"He who marches out of step hears another drum." ~ Ken Kesey
Sure, if I didn't have 10's of people on here with a 3140 that could ball park me, I'd agree... it's just what you have to do.Problem with it is that this bulb is 2 years old (at least, from what I was told).So... do I do what Dennis suggested, or would my exposure times be 3x that. I understand that I'm going to have to waste some emulsion and some screens... I'm just looking to not completely waste a screen or two with numbers that just aren't even close.If I knew that 30-60 would be a ball park and I'd get a usable number out of that then at least I could be narrowing it down from there. But if I do 30-60 and nothing washes out... well that was WAY too long. If I do 30-60 and EVERYTHING washes out then I wasn't even close and now I have to pick another essentially arbitrary practically random number to try. I could easily waste two complete screens just flat out guessing and getting ZERO usable results.Maybe I'm spoiled because Andy gave me some good times to start with last time and I was able to get my exposure time on the first wedge test I ever did.
Not true.Light Units can be calibrated in some systems and on my older 3140 you can tilt the sensor up and down so it will read more or less light as a way of "calibrating" your light units.Alan's unit for example uses only like 10 light units or something ridiculously small like that to expose a screen. I'm sure it has something to do with the much larger bulb but I'd also venture to say that maybe that setup was designed for things that typically need longer exposure times (more units).So even from a 40-1k to a 3140... or even an older 3140 to a newer 3140 they will be different. How much? I don't know. That is why I specified that I had an older 3140. I'd LIKE info from a user of an older unit. But any 3140 info would be at least A starting point.
Not really... in my first response to you on this subject I said:Quote from: Gilligan on September 06, 2012, 03:04:17 PMNot true.Light Units can be calibrated in some systems and on my older 3140 you can tilt the sensor up and down so it will read more or less light as a way of "calibrating" your light units.Alan's unit for example uses only like 10 light units or something ridiculously small like that to expose a screen. I'm sure it has something to do with the much larger bulb but I'd also venture to say that maybe that setup was designed for things that typically need longer exposure times (more units).So even from a 40-1k to a 3140... or even an older 3140 to a newer 3140 they will be different. How much? I don't know. That is why I specified that I had an older 3140. I'd LIKE info from a user of an older unit. But any 3140 info would be at least A starting point.Basically, that they would be different.BUT, not everyone calibrates theirs... example the older units as I mentioned can't really be calibrated but only the sensor angled. Well, it's not likely someone pointed the sensor the other way completely. Again this is just a way to give me a smaller target to start off with.You are a WHOLE lot better at playing pin the tail on the donkey if you can take a peak with one eye after they spin you... even if you are blind folded. In my pin the tail on the donkey metaphor, I'd like to be within 1 foot of the target vs 5 feet from the target on my first "stab".So maybe instead of me "contradicting myself again", you are just being a stubborn ass, again.
If someone would have a 3140 and used Chromablue then for SURE I'd have had a starting point to cast my net.
FOR THE LOVE OF GOD GILLIGAN, TAKE A FKING SCREEN AND EXPOSE IT. we all had to start at zero to figure out our times, pay your dues and figure it out! I'm not handing over my info that I spent YEARS to figure out. . . exposure calculators are FREE. ok, now back to my chips-n-salsa.