How I feel trying to use dischage and understand it

[3Deep]

Some shirts just don't discharge very well, I found that out while testing shirts with the sales rep one afternoon.

Darryl

[Binkspot]

We started with the plasticharge and never liked it, always had a hand and not a brite white. Tried the CCI D-White and never looked back. Even got some greens that were not supposed to discharge well to come out nice and brite. Our biggest hurdle now is the dryer. Like Nick said it will feel stiff until t is worked or washed.

[GraphicDisorder]

We started with the plasticharge and never liked it, always had a hand and not a brite white. Tried the CCI D-White and never looked back. Even got some greens that were not supposed to discharge well to come out nice and brite. Our biggest hurdle now is the dryer. Like Nick said it will feel stiff until t is worked or washed.

Rebranded CCI I'm told. 

Some shirts just don't discharge very well, I found that out while testing shirts with the sales rep one afternoon.

Darryl

We also tried Gildan Black. 

Are you using the CCI D-white, or Ryonet's version of it?  If not, what product are you using? 

Ryonet's version, said to be just relabeled CCI.  No idea though. 

[JBLUE]

One reason to buy direct from the supplier. No telling what your getting from rebranded inks. Unless you see them pour it in yourself who knows what the hell it is. I would try the 90/10 mix or go 100% ink and see what you get.

Can you smell the discharge agent after the shirt cools?

[alan802]

I've never based down that white discharge.  I'll add some water sometimes but it's just 6% activator directly into the white ink and print.  I'm sure the more experienced DC guys will chime in but I always assumed if you wanted DC white, you just added activator to the CCI D-white and got after it, no need to base it down unless you wanted a more muted white or needed to stretch a gallon out a little more.  TONY!!!!  Where you at?

[Nick Bane]

just my opinion and whats works for me, but when i use white discharge i do mix about 15% base to it, usually by eye, and a bit of extra binder, mix, then activator.  to me the extra base helps the penetration and dye discharge of the shirt, basically, taking more of the dye out of the shirt and making the white thats there appear brighter.  again, just what works for me.

[GraphicDisorder]

I've never based down that white discharge.  I'll add some water sometimes but it's just 6% activator directly into the white ink and print.  I'm sure the more experienced DC guys will chime in but I always assumed if you wanted DC white, you just added activator to the CCI D-white and got after it, no need to base it down unless you wanted a more muted white or needed to stretch a gallon out a little more.  TONY!!!!  Where you at?

Tried that, and it was white.  But it was also nearly as heavy as our plastisol prints.  I didn't wash it which I do know would make it better, but how much better?  I also don't think it was super white either if I remember.  Our first test was the CCI White and it was a couple months back.  Didn't try straight white this time.

just my opinion and whats works for me, but when i use white discharge i do mix about 15% base to it, usually by eye, and a bit of extra binder, mix, then activator.  to me the extra base helps the penetration and dye discharge of the shirt, basically, taking more of the dye out of the shirt and making the white thats there appear brighter.  again, just what works for me.

This confuses me even more.  Others had said 70/30 80/20 90/10 (Base to white). You are basically saying the opposite correct?  15/85 (Base to white)?  What you are saying makes the most sense in my head but again, I am a infant.  The 70/30 we tried, wasn't white, it was nearly natural.  Which I guess would be fine as a underbase.

Maybe my expectations are too high.  Here are a couple things I would hope discharge would help me do....
1. Save a screen, white being bright enough no longer need a underbase and a highlight on black t's with white and other colors in the design. (99% of our work)
2. No more print flash print white on low qty 1 color (white ink) jobs where 2 screens can't be justified.  (we do a lot of small orders, so if I don't' have to run 24pcs around twice, that would be great)

I have seen some discharge but generally from suppliers.  For all I know they are doing something to make them look brighter than they will actually appear to sell more product.  Or I am doing something wrong. 

One reason to buy direct from the supplier. No telling what your getting from rebranded inks. Unless you see them pour it in yourself who knows what the hell it is. I would try the 90/10 mix or go 100% ink and see what you get.

Can you smell the discharge agent after the shirt cools?

All I can do is go by what I am told.  I am told its re-branded CCI, that came from many people on this board. 

90/10 (Base to white)?  We did 100% White.  Wasn't amazing, but again my expectations may be off.

How about this, anyone wanna send me a shirt they printed with discharge?  Happy to pay for the shipping and the shirt.  Even retail price for the shirt.  It would help if I have something to compare with I guess. 

[ScreenPrinter123]

Ill second Brandt - if anyone wants send me a sample of a bright white they got on a dark shirt (preferably using cci) with one hit and the mixture ratio of what to what, ill cover the costs. We seem to be in the same boat - not knowing what brightness we should be expecting to achieve with white discharge and/or white dc and base mix -- particularly on shirt colors such as reds, blues, purples, in addition to navys and blacks.

[GraphicDisorder]

Ill second Brandt - if anyone wants send me a sample of a bright white they got on a dark shirt (preferably using cci) with one hit and the mixture ratio of what to what, ill cover the costs. We seem to be in the same boat - not knowing what brightness we should be expecting to achieve with white discharge and/or white dc and base mix -- particularly on shirt colors such as reds, blues, purples, in addition to navys and blacks.

Exactly, for all I know I am doing it right, but my expectations are too high. 

So far I can only imagine this for under base, just because I expect a bright white.

[Screened Gear]

Ok let me explain. D- base is clear and has binding agents in it..  D- white is white pigment added to clear base. Base is the binding agent that makes the pigment in the ink or that you add stick to the shirt. You did 70 percent clear ink to 30 percent white and expected a bright white. Discharge white will feel like crap until washed. Basing it  down a little will help coat all the fibers. This will make the white look brighter since all the viewable fibers have been died.

Discharge white is not white.  Compared to quick white its about 7 percent less bright. Depending on the shirt color brand and about 10 other things the brightness will very. Unless your putting the discharged white next to a white sheet of  paper it looks bright white on a good discharging shirt and color.

Hope this helps

[GraphicDisorder]

Ok let me explain. D- base is clear and has binding agents in it..  D- white is white pigment added to clear base. Base is the binding agent that makes the pigment in the ink or that you add stick to the shirt. You did 70 percent clear ink to 30 percent white and expected a bright white. Discharge white will feel like crap until washed. Basing it  down a little will help coat all the fibers. This will make the white look brighter since all the viewable fibers have been died.

Discharge white is not white.  Compared to quick white its about 7 percent less bright. Depending on the shirt color brand and about 10 other things the brightness will very. Unless your putting the discharged white next to a white sheet of  paper it looks bright white on a good discharging shirt and color.

Hope this helps

I did 70/30 because that was what was side to do on another thread.  The time before that I ran straight white and it was white yes, not super crazy white but yes felt like crap yes.  Never test washed it because it also didn't look that amazing.  Again it may be my expectations.

[Screened Gear]

If wash a discharge print you will not be able to feel the print. Even that thick crappy white. discharge has its place. Not for every customer.

[GraphicDisorder]

If wash a discharge print you will not be able to feel the print. Even that thick crappy white. discharge has its place. Not for every customer.

Which is still super confusing to me as well.  How does ink on top of this "crust" not end up also washing away when the "crust" washes away"

[Binkspot]

Your basically removing the pigment and replacing it with another. The "crusty residu" is excess pigment lying on top of the fibers. The plastisol is lying on the fibers, discharge penetrates the fibers hence why you can not discharge syenthitcs. We found the key to be more pressure pushing the discharge into the fibers the better the results.

[nobrainsd]

I see a lot of discussion about the mixing of a high opacity white and base, there has been some previous mention of adding water but not in the follow up posts.

While I'm using magna and not CCI and  I print on a manual through a relatively high mesh (230) with a lot of detail, I have found that adding 5% water has really helped me to get a better saturation and actually a brighter white. Though nothing beats a big ass solid layer of white plastisol. I started out using the recomended activator % and base or HO white mix with no water. Was really surprised in the difference between the Magna superwhite without water and with. Printed much better. Saturated more and had  a much less chalky feel to the end print. The image was whiter too, as the underlying black (on a gildan black) discharged more and the weave was less apparent. I had to hit it twice on my manual with hard pressure.

So maybe this doesn't apply. but I saw on a number of earlier DC posts that 5% water was a good thing and I must say that it even reduced my pick up and the threads don't show nearly as much.

I'm still getting used to this dc stuff. looking forward to playing with the activator % ala Tony. Also picking up a Matsui Spot black WB to augment my DC inks. Just thought I might mention how much improvement there was for me with a little water added. I used distilled water. Is that necessary? Hell if I know! But the local water is nasty. The manufacturers recommendations are mere guidelines...