Author Topic: Simple spot color requiring an underbase...what mesh's to use?  (Read 4789 times)

Offline Prosperi-Tees

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Re: Simple spot color requiring an underbase...what mesh's to use?
« Reply #15 on: July 22, 2012, 01:18:48 PM »
I just had no idea you could go anywhere near that heavy of reducer percentage and maintain opacity.
You won't get opacity. What you get is the washed out vintage tone on tone look.


Offline JBLUE

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Re: Simple spot color requiring an underbase...what mesh's to use?
« Reply #16 on: July 22, 2012, 01:25:33 PM »
At the end of the day it's still plastisol and will not have a "real" soft hand.

Me personally
200 base one hit
Flash
200 hi lite white one hit
260 red one hit

If you cannot get a real soft hand then you need to look at what is wrong with how your laying down the ink. This is a relatively simple print to get a really soft hand and have good opacity. Not every print has to have a 100% opaque white to be visually opaque. This print would be a perfect example of that.

High mesh, good ink mixed properly, the correct percentage of reducer/ soft hand, and good printing techniques will get this done with a really great hand.
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Offline inkman996

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Re: Simple spot color requiring an underbase...what mesh's to use?
« Reply #17 on: July 22, 2012, 03:24:12 PM »
At the end of the day it's still plastisol and will not have a "real" soft hand.

Me personally
200 base one hit
Flash
200 hi lite white one hit
260 red one hit

If you cannot get a real soft hand then you need to look at what is wrong with how your laying down the ink. This is a relatively simple print to get a really soft hand and have good opacity. Not every print has to have a 100% opaque white to be visually opaque. This print would be a perfect example of that.

High mesh, good ink mixed properly, the correct percentage of reducer/ soft hand, and good printing techniques will get this done with a really great hand.

I disagree plastisol has a certain feel no matter the additive. You can get better results with better printing techniques sure but you never get away from that plastisol feel.

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Offline Screened Gear

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Re: Simple spot color requiring an underbase...what mesh's to use?
« Reply #18 on: July 23, 2012, 02:25:15 AM »
20 percent white and 80 percent base is right (its mixed by eye not measured out exactly. I print the ink and then add white or add more reducer depending on the effect it gives on the shirt. Its very runny. Its printed twice so that the ink is put into the garment and the ink coats all the treads of the shirt. I could do more white instead of 2 passes but that would not give me as soft and consistent color. It does not have a ton of opacity, its a vintage or washed out look they wanted. It does look a lot whiter than you would think. White ink has a ton of pigment to it.

I have done this with grey for a background detail in a few designs also. It has almost no hand at all. The shirt in the picture below was done with blue and black and I thinned the ink out so much it had to be less than 20% ink when I got the print the way they wanted it. You can not feel the ink at all on this one (I know its a grey shirt not a black one.)
« Last Edit: July 23, 2012, 02:34:48 AM by Screened Gear »

Offline sportsshoppe

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Re: Simple spot color requiring an underbase...what mesh's to use?
« Reply #19 on: July 23, 2012, 09:21:22 AM »
why not use one stroke red, no base and is extreme red with pfp....

Offline ZooCity

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Re: Simple spot color requiring an underbase...what mesh's to use?
« Reply #20 on: July 23, 2012, 10:22:22 AM »
How many pcs?

If cotton, or maybe even if not, we would discharge both colors.

Plastisol would be 150/48 underbase, one hit.  225/40 or 180/48 for both highlight white and red, depending on what those tanks are made of. 

If it was a short run we would print flash print the white and use it as a top color and the red ub.

fwiw, our plastisol prints are softer out of the dryer than wb/discharge.  Even heavy deposits feel soft, rubbery, not so much ' plasticy'.