Which ink do you like for Polyester?

[GraphicDisorder]

I have avoided printing on Polyester for the longest time.  What inks brand are you guys using?

Cure temp?

Special steps?

[mk162]

just use regular ink, and get the garment as hot as you can.  Preferably, make it melt a little, that way you know the ink is goo and in there.

I actually like Wilflex HT Polywhite.  The first gallon was horrible, but it's gotten a lot better.  Get the ink to 330 at the most.  Try low and slow rather than hot and fast.

[Prosperi-Tees]

I am using International Coatings Poly White and regular plastisols on top. They have a low cure additive for inks as well so you dont have to worry as much about dye migration.

[GraphicDisorder]

How are you using reg plastisols and still getting it cured?  The few ive tried doing that get way to hot.....?

[Prosperi-Tees]

If its on top of a poly white it should be ok. I did a test and got the ink up to 340 on a temp gun and it washed just fine.

[GraphicDisorder]

If its on top of a poly white it should be ok. I did a test and got the ink up to 340 on a temp gun and it washed just fine.

What about the garment melting?  Thats the main issue we have had.

[Screened Gear]

Garment melting???

You should not see melting unless your over 400 degrees. (poly garments I am not sure but not less than 400) How are you measuring the temp?

[Sbrem]

we were using IC and Wilflex, but we had a problem garment from Charles River Apparel, and ended up with Rutland, which we've used exclusively since. However, sometimes, it's the garment, no matter what ink. Low and slow works best here...

Steve

[blue moon]

There is a low temp cure Epic White out there that is supposed to need only 275 or so. We never got around to using it much as our electric radiant dryer only has two temperatures, burnt and scorched!

The silicone ink we have now is only available in white and black so if there are any other colors needed, we use the new QCM 170. It is by far the most bleed resistant plastisol we have tried.

pierre

[aauusa]

One stroke is all I use.  I use a color max white for everything.  I do not care to use 2 different whites,  my printers have enough of a challenge to get the print correct and now you want them to remember what ink to use on certain fabrics.  NOT!!!!!!@  and as far as other colors just go with one stroke.  yes it is a little more but what cost more the ink or the extra hassle of not having the best ink possible.

I do not work for one stroke but man I love there ink.

[screenprintguy]

I have avoided printing on Polyester for the longest time.  What inks brand are you guys using?

Cure temp?

Special steps?

Set my heat wave at 330, speed 3.5-4.0, we use Wilflex Poly white, print flash print, double strokes and no bleed issues, no cure issues. If it's a bit stretchy, use some Wilflex stretch additive, we never have an issue with the cure rate changing with the wilflex stretch additive. The only bleed issues we run into is when we do camo, which we do alot of, so we actually make a grey underbase with poly white and black mix, top coat with 2 heavy white coats, and no bleed.

[Screened Gear]

There is a low temp cure Epic White out there that is supposed to need only 275 or so. We never got around to using it much as our electric radiant dryer only has two temperatures, burnt and scorched!

The silicone ink we have now is only available in white and black so if there are any other colors needed, we use the new QCM 170. It is by far the most bleed resistant plastisol we have tried.

pierre

I was always wondering why inks have to be so hot to cure. It would be great if all inks cured at like 150 to 200 degrees. Just think of the savings in time and electric or gas. I asked one of the ink companies and they gave me a really good answer. If they cured at 200 degrees then if you left a bucket in the sun it could cure one side of the bucket. I never thought of that as a reason they keep the cure temps higher. Just thought I would share.

[GraphicDisorder]

Garment melting???

You should not see melting unless your over 400 degrees. (poly garments I am not sure but not less than 400) How are you measuring the temp?

Donut probe.  We are 330-45 at the ink dryer at 406.

We ran some 50/50 recently and got some light discolor.   but I'm wanting to do some that are much more sensitive.  Like Dickie's work shirts and jackets. 

[jasonl]

WILFLEX PERFORMANCE  WHITE FAR OUT PERFORMS THE REST. IMO.

[Screened Gear]

Garment melting???

You should not see melting unless your over 400 degrees. (poly garments I am not sure but not less than 400) How are you measuring the temp?

Donut probe.  We are 330-45 at the ink dryer at 406.

We ran some 50/50 recently and got some light discolor.   but I'm wanting to do some that are much more sensitive.  Like Dickie's work shirts and jackets.

You know dryers are one of those things that is hard to help on. I want to help but I am sure you have tried most of what I am going to say. I know the donut probe is what everyone raves about but what are your temps 1 to 2 feet inside the dryer with a gun. If the gun reads more than 400 then you’re too hot for the shirt material. Why the probe is not ready higher I don't know. If your discoloring you have to be higher than 330-45 on the shirt surface. I know when coming to discoloring or scorching the shirt brand will give you different results. I can't scorch a gildan 2000 if I wanted to. I printed some triple A's and they scorched easy. They are the only shirt I have scorched to date. If your printing 50/50 I just use Quick White with no issues. Depending on the color of the shirt I will underbase everything and use normal inks on top. I can't see buying ploy inks in colors. I do adjust my dryer a little but not a lot. (less heat and longer in the heat to cook all the way though. Hope my little rant helps.