I finally found a deal on some M3 roller frames

[Doug S]

The other day I picked up some 25x36 M3 frames.  I also bought a L3 rollermaster to stretch them with.  My question is about the mesh.  I know the flash panels would be easier to stretch with me being a newbie.  They are a bit costly even though I'll probably make up the cost difference in time saved, but how do they compare to other meshes such as murimaki mesh as far as ink lay down etc.  I don't want to sacrafice quality for "easier".   I know this is job specific but if you were to start off all over again with newman roller frames, what would your choice be on mesh type saaiti, muramaki etc?  Also, would you use flash panels or bolt mesh?  I'm completely new to roller frames and the roller master so I'm pretty excited but I want to start off on the right track. 

Doug

[tpitman]

I'd go with panels. Having busted as much mesh as I've successfully stretched with bolt mesh, the panels are probably almost as cheap in the long haul. But that's me. I've got some older frames still meshed up with bolt mesh, but anymore all I buy are panels. For the life of me I don't know why I have so much trouble because I follow the instructions explicitly. Low counts, like 110 or 83 aren't an issue, though.

[Printficient]

I personally would use bolt mesh.  Two reasons:  First cost.  Second I think you should learn how to stretch screens from the get go.  Learn the proper way to soften corners and get the mesh square.  If you should get a panel frame that is improperly set up and you do not know how to stretch then you will not know why your screen ripped.  The roller table is something I would use after I did a few manually one roller at a time.  Same reason as above.  Just my two cents.
As to mesh you will do well to buy Italian, Swedish or Japanese.  We at Xenon sell Italian (Saati).  Tetko and Dynamesh are good as well.  I know that apples to apples no one can beat our mesh prices.

[Printficient]

I'd go with panels. Having busted as much mesh as I've successfully stretched with bolt mesh, the panels are probably almost as cheap in the long haul. But that's me. I've got some older frames still meshed up with bolt mesh, but anymore all I buy are panels. For the life of me I don't know why I have so much trouble because I follow the instructions explicitly. Low counts, like 110 or 83 aren't an issue, though.

You might be getting some not square or softened properly.

[BorisB]

As to mesh you will do well to buy Italian, Swedish or Japanese.  We at Xenon sell Italian (Saati).  Tetko and Dynamesh are good as well.  I know that apples to apples no one can beat our mesh prices.

I wasn't aware of any swedish mesh manufacturer. Which Company is this?

Boris

[Printficient]

As to mesh you will do well to buy Italian, Swedish or Japanese.  We at Xenon sell Italian (Saati).  Tetko and Dynamesh are good as well.  I know that apples to apples no one can beat our mesh prices.

I wasn't aware of any swedish mesh manufacturer. Which Company is this?

Boris

I could be mistaken as I am losing my memory, but I think Tetko is Swedish.  Or is it English?

[ScreenFoo]

Close--I believe Sefar bought them out, but Tetko was manufactured in Switzerland.  Not sure if they are still manufacturing or not.  (easy to mix those two up)

And I would agree with Sonny--if you're in it for the long haul, you could save piles of money with bolt mesh *IF* you can pick it up.  I'm in a pretty small shop and my screen guy screws up at least a couple dozen screens a year--thats 500 bucks in panels, or 90 bucks in raw mesh...

[Socalfmf]

go with shur-locs...call them and discuss with them...we use the econ mesh for just about everything and we have not seen a difference with that vs. the higher end mesh...s mesh is awesome for good coverage...

sam

PS.  you will save a lot of time using panels vs. bolt...and that time can be spent on press making more money

[ScreenFoo]

Spent fifteen minutes meshing and softening corners on four frames last week.  If I only would have spent sixty dollars more so it only would have taken five....

[Printficient]

go with shur-locs...call them and discuss with them...we use the econ mesh for just about everything and we have not seen a difference with that vs. the higher end mesh...s mesh is awesome for good coverage...

sam

PS.  you will save a lot of time using panels vs. bolt...and that time can be spent on press making more money

Sorry Sam but unless your screen stretcher is also your press operator your statement confuses me.  If you are prepped and scheduled properly ( minimum of 2 to 3 days out) then any time spent on any pre-press job is inconsequential as all pre press is done for the next two days.

[pwalsh]

The other day I picked up some 25x36 M3 frames.  I also bought a L3 rollermaster to stretch them with.  My question is about the mesh.  I know the flash panels would be easier to stretch with me being a newbie.  They are a bit costly even though I'll probably make up the cost difference in time saved, but how do they compare to other meshes such as murimaki mesh as far as ink lay down etc.  I don't want to sacrafice quality for "easier".   I know this is job specific but if you were to start off all over again with newman roller frames, what would your choice be on mesh type saaiti, muramaki etc?  Also, would you use flash panels or bolt mesh?  I'm completely new to roller frames and the roller master so I'm pretty excited but I want to start off on the right track. 

Doug

Doug;  IMHO, the direction that you should go (Mesh Panels vs. Bulk) is clear after reading your post that states; “I'm completely new to roller frames and the roller master so I'm pretty excited but I want to start off on the right track.” My advice is to “initially” forgo the potential savings from using bulk mesh and get started with the Shurloc mesh panels to remove as many variables as possible.  There will be plenty of time and opportunities to save some cash after you are enjoying the benefits of higher and consistent screen tension by using the Newman Screen Frames and  Roller Master screen stretching system.     

[Doug S]

I appreciate everyone's input.  I can't wait to get these things into production.  I'm glad that it's the time of year that I have a little time to get them to initial tension and taped.  I really wanted the 23x31 frames but at $10.00 each I had to take them.

Thanks again

[patfinn]

i have done it both ways, bolt and shur locs. def shur loc 100%. Even if you do have someone else thats not on press stretching screens, hes still wasting time, which = $$. shur locs take more human error out of everything so your screens can be predictable, more stable, and less issues.  but to each their own.. I personally have seen the investment of shur locs payoff.

[Gilligan]

My guy is actually enjoying the stretching process now (from bolt).

[Inkworks]

Is setting up bolt mesh in Newmans really that tough? I gave my new guy the Hix CD and he's been taking, and holding, the Hix retens to max mesh ratings without busting any all season.

Maybe he's just that good? Not bad for a guy that's only been doing it for 8 months.