UV ink

[ericheartsu]

Anyone here screen any non textile stuff with UV ink?

We have the set up here at my shop, and the one person who did it left, so i'm learning how to do it, and i'm hoping there are some tips you guys can share!!

[californiadreamin]

Tons of it! What are you printing?
General Rule of Thumb 355-420 mesh.
Used High Tension Static (aluminum/steel), or Roller Frames (critical)
Print stock size smaller than larger, until you get the hang of it.
80/90 Duro Squeeges, Smooth,Sharp,Nick Free (critical)
Use capillary films 2 mil, 3 mil. Can Coat inside emulsion for extra durability (critical)
Stay away from coroplast in the begining, If printing metals,make sure edges are burr
free(high tension frame will pop on a dime,expensive). Control Static on plastics, print on coated papers vs: uncoated. Print with correct off contact. (critical) Use butt registration/
small traps on all art, unless it is not critical,since uv inks are printed so thin,it is easier to
see. Wattage on UV unit? 200/300 wpi single lamp? I take it you are printing on a flatbed vs:cylinder press? If so single lamp ok, for most applications (speed). Be carefull with heat
sensitive stock for shrinkage/expansion etc. as it can be difficult for multi color registration
issues (mainly plastics). Used Fresh,Good Ink. Be carefull of to much light over press when
ink is in screen (uv).Don't overcure inks,on higher number multi color jobs (intercoat adhesion problems). Use same press washes as for PLASTISOL only. You are welome to call
me, because I type to slow and will be here all night!
Good Luck,
winston
(904)3430848

[ericheartsu]

Thanks Winston!

we have a svecia press and a svecia dual bulb dryer. but i've just discovered that one of the bulbs is either out, or we blew a fuse. so i'm checking into that.

I'm pretty ritrama vinyl decals. We did our first run today on 355 mesh with Dobouit (sp?) nova black. simple one color design.

i'm going to buy some 380 mesh tomorrow, and hopefully some 420 next month!

[Inkworks]

Winston had a great point about not over curing the first colours in multi colour print as it can cause significant adhesion problems in subsequent prints.  A decent UV puck for measuring the ovens cur rate is a great idea.

Welcome to the world of rapid ink curing!

[StuJohnston]

I don't have much to add, but there might be an additive for the ink that you can use to make it work with uncoated paper. At least there is for one of the Nazdar inks. Speaking of Nazdar, I have found them helpful in answering questions about their various inks and how to use them. I am pretty jealous by the way, I am hoping to rid myself of solvent inks eventually. I hope that Nazdar gets their LED inks worked out well enough to make them ready for regular customers soon.

Oh yeah, there's a local guy that prints UV on calendered Ritrama that gets good results.

[pwalsh]

Anyone here screen any non textile stuff with UV ink?

We have the set up here at my shop, and the one person who did it left, so i'm learning how to do it, and i'm hoping there are some tips you guys can share!!

Eric:  Looks like you've got some good information from the guys on the TSB forum.  The attached manual provides a fairly good overview of the UV screen-printing process.  Please feel free to check out the Nazdar website, call our tech services team, or contact me directly if you have any other questions.

[californiadreamin]

Great Info Peter!
Very good and usefull information.

[Doug B]

  Pay attention to page 4... especially. Disposal of any amount (even a rag) could have local
regulation consequences. You usually need a "curing chamber" specifically for UV before
ANY amount of waste, spill, etc. can be disposed of. Local regs here are so strict that we
steered away from it.

[ericheartsu]

Thank you guys so much! i'm reading through this nazdar guide and it's very very helpful.

I have a UV Puck, and i'm planning on testing it out today, and try to figure out what the readings mean as well!

Is there a test to see if it's cured? doesn't have to be an official test, can be something like the Stretch test on fabrics

[californiadreamin]

Hello Eric!
You can test final cure with what is known in industry as the " cross hatch tape test".
It falls under the testing standard ASTM# 3359.97
You basicly, take your printed piece, cut a 1" or so square with an x-acto,razor blade,etc.
in that square with a 1/8" grid pattern to the substrate.  Then take a piece
of tape with good adhesion (3m 600) put it down and lift slowly. Look at the results, did the
ink seperate/lift or did it lift with substrate (good result). You can do this right after it come
out of the curing unit! Intercoat adhesion, same test after each color, but not needed
most of the time under 7-8 colors.
Happy printing!
winston