Author Topic: film: waterproof vs non  (Read 6793 times)

Offline Homer

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Re: film: waterproof vs non
« Reply #15 on: February 16, 2013, 01:13:53 PM »
the least amount of dot gain when doing half tones if you have not linearized your printer or cant linearize your printer.

This can't be stressed enough. Stock Epson printers, heck any brand tend to have heavy gain in the midtone range and fill solid above 75% as their main use was not intended for what we as printers need, accurate and perfectly produced halftones to burn a screen vs art on the wall.

Anyone who is even thinking of printing 1/2 tones really needs to calibrate and Linearize their RIP settings.

Accurip and Wasatch users, maybe other rips, allow you to enter tonal readings to produce accurate halftones from YOUR printer.
My old Epson R1800 was producing and exposing 3% tones on a 272 mesh.

You need a densitometer, go buy one or ask around to borrow as some have one.

color me stupid but -how do you go about this? I have accurip and 4800, I'm not really too sure where to start. Do you basically run off films with different percentages, give them a print and compare?
...keep doing what you're doing, you'll only get what you've got...


Offline RICK STEFANICK

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Re: film: waterproof vs non
« Reply #16 on: February 16, 2013, 01:15:06 PM »
We primarily use our Epson r1800 for film positives and stock Epson oem ink. The film brad sells(wp) works super good. I know there are several other guys on the board here that use his same product with great results. Whatever your choice of film please consider brad as your supplier. He is a small business and is always grateful for our orders. As john said its not always about price. I'm a unpaid spokesperson. Lol
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Offline Chadwick

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Re: film: waterproof vs non
« Reply #17 on: February 16, 2013, 04:20:50 PM »
I switched back to non-waterproof some time back.
Silkjet stuff.
Takes longer for ink to fully cure, but plan accordingly.
( if you're in a bind you can use them right away, but it will wreck the positive in the process )

The waterproof was skidding in the feeder after time due to the coating transferring to the wheels ( I assume )
The waterproof's coating can get damaged when taping a positive down to a platten, and somehow just isn't durable.

That's what my experience was with it. Used 2 packages, so..200 sheets?

Don't really have any complaints about the non-wp. Silkjet stuff again.
I use stock 3000 ink.
Films printed years ago, and re-used regularly seem to stand up just fine.

I don't use a RIP per se, but there is a tone-curve adjustment in SimRip,
and I've tweaked the driver some.

Offline JBLUE

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Re: film: waterproof vs non
« Reply #18 on: February 17, 2013, 01:09:59 PM »
the least amount of dot gain when doing half tones if you have not linearized your printer or cant linearize your printer.

This can't be stressed enough. Stock Epson printers, heck any brand tend to have heavy gain in the midtone range and fill solid above 75% as their main use was not intended for what we as printers need, accurate and perfectly produced halftones to burn a screen vs art on the wall.

Anyone who is even thinking of printing 1/2 tones really needs to calibrate and Linearize their RIP settings.

Accurip and Wasatch users, maybe other rips, allow you to enter tonal readings to produce accurate halftones from YOUR printer.
My old Epson R1800 was producing and exposing 3% tones on a 272 mesh.

You need a densitometer, go buy one or ask around to borrow as some have one.

color me stupid but -how do you go about this? I have accurip and 4800, I'm not really too sure where to start. Do you basically run off films with different percentages, give them a print and compare?

Jay it really depends on RIP that your are running. They print out a test film from 0-100% tonal range squares. You then use a desnitometer to adjust the different percentages to bring them to their true percentages. For those that have not linear used their printers will be surprised out how far of they are as far as halftone density. For the guys that think they are holding a 5% dot right now will be pissed when they see that dot was truly more like a 15-20% dot on a densitometer.  Once you linearize and see a real 5% dot you will be searching for a high detail emulsion.
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Offline Homer

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Re: film: waterproof vs non
« Reply #19 on: February 17, 2013, 01:51:46 PM »
thanks blue, I'm going to check this out some more. I see all the settings in accurip but I never really touched anything. Once I align my print head on the 4800, I'll see if I can get this done too.
...keep doing what you're doing, you'll only get what you've got...

Offline RICK STEFANICK

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Re: film: waterproof vs non
« Reply #20 on: February 17, 2013, 03:09:25 PM »
I switched back to non-waterproof some time back.
Silkjet stuff.
Takes longer for ink to fully cure, but plan accordingly.
( if you're in a bind you can use them right away, but it will wreck the positive in the process )

The waterproof was skidding in the feeder after time due to the coating transferring to the wheels ( I assume )
The waterproof's coating can get damaged when taping a positive down to a platten, and somehow just isn't durable.

That's what my experience was with it. Used 2 packages, so..200 sheets?

Don't really have any complaints about the non-wp. Silkjet stuff again.
I use stock 3000 ink.
Films printed years ago, and re-used regularly seem to stand up just fine.

I don't use a RIP per se, but there is a tone-curve adjustment in SimRip,
and I've tweaked the driver some.
Just curious as to why you would ever be taping a positive to the pallet?
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Offline Chadwick

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Re: film: waterproof vs non
« Reply #21 on: February 17, 2013, 05:25:54 PM »
Just curious as to why you would ever be taping a positive to the pallet?

That's how I align the job.

Offline RICK STEFANICK

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Re: film: waterproof vs non
« Reply #22 on: February 17, 2013, 08:45:53 PM »
Ok ..don't u find that more time consuming and counter productive than other ways of press set up? And the fact that your valuable film is on the production floor?
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Offline noiseloops

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Re: film: waterproof vs non
« Reply #23 on: February 17, 2013, 09:00:01 PM »
We primarily use our Epson r1800 for film positives and stock Epson oem ink. The film brad sells(wp) works super good. I know there are several other guys on the board here that use his same product with great results. Whatever your choice of film please consider brad as your supplier. He is a small business and is always grateful for our orders. As john said its not always about price. I'm a unpaid spokesperson. Lol

hi RStefanick, was wondering is the setup on the Epson r1800 easy and good? have an opening to probably get a used one at about 120bux. wondering if its a worthy investment as i'm just starting out.


Offline RICK STEFANICK

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Re: film: waterproof vs non
« Reply #24 on: February 18, 2013, 11:33:08 AM »
We primarily use our Epson r1800 for film positives and stock Epson oem ink. The film brad sells(wp) works super good. I know there are several other guys on the board here that use his same product with great results. Whatever your choice of film please consider brad as your supplier. He is a small business and is always grateful for our orders. As john said its not always about price. I'm a unpaid spokesperson. Lol

hi RStefanick, was wondering is the setup on the Epson r1800 easy and good? have an opening to probably get a used one at about 120bux. wondering if its a worthy investment as i'm just starting out.
this is like my 5th one and we use it everyday with screeners choice rip..It works good enough for what we are producing.. the stock epson ink works great with the waterproof film sold by maverick graphics.whatever you do stay with a inkjet.. the epson 1430 is also a good option and new those babys are in the 300 range.. there are several pros on this forumn using those.  as far as set-up they are very simple as any desktop printer..  thanks
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Offline sportsshoppe

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Re: film: waterproof vs non
« Reply #25 on: February 18, 2013, 03:03:05 PM »
You have to adjust your droplet weight.
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Offline JBLUE

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Re: film: waterproof vs non
« Reply #26 on: February 18, 2013, 04:18:01 PM »
On Accurip got to File and click on droplet weight (Density) Test print. Once it prints you will need to look at the film and determine the section that lays down the least amount of ink that produces the darkest (dense) print. You will see some of them too light all the way to almost dripping off the film. You want to pick the one with the least amount of ink that will get you a dark enough print with the least amount of dot gain. It is still not as good as linearizing but it will clean up the mid tone range that tends to fill in on press.
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Offline RICK STEFANICK

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Re: film: waterproof vs non
« Reply #27 on: February 18, 2013, 10:06:53 PM »
We have not with the screeners choice rip. Jerrid that developed it was on my system though and set everything. It prints clean and absolutely dense.
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Offline sportsshoppe

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Re: film: waterproof vs non
« Reply #28 on: February 19, 2013, 01:20:16 PM »
FastRip 9.0 came with my printer, is there any way to size the droplets within that program? I have looked but have had little luck. Thanks

Offline RICK STEFANICK

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Re: film: waterproof vs non
« Reply #29 on: February 19, 2013, 04:46:42 PM »
FastRip 9.0 came with my printer, is there any way to size the droplets within that program? I have looked but have had little luck. Thanks
The only settings with that are single doeble and triple density. with process work single will probably get you best results
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