yet in house till I get some equipment fixed.

I did a few swipes of the squeegee with soem various thicknesses and all CLAMPED down at 345 degrees...for 60 seconds and that seemed to cure every thickness example properly.

A few stretch test shows good results. Good rubbery smooth white print and the shirt pulls away and distorts but the ink maintains it's shape with no image impact. Smooth and rubbery.


That test was on 100% cotton. So, I'm wondering, is it the poly?  Is it the material? Thick coarse ply. Ugly stiff shirts.


I'm afraid of clamping down on them because of the buttons and existing print. The print is thinner than what I'm doing but the white is almost as thick. I'm not talking super thick. Looks like it was done on a 156-190 mesh or something. but I guess I gotta try clamping.

[Frog]

Man, can't you just take 'em to another shop?

Now you bring up buttons! You're making this complicated. If I can't use a smaller press and/or hang the buttons off the side to miss them, or, then I use a teflon pillow and a rubber application sheet (provides a little protection).

[Dottonedan]

No,  Can't take them to another shop.


This was done by another shop and they had an error where the white separation had (one little square) that was left as a computer white and not a custom white. So it was not caught during approval (since it looked correct) on screen.


When it got printed to films, that open square did not print on the films and nobody caught it in the print process. So. when I got it, I noticed it and I just figured I'd print it here myself.  Pricey shirts to do over and timing was tight.


Here is my little mask (screen) and the print results.   My first (in house print job). LOL.  Luckily I had some white LB ink here and that clam shell.

[tpitman]

Take a couple of thicknesses of illustration board to raise up an edge past the buttons so you can have an area to "print" on. Get some kraft paper  to cover the print and lower the heatpress to contact the shirt with handheld pressure. Gel it first like you've been doing so the ink doesn't spread out wet on the paper. Do it on a scrap to make sure nothing goes haywire. A sheet of transfer paper would be excellent to cover with too, if you had a sheet laying around.

[Frog]

Baking parchment is a great substitute for the transfer paper.

[Dottonedan]

I already had one of those Teflon sheets from when I was doing DTG prints. That worked great.


I also have the rubber blanket, but don't think that one is used for laying over top ink. It's probably for the pre treatment. Cover that pre treatment with the rubber blanket till all water evaporate. I think that was what it was used for. Been a while.


I was considering starting to offer the vinyl letters and by happenstance, a local printer has one from another shop he purchased. He's wanting to get rid of it. It's older but works. $500.00 for a 40" wide printer, but I'm sure it would be more waste than profit.


Pierre mentioned you can get one for those vinyl plotters for $300 on the low end and a couple thousand on the high. I've never realized they were that economical. I might get one.

[inkman996]

Use the rubber blanket on vinyl numbers/names to take some of the gloss off.

[Dottonedan]

Cool idea. Would have never thought of it.  Good tip.. Thanks.