Need some simple electrical help

[inkman996]

I built a light table for lining films up for our triloc. In th pic below you will see a simple on off switch and wires, I need to know how to wire this into two flours ballasts safely especially what and where to ground it. TIA

[mooseman]

here are two thoughts my simple electrical mind would direct wire the lights to a plug then plug that into a switched outlet.
For the more electrically endowed Vastex has wiring diagrams of their exposure units which use set up lights. here is a link to the vastex page  http://www.vastex.com/products/ExposingDryingUnits/exposing_unit.php
 Click on operating manuals and scroll down to page 12 thru 16.
mooseman

[inkman996]

here are two thoughts my simple electrical mind would direct wire the lights to a plug then plug that into a switched outlet.
For the more electrically endowed Vastex has wiring diagrams of their exposure units which use set up lights. here is a link to the vastex page  http://www.vastex.com/products/ExposingDryingUnits/exposing_unit.php
 Click on operating manuals and scroll down to page 12 thru 16.
mooseman

Good call mike I actually gutted a vastex exposure unit that is what you see in the pic I cut about ten inches out of the center to make narrower than built a table with it. Thanks for the idea I am sure the diagram will help.

[mooseman]

 hey Ink
I thought it looked familiar, we have vastex stuff.
Hope it helps, thanks for the back note
mooseman

[Binkspot]

The switch will go on the primary side of the ballest, hot or black wire. The white will be neutral. You can just wire them in series. The secondarys will go to the starters and toubmstones. The ground will go to the light pan the ballest are mounted on as long as it is metal, if not connect it to the first ballest mounting screw and place a jumper between each.

[inkman996]

Ok I am confused. The plug Is two prong that means no ground correct? The switch has one hot from the plug leading in yet three wires coming out that is where I am lost.

[Gilligan]

Black = Hot
White = Neutral

You want to switch the HOT.  Otherwise you have a hot wire going through the unit unswitched and that isn't safe.

[Binkspot]

Ok I am confused. The plug Is two prong that means no ground correct? The switch has one hot from the plug leading in yet three wires coming out that is where I am lost.

Yes it is a two prong, no ground. I wasn't looking at the picture when I posted. The hot goes to the switch and the other three wires go to three ballets. If there was a ground it would be attached to the pan.

[Northland]

Mike.... you need to ground the metal frame.
Get a THREE wire cord.
Green to the metal frame
White to the white ballast wires
Black to the switch

.... can't help you with that funky switch ??

[inkman996]

Gonna scrap the switch and wire up a simple wall switch with a three prong plug thanks guys.

[Gilligan]

That's the best way.

Though most systems still don't have any "true" neutral and they end up tying the neutral to ground back at the box anyway *shrug*.

[Northland]

That's the best way.

Though most systems still don't have any "true" neutral and they end up tying the neutral to ground back at the box anyway *shrug*.

.. not sure what you mean by "true neutral", but the neutral conductor and grounding electrode are intentionally bonded together (at the service) to assure they are at the same potential (zero volts to ground). Doing so creates a situation where any "hot" conductor will trip an overcurrent device if it comes in contact with a grounded surface. This is deemed to provide the greatest degree of personal safety.

[Gilligan]

Most neutrals are USUALLY tied to ground.  But not always.

I don't really understand the whole point behind a 3 prong system when in the end it ties to neutral at the box.  Half the time they just create ground loops anyway.

[ScreenFoo]

A grounded chassis is ensuring the chassis does not become hot--and make *you* the ground. 

Only standard by sinks these days, the GFCI circuitry installed in receptacles (and occasionally breaker boxes,) ensures the current going through the hot lead is exiting through the neutral--and not through you--not possible with the standard hot-neutral connection.
Not utilized as much as it could be, though.

Ground loops suck, but they're usually the end-product of cheap design.  But I guess, balanced inputs and outputs mean more parts and more money.

[Binkspot]

The ground is not suposed to be a normal pathway for electric but as a safety for the user and equipment. This is why we use ground fault detectors on large panels. Yes the neutral is sometimes bonded to the panel which is always grounded but does not mean you can use a ground for a netural. In most 3p systems they isoate the netural so you can pull 120 single off a 208 3p and some other combinations with out a transformer or pull 277 from 460 for lighting. In a normal house hold appliance you can get away without a ground because even if you hit the hot with your bare hand you are normaly standing on a wood floor or something so there is no path for the electric to flow, or you are isolated. In the case of a GFI there is a place for the electric to flow like the sink which is connected to the plumbing which is grounded. Electric is simply looking for a ground. Remove the ground by isolating and there is not shock. This is why there are switch board mats in front of panels and with proper training you can work in large panels with out getting electricuted. We use isolated tools not insulated tools when working in panels and switch gear again to stop the flow of electric.