WOW Printing

[ZooCity]

Just ran a thousand 2 color, black and red and didn't need a single wipe down.  You know what I think the key is aside from good screens, stencils, off contact, etc? 

Use any decent wow ink and don't modify it at all.

I know it's been said but seriously, bears repeating,  best results I've seen.  Could have ran another k, maybe more easily.  I threw down black first and the back of the red screen looked like a train wreck but the prints were perfect and this was butt reg with solid areas right against each other.  Wfx epic matte black and a book recipe mix of 186 c, nothing special needed.

[brandon]

Just ran a thousand 2 color, black and red and didn't need a single wipe down.  You know what I think the key is aside from good screens, stencils, off contact, etc? 

Use any decent wow ink and don't modify it at all.

I know it's been said but seriously, bears repeating,  best results I've seen.  Could have ran another k, maybe more easily.  I threw down black first and the back of the red screen looked like a train wreck but the prints were perfect and this was butt reg with solid areas right against each other.  Wfx epic matte black and a book recipe mix of 186 c, nothing special needed.

Yup, once you have your variables under control a good ink makes a huuuuge difference. Been saying this for years especially with QCM's wow ink series. Straight out of the bucket. Just stir and you are ready to go. Do not use their Low Bleeds or whatever and add softee base or whatever people tell you. I am serious. Just ask Colin!

[alan802]

There are a lot of variables that need to be right when doing wow, but the biggest factor is the ink itself.  You can do everything right and if the ink isn't designed for wow, it won't work. 

Are you saying the black built up on the red screen and made it look like a train wreck?  A good black ink that doesn't build up seems to be the hardest to find for us. 

[mk162]

what color shirt?  was there any underbase?  we never wipe screens, no need to and we are running statics.

FYI, I know you are thinking about an auto, there isn't a reason you shouldn't have one.  You could have finished that job in about 2 hours running with a total of 3 people. 

[3Deep]

I,ve run the black screen first and had so much build up I had to flash the black, so I just now stick with black as the last screen down.  Now I have run wet on wet with success if I can keep my print strokes to one pass and that really helps on the build up, but some inks are just tacky as hell.

Darryl

[abchung]

I can't get wow to work on a 230.... I have to use 305 on a manual press.

I would like to try out some Murakami mesh.
So, I would like to know which Murakami mesh is equivalent to a Saati 305 mesh.

BTW. I use Wilflex Ink.

Thanks
Anthony

[JBLUE]

Just ran a thousand 2 color, black and red and didn't need a single wipe down.  You know what I think the key is aside from good screens, stencils, off contact, etc? 

Use any decent wow ink and don't modify it at all.

I know it's been said but seriously, bears repeating,  best results I've seen.  Could have ran another k, maybe more easily.  I threw down black first and the back of the red screen looked like a train wreck but the prints were perfect and this was butt reg with solid areas right against each other.  Wfx epic matte black and a book recipe mix of 186 c, nothing special needed.

Which base did you use? This is also a big factor with Wilflex.

[ZooCity]

Yes, the black built up (not terribly just was smeared around) on the Red screen.  Looked like it needed wiped down but it didn't. 

White Anvil 980 so not the most challenging WOW scenario. 

225/40 Black
180/48 Red

Regular Epic base mixed with PCs.  I am going to order some of the halftone base this week b/c I want to see if it's anything like QCM WOW Clear.

Black was just WFX Epic Matte Black straight out of the bucket. 

abchung, what is the thread diameter and open area of that Saati 305?

[mk162]

shoot, depending on how I wanted that to feel on the shirt I would have gone 155s or 110's, maybe a 230.  Depends on the art and the ink feel.  I still would not have had buildup. 

[Frog]

I can't get wow to work on a 230.... I have to use 305 on a manual press.

I would like to try out some Murakami mesh.
So, I would like to know which Murakami mesh is equivalent to a Saati 305 mesh.

BTW. I use Wilflex Ink.

Thanks
Anthony

Wow! (and I mean wow and not wet on wet in that exclamation) I first jumped in the WOW pool when 160 was still my screen of choice. Union Ultrasoft, Excaliber black, sometimes some Union or IC softhand base as well.
Good results, of course even improving slightly after the first few, though I may have to wipe occasionally, mostly governed by tension.

[alan802]

I can't get wow to work on a 230.... I have to use 305 on a manual press.

I would like to try out some Murakami mesh.
So, I would like to know which Murakami mesh is equivalent to a Saati 305 mesh.

BTW. I use Wilflex Ink.

Thanks
Anthony

The 310/30 or 330/30 Murakami Smartmesh S threads will give you a similar ink deposit and have similar mesh opening and % open area as a 305/34 from Saati and I think Sefar's 305 is a 34 micron thread as well.

[Orion]

If you want to compare mesh counts, thread diameters, open area, thickness, tension levels, etc....check the manufacturers websites, it is all there.

[Socalfmf]

oh it doesn't really matter what ink you use..as long as you just keep printing...and why use better screens when you can do it with wood ones? 

sounds dumb doesn't it...

[abchung]

Yes it is a a 34 micron.... I will try some 310/30 out.... I hope the shipping cost from US and import duty won't burn me again.

BTW I need to warm up my inks before I can print through 305 properly..... Here is a link to an Article written by Mr M. Coudray. In the article there is a graph "Temp vs Vicosity".
http://printwearmag.com/article/screen-printing/print-without-additives

Thanks
Anthony

[inkbrigade]

Just ran a thousand 2 color, black and red and didn't need a single wipe down.  You know what I think the key is aside from good screens, stencils, off contact, etc? 

Use any decent wow ink and don't modify it at all.

I know it's been said but seriously, bears repeating,  best results I've seen.  Could have ran another k, maybe more easily.  I threw down black first and the back of the red screen looked like a train wreck but the prints were perfect and this was butt reg with solid areas right against each other.  Wfx epic matte black and a book recipe mix of 186 c, nothing special needed.

Yup, once you have your variables under control a good ink makes a huuuuge difference. Been saying this for years especially with QCM's wow ink series. Straight out of the bucket. Just stir and you are ready to go. Do not use their Low Bleeds or whatever and add softee base or whatever people tell you. I am serious. Just ask Colin!

Haha! Brandon YOU are the one that told me to use softee base!