Shur-loc EZ Frame Conversion for Static Alums?

[bimmridder]

Has anyone bought this new product and used it yet?  It basically converts all of your static aluminums into the EZ frame system.  There is not a real good pic of the product and not much info on the shur-loc website (not a big fan of the shurloc website, it drives me nuts) but the concept is very simple and seems like it would work great.  I have about 25 bare frames sitting around and if I can turn them into a high tension screen for half the price of a normal EZ frame, then it's a no brainer.  I am going to purchase some murakami 330 panels today so I might just buy one of the conversion kits and try one out.  Just wondering if anyone has tried out this product yet?

[Big Frank Sports]

How do these compare to the Panel Frames that came out last year?

Frank

[Sbrem]

I looked over my frames, and we have our holes for the cups tapped dead center, leaving no room for adjustment, but my screen guy suggested tapping the new holes for a machine screw instead of a sheet metal screw. Add a little glue maybe for extra security, and I think we'd have a winner. Maybe add a thin piece of metal to the outside of the conversion bar to drill through, adding material for the machine screw threads without extending the conversion bar any. MHM's have the flexibility for that due to the gas pistons on the rear clamp.

Steve

[shurloc]

@Sbrem - You only have the holes on one short side of your frame, right? If you are dead center drilled on your cups, then you would only have about 3/8" to move up to mount the new screws... I would suggest rotating to the opposite side and remounting there. That gives you a completely clean side to mount to and the side that currently has the holes would get covered by the angle and sealed with the silicone...

[blue moon]

@Sbrem - You only have the holes on one short side of your frame, right? If you are dead center drilled on your cups, then you would only have about 3/8" to move up to mount the new screws... I would suggest rotating to the opposite side and remounting there. That gives you a completely clean side to mount to and the side that currently has the holes would get covered by the angle and sealed with the silicone...

the wholes are on both sides . . .

[shurloc]

@Sbrem - You only have the holes on one short side of your frame, right? If you are dead center drilled on your cups, then you would only have about 3/8" to move up to mount the new screws... I would suggest rotating to the opposite side and remounting there. That gives you a completely clean side to mount to and the side that currently has the holes would get covered by the angle and sealed with the silicone...

the wholes are on both sides . . .

I'll get with Jim on thoughts, I'm sure he's thought about this and has an idea... Back shortly!

[blue moon]

@Sbrem - You only have the holes on one short side of your frame, right? If you are dead center drilled on your cups, then you would only have about 3/8" to move up to mount the new screws... I would suggest rotating to the opposite side and remounting there. That gives you a completely clean side to mount to and the side that currently has the holes would get covered by the angle and sealed with the silicone...

the wholes are on both sides . . .

I'll get with Jim on thoughts, I'm sure he's thought about this and has an idea... Back shortly!

if it would help, I can send you a screen so you see exactly what is going on.

[Denis Kolar]

Maybe this will help explain the MHM frames ans possible solution

[blue moon]

Maybe this will help explain the MHM frames ans possible solution

great idea and had me thinking for a sec, but it would not work. the issues is the distance from the mesh to the pin. When the angle pieces is added, the distance changes and it has to stay the same.

[Denis Kolar]

great idea and had me thinking for a sec, but it would not work. the issues is the distance from the mesh to the pin. When the angle pieces is added, the distance changes and it has to stay the same.

Can you adjust off contact, or move the pins up a bit more (Or down)

[blue moon]

great idea and had me thinking for a sec, but it would not work. the issues is the distance from the mesh to the pin. When the angle pieces is added, the distance changes and it has to stay the same.

Can you adjust off contact, or move the pins up a bit more (Or down)

yes, we can adjust off contact, but it is extra work (thus time consuming) and there is a possibility of forgetting to take it back and messing up the next print. I would rather just stick with EZ frames than have to deal with the off contact adjustments every time we use the converted frames.

The discussion going on is about the location of the pins. If they are moved, the new hole might overlap the old one and cause issues with the pin stability.

[Sbrem]

@Sbrem - You only have the holes on one short side of your frame, right? If you are dead center drilled on your cups, then you would only have about 3/8" to move up to mount the new screws... I would suggest rotating to the opposite side and remounting there. That gives you a completely clean side to mount to and the side that currently has the holes would get covered by the angle and sealed with the silicone...

no, both short sides, cups are on both ends. They push onto the rear pins, then you push the frame toward the back, lift the front up to align with the front pins and let the gas piston push the front into place.

Steve

Pierre, what do you think of the machine screw option I mentioned? Our holes are centered top to bottom, our mesh distance is the same from either side...

[Screened Gear]

I have been following this thread because I want to try these. I agree with Pierre that the bushings could be a problem. If the top part of the bracket is at least 3/16ths thick it will be a non problem. The screw is 3/16ths thick so moving the hole at least this far will miss the old hole. We will have to redrill new holes to reattach the Bushings for MHM's. If you don't you will screw up the offcontact, the screen distance from the FPU reg marks and the consistancy with any other screen you have in the shop.  I think the diagram Attached will help.

[Sbrem]

I knew I was missing something, the height of new piece. If I move my centered holes up, it should end up being a non-issue.

Steve

[shurloc]

@Sbrem  Exactly... You have .25" on the bar and about .125" on the angle height... That means you need to move your cups up (towards the hook and bar side) about 3/8" minimum. This movement would make the cups in the same position for the same off contact you have now. Keep in mind though, when you double the tension on your fabrics, your off contact is going to be much less than it would on your standard frames. In general, your off contact on an EZ frame would be around 1/16" and your pressure will need to be lightened as well. If you run the same off contact and pressure, you will snap fabric panels constantly.