Process or Sim Process?

[Dottonedan]

For sure, get it approved first, then send it to me.

[inkman996]

Usually when you get alternating heavy/light deposit is because the fiisrt print is not cleared well then the following print has excess ink to deposit resulting in heavier saturation. One thing  with 4cp its not easy to see if the screen cleared fully. This is my thought anyways i have had it happen and usually adjusting pressure and angle makes it go away. But I am not sure if you are printing on auto anyways.

[ScreenFoo]

As Dan mentioned, it would be neat to see a really nice photo of it, but you certainly made a nice job of it.  Always fun when they throw in black vector, and a black vector with a white background.
Too bad you couldn't try the white wet on wet with that big block going on the bottom.

Did you use a auto-mesh specific Union profile?

Also, do your choppers feel sticky when there's no air in the press?  I had the same problem a couple years back, and a thorough cleaning, rebuild and lube got the head working so well I did it on all of them...

[IntegrityShirts]

Yeah it's on the automatic.  I kept fiddling with speed, angle and pressure and it helped a little but I still saw variations in tone.  I've never had issues before but I did notice that the magenta's viscosity was much runnier than I remembered on previous jobs.

I did use a dual-cure emulsion on this job that I think helped after doing some exposure test calculations I was getting my dots all washed out nicely.  So that previous issue with double stroking the process inks is gone now.

[IntegrityShirts]

As Dan mentioned, it would be neat to see a really nice photo of it, but you certainly made a nice job of it.  Always fun when they throw in black vector, and a black vector with a white background.
Too bad you couldn't try the white wet on wet with that big block going on the bottom.

Did you use a auto-mesh specific Union profile?

Also, do your choppers feel sticky when there's no air in the press?  I had the same problem a couple years back, and a thorough cleaning, rebuild and lube got the head working so well I did it on all of them...

Seps were done with the quickseps actions and ripped in photshop and outputted to an HP9800.  No Union specific profile, just the quickseps profiles that come with their action package.  I have a hook on an epson 4000 that I'm going to jump on next month when the guy is back in town and make the switch over and possibly pick up a RIP package.

I'll check the choppers for stickiness, never though to do that.  I think the mac valve is probably going south on that chopper as I'd had to replace a couple other mac valves recently.  I prefer to print with pressure alone as it does give more consistent results given the heating of the pallets and their tendency to twist in weird ways.

I'll see if I can get a better pic with a real camera.  I really did want to try out the wet on wet white but you're right with that white block added I was shot out of the sky.  When they did that I switched to a regular spot black ink as opposed to the process black for opacity and hoped for a clear print over the white and flashed after it to minimize its spreading.

[IntegrityShirts]

Here's a big pic.   I probably could have cut the underbase back a little to not show white at the edges but figured it wasn't a huge deal on ash tees and I actually don't mind a little white outline.  I'm open to any tips, criticism, etc.  I am always looking to improve, thanks!

[ZooCity]

Looks pretty good considering all the variables in that art.  What lpi and mesh counts did you use here?

Curious if you found 4cp with bumps to be better than spot process as well.

[IntegrityShirts]

All 55lpi on 305 screens except the white which was a lowly 158.

I didn't use the green bump screen as was suggested I might need.  After the first print I saw how bright the green was and I was ok with it.  The only spot colors are the blue for the "H" and maroon for the logos which I'm wondering if the process magenta would have been opaque enough but I didn't want to risk it.

If the original art rendering had been higher resolution I think it could have come out better with sharper edges on the car and buildings.

[ScreenFoo]

Definitely agree with Zoo on that--for the variables, (and an iffy head) it looks great.  Might have been rough trying to put 55LPI on a 160--I haven't tried under a 200 mesh@55, and even then the tiny dots don't like it very well.