discharge underbase-top colors washing off

[Rockers]

Wondering what the reason for this might be. Could it be that the discharge base is not fully cured?
We printed discharge base flashed it for a few seconds and then printed red QCM WOW bright red and QCM cotton white on top. Cured it for around 2 minutes at 170 degrees Celsius in our gas dryer. Test washed a couple of shirts with the result that you can peel of the white and red.
Will try send them through the dryer again and see what is happening.

[Screened Gear]

I can't help I haven't done this yet. I did do a white discharge as a under base with no wash test problems a few months ago. I only had it in the dryer for 90 seconds and got it a little hotter than you did. I got it to about 350 degrees on the shirt surface about one foot inside the end of the chamber. (170 Celsius = 338 degrees Fahrenheit) I can't imagine that little bit of heat could matter.

I am interested in what others say here. I want to start doing discharge under bases soon.

[Admiral]

Are you using white discharge as the underbase?

I've used 80/20 up to 70/30 discharge base to white discharge as underbases for plastisol with no issues

Alan told me if you use too much or full white discharge the plastisol won't stay.

Try 80/20 mostly base.  This will also print into the shirt easier to get the plastisol to end up on top of the shirt a bit instead of just on top of the waterbase ink I think.

[Screened Gear]

I did it just for some tests. I use discharge white (CCI D-white) for the underbase. I was surprised at how the top colors stayed. I know alot of guys say they will wash off. If I was to do this on a job I would use 80% base 20% white.

[3Deep]

A straight discharge white base without some clear base added will crack and the top colors will flake off, maybe you want to print all discharge colors.

Darryl

[jasonl]

A straight discharge white base without some clear base added will crack and the top colors will flake off, maybe you want to print all discharge colors.

Darryl

I have a sample on my desk and after 3 washings, still beautiful.  So I guess its more of the application and alot of variables.

[3Deep]

Jason your base didn't crack?  my straight white discharge base cracks which cuz the top layers to crack as well, I was told to allways add some clearbase for that reason.

Darryl

[Orion]

A straight discharge white base without some clear base added will crack and the top colors will flake off, maybe you want to print all discharge colors.

Darryl

I have a sample on my desk and after 3 washings, still beautiful.  So I guess its more of the application and alot of variables.

Bingo! application and variables.

[jasonl]

the superhero job I posted on here, it has Sericol HO white base, and after 3 washings, I think it looks better than it did right off the press.  And zero hand.

So this application, I KNOW works.

Sericol HO discharge white on a 200 mesh
CMYK 305 mesh
highlight white 230 mesh

Wash it and it looks GREAT!.

Oh yeah, Gildan 5000

[Orion]

Sounds good Jason. If a heavy mesh is used for an underbase and you get too thick of an ink deposit along with the deposit being driven completly to the inside of the shirt then there is going to be a problem with your over print plastisol inks

[Doug S]

Wondering what the reason for this might be. Could it be that the discharge base is not fully cured?
We printed discharge base flashed it for a few seconds and then printed red QCM WOW bright red and QCM cotton white on top. Cured it for around 2 minutes at 170 degrees Celsius in our gas dryer. Test washed a couple of shirts with the result that you can peel of the white and red.
Will try send them through the dryer again and see what is happening.

Today was my first attempt at a discharge underbase and plastisol top.  I used 50% base and 50 % white discharge that I purchased from Ryonet.  After one washing no problem so far.  I loved the fact that it worked without a flash.  I was really nervous about the plastisol on top as far as curing was concerned thinking that I'd have to run a higher temp.  I have a mini sprint and set it for 90 seconds travel and 360 degrees and that seems to do it.   170 degrees celsius equals 274 degrees farenheit.  I might be wrong, but I'm pretty sure that's not hot enough.

[Rockers]

Well we used Sericol Texcharge for the underbase. Clear mixed with some white texcharge. The recommended  curing temp. by Sericol is 160 degress Celsius for 2 minutes minimum. it was
 printed through a 166 mesh. But maybe I have to raise the temperature considering there is a layer of plastisol on top of the discharge. My only worry would be to over cure the plastisol ink.

[Inkworks]

170C = 338F

[Rockers]

170C = 338F

Right on.
274F=134 C= totally under cured.
But as I have said they went through at 338F for 2 minutes.

[Doug S]

Well we used Sericol Texcharge for the underbase. Clear mixed with some white texcharge. The recommended  curing temp. by Sericol is 160 degress Celsius for 2 minutes minimum. it was
 printed through a 166 mesh. But maybe I have to raise the temperature considering there is a layer of plastisol on top of the discharge. My only worry would be to over cure the plastisol ink.

I told you I may be wrong  .   I'll have to try the Sericol then, I didn't know that it would cure at such a low temp.  I was nervous myself today because I'd printed discharge before, but never with plastisol on top.  I was able to keep the temp and the time the same and with no flash.  Was that Sericol a premixed 100% white discharge or did you mix with clear base?