How would you print this on black Ts?

[tonypep]

I think everyones missing something. Have you ever separated anything like this before? If not farm it out. Unfortunately that will add about two and change to the print

[Prosperi-Tees]

Never sepped anything like this. What if they went with white shirts? What would be the best way to tackle it?

[Sbrem]

Never sepped anything like this. What if they went with white shirts? What would be the best way to tackle it?

I'd go gray, black and blue on white...

Steve

[ebscreen]

You're gonna have to learn sometime.

This is a great one for the auto as well. Hand printing
will never have the consistent halftones that then auto will.

You have Photoshop Gerry? Play around with mono/duo-tones.
You can get some great b/w seps that way.

Depending on their budget, ubase, flash,ubase, flash, grey, black, blue.
I'm a fan of high linecount halftones printed on solid slabs of white. It's
almost like printing flatstock at that point.

[Prosperi-Tees]

No PS, I guess I need to break down and get it.

[royster13]

Ok maybe I will talk them into white shirts. I only have 230s on hand. I dont know if I want to try and tackle it and have it look like crap and have to tell them I cant do it.

From what you guys are saying 3-5 colors high mesh counts?

Why would you talk them into white shirts?.....If they came to you looking for black shirts, give them black shirts....

[ebscreen]

Older versions are cheap and will do almost everything we need it to do. We're stone
age when it comes to graphics programs.

GIMP might work for you as well, though I didn't like it.

[Screened Gear]

Do you guys always use as many colors as possible when printing monotone photo art. I have done hundreds of these jobs with just white underbase then white on top (same screen if your printing manually) and then the blue last on top of the white. Now if you’re trying to impress you can add a black, light grey and dark grey, but why. If this is a high end client then yes but that is an add on. I price everything as a minimum and then offer the upgrades if they will make a better print. If this was a job that I was giving a quote on and I quoted a 5 color job I would not get the job. The guy that quoted it a 2 color job would get it. Even the guy that quoted it a 2 color job with a white under base would be too high. Just my 2 cents.

230 under base 45– 55 LPI
flash
230 detail white 45 – 55 LPI
156 blue output at 100 LPI just for the fun of it

[Prosperi-Tees]

Do you guys always use as many colors as possible when printing monotone photo art. I have done hundreds of these jobs with just white underbase then white on top (same screen if your printing manually) and then the blue last on top of the white. Now if you’re trying to impress you can add a black, light grey and dark grey, but why. If this is a high end client then yes but that is an add on. I price everything as a minimum and then offer the upgrades if they will make a better print. If this was a job that I was giving a quote on and I quoted a 5 color job I would not get the job. The guy that quoted it a 2 color job would get it. Even the guy that quoted it a 2 color job with a white under base would be too high. Just my 2 cents.

230 under base 45– 55 LPI
flash
230 detail white 45 – 55 LPI
156 blue output at 100 LPI just for the fun of it

Definitely not trying to impress, these people are using the shirt as a fundraiser for the girl who has cancer and cost is a factor. Im trying to picture in my head what this would look like with just a PFP white. Do you have any examples that you have printed?

[royster13]

Instead of watching some "crappy tv" tonight, it might be time to practice....

[Screened Gear]

I have done a lot of RIP shirts. You know the shirts with a picture of the person that passed on them. I never take photos of them. Just printing them and seeing that picture over and over is enough to get to me. You will be fine doing it that way. Just remember your doing the white in the design so you need to print the negative of the photo. The film will look really strange but the print will look right. I usually do them at 45 LPI when printing white. The only one I could find is one I did at 30 LPI using line instead of dots it was a test. This one is also on a burnout...I know I broke a ton of screen printer purists rules there. see below. 

[Dottonedan]

It seems we all handle things differently.
From the looks of the file from my I phone, it would work in 3 colors on black.

1 Gray base,
- Flash -
2 Top white
3 Blue

You could include another color being a dark gray that could help bump it up to a more controllable print over a long run but to me, it's good at 3. The photo does not look like its got a bunch of tone to it. It seems mostly either black or white. Not that much mid tone.

230 mesh on base and 305 on top white. 230 on blue.
55lpi @ 22.5 degrees and ellipse dot shape. You could even use 305 on the base.

[Chadwick]

If you actually have a decent source file there, send it to me.
I'll sep it stupid cheap and you can learn something.
As long as you don't need it yesterday  .
Email's in my profile.

[Ripcord]

My problem has always been the fact that no matter what a nice job you do with a halftone print, it never looks as good as it does on the customer's computer monitor. Depending on the quantity, a DTG is often the best way to reproduce photos.

[Chadwick]

Fair enough.
Half the time though, custy's got rose tinted glasses looking at their 'creation'.

No amount of output resolution will resolve garbage source res.

In fact, it may look better linescreened with plastisol than dtg's most honest attempt at recreation.
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