Heat press help! (screened transfers)

[ericheartsu]

Hi Everyone,
i just started screening transfers, for inside neck labels, and i'm having a hard time getting it to cure properly.

I'm using a Hix B250D cap press, and i'm screening gray union ultrasoft ink, onto transfer paper i got from my local supplier.

Currently, my press is set at 365, and i've been heating it for about 8 seconds (i've done as few as 3, as many as 16 seconds), and i've tried hot and cold peel.

Right now they come out ok, although my smaller lines don't always come out clear, sometimes they look a little ragged. Also i just did a test wash on some fabrics, and they all washed out, so they are not curing right!

Any tips? anything i'm doing wrong?

Thanks!

[killergraphics]

Try

Go down to 350 and 20 or 30 seconds and cold pill.

See if that does it.

[Frog]

You may also be over curing the transfer in it's initial run down the dryer. That then requires more of a melting when transferring.
You also may find a little help from the adhesive powder available from Union and others. It is applied either to the wet ink right after printing, or on the slightly tacky ink after its partial cure.

[ericheartsu]

i put these transfers through a smaller dryer we have, at around 300 degrees. I'm going to try doing another set tomorrow at around 230 and see what happens!

[Frog]

From the Ultra Soft Tech Sheet

CURING OF HEAT TRANSFERS:

Prints on heat transfer paper (Trans-Lith, Trans-French and Trans-55) should only be semi-cured. Over-cure may cause problems later on during transfer (more energy is needed to remelt a cured film than a semi- cured film). Semi-curing or drying the film only to the extent that the sheets can be handled, stacked, cut and shipped is the desired condition. The ink will semi-cure when the ink deposit reaches 250°F (121°C).

TRANSFER TIME AND TEMPERATURE:

REGULAR TRANSFERS: Transfer at 350°F (177°C) for 20 seconds or 400 F (204 C) for 5 seconds at 40-50 p.s.i. Allow transfer to cool completely (10-30 seconds) before stripping off the paper. HOT-PEEL ULTRA SOFT TRANSFERS: Transfer at 375 F (190 C) for 10-20 seconds, or 400 F (204 C) for 5 seconds, at 40-50 p.s.i. Quickly strip the release paper IMMEDIATELY after raising the transfer press platen while the shirt remains in the press.

[ericheartsu]

Frog,

thanks!!!!!

[ZooCity]

Hit me up if you need a hand on this. We've done these the way you are for years.  Union has an excellent page on their site regarding transfers generally speaking.

Get some of the adhesive frog mentioned and try stirring it into the ink.

[ericheartsu]

Ok, got the adhesive powder. Cured them at 230 degrees, at my fastest belt setting on my smaller 6ft dryer.

On the heat press: Tried it at 350 degrees at 20 seconds. tried it at  400 degrees at 5 and 10 seconds.

400 degrees at 10 seconds seemed to work a little bit better, but i still don't think it's curing correctly. they aren't scratching off completely, but they are flaking off, which leads me to believe they are not fully cured.

im washing them now to test them.

Anything i'm missing?

thanks again!!

[Frog]

So, did you use the dip and shake tray or box method or Zoo's suggestion to add it to the ink? I've only used the tray method, on both wet and partially cured transfers.

TRANSFER TIME AND TEMPERATURE:

REGULAR TRANSFERS: Transfer at 350°F (177°C) for 20 seconds or 400 F (204 C) for 5 seconds at 40-50 p.s.i. Allow transfer to cool completely (10-30 seconds) before stripping off the paper. HOT-PEEL ULTRA SOFT TRANSFERS: Transfer at 375 F (190 C) for 10-20 seconds, or 400 F (204 C) for 5 seconds, at 40-50 p.s.i. Quickly strip the release paper IMMEDIATELY after raising the transfer press platen while the shirt remains in the press.

[ericheartsu]

So, did you use the dip and shake tray or box method or Zoo's suggestion to add it to the ink? I've only used the tray method, on both wet and partially cured transfers.

TRANSFER TIME AND TEMPERATURE:

REGULAR TRANSFERS: Transfer at 350°F (177°C) for 20 seconds or 400 F (204 C) for 5 seconds at 40-50 p.s.i. Allow transfer to cool completely (10-30 seconds) before stripping off the paper. HOT-PEEL ULTRA SOFT TRANSFERS: Transfer at 375 F (190 C) for 10-20 seconds, or 400 F (204 C) for 5 seconds, at 40-50 p.s.i. Quickly strip the release paper IMMEDIATELY after raising the transfer press platen while the shirt remains in the press.

i mixed it in the ink, and followed the tech sheet i was given.

i did the hot peel method at around 400 degrees!

[hazeremover]

i mixed it in the ink, and followed the tech sheet i was given.
[/quote]

How did this turn out? I've never heard of mixing the powder into the ink. You'd think it would make the plastisol a bit pasty and harder to shear cleanly with. Always been applied to the plastisol after a color or dead last.

Most if not all of the inside neck mandatories tend to be powdered cold peels. Cold peel transfers are better suited for detail, especially small text. Print the transfers using a higher mesh with a minimal dusting of powder. Less is more.

 Hot split transfers, by their very nature, are generally less crispy edge wise.

[ericheartsu]

i mixed it in the ink, and followed the tech sheet i was given.

How did this turn out? I've never heard of mixing the powder into the ink. You'd think it would make the plastisol a bit pasty and harder to shear cleanly with. Always been applied to the plastisol after a color or dead last.

Most if not all of the inside neck mandatories tend to be powdered cold peels. Cold peel transfers are better suited for detail, especially small text. Print the transfers using a higher mesh with a minimal dusting of powder. Less is more.

 Hot split transfers, by their very nature, are generally less crispy edge wise.
[/quote]

it seems like it is working pretty great. our tags do have very fine text, so we found the best way was to heat it at 400 degrees for 5 seconds, then let it sit for a cold peel for 31 seconds, and it was coming out perfect everytime!

[BorisB]

When mixing powder adhesive into ink you might look carefully if screen starts to clog. Particles of adhesive powders are mostly 80-200 microns big. On 110/80 screen mesh opening is roughly 150x150 microns, meaning it catches lots of powder. With time you get less and less powder through mesh and are printing transfers of inadequate quality.
For beginners more messy but in long term way better approach is powdering wet ink film. If you are taking time to master removal of excessive powder you will create Transfers with superior adhesion.

[ericheartsu]

When mixing powder adhesive into ink you might look carefully if screen starts to clog. Particles of adhesive powders are mostly 80-200 microns big. On 110/80 screen mesh opening is roughly 150x150 microns, meaning it catches lots of powder. With time you get less and less powder through mesh and are printing transfers of inadequate quality.
For beginners more messy but in long term way better approach is powdering wet ink film. If you are taking time to master removal of excessive powder you will create Transfers with superior adhesion.

so doing it this way, would i print the transfer, then put the powder on it, then put it through the dryer? or put it through the dryer, then apply the powder?

[Frog]

Either. The powder does stick better to the wet ink, but it does pretty well with the partially cured as well.
The trade off is very slightly better assured stick vs not having to handle the delicate wet transfers, However, doing one at a time, even the wet guys aren't in that much danger.
I keep mine in a plastic Rubbermaid tray with a cover.

Here's what Union says in the tech sheet.
Unilon-2027 for Nylon, Polyester and Cap Transfers
After printing the plastisol (Union's Ultrasoft is the preferred ink) on heat transfer paper, apply Unilon-2027 as follows:
1. Fill a rectangular tray with approximately 1/4" of Unilon-2027 Powder.
2. Pass the transfer through the tray, print side up. Unilon will adhere to wet or semi-cured plastisol.
3. Remove powder from the unprinted areas by vigorously shaking the transfer or gently blowing cool air across it. Light brushing with a soft brush (taking care not to smudge the print), may also be used.
4. Semi-cure or gel the ink as described on the Ultrasoft Technical Data Sheet.
5. Transfer on a heat transfer press at temperatures compatible with the garment.