Ordering some bolts of Mesh (anyone use 305 on a manual?)

[Gilligan]

So I'm about to pull the trigger on an order of bolt mesh.

Gonna get some 110, 160 (both of these are in white), 200 and 230 (in yellow).

I'm getting 110 even though I've never used it before... guess I should have some (glitter?)

This is all for a manual press 18x20 MZX's.

Should I get 305's or would that be almost useless on a manual?

[Zelko-4-EVA]

I dont know if you would be able to get a glitter through a 110.  we use 24s for glitter, 86-110 for shimmers.  160 should be available in yellow.   We've been using Sefar E-Mesh - but they dont seem to have a 24 or an 86:

http://www.sourceoneonline.com/item.asp?categoryID=4&sectionID=118&subSectionID=64&subSection2ID=0&subSection3ID=0&attrCatID=0&attrIDs=0&catID=64&catTab=sub_section&productID=1059

[Gabe]

i would get 110`s 160`s 180`s yellow or 200`s yellow
give it a shoot with these meshes
i would not go beyond 200 on a manual
unless you are very strong muscle fella

[Frog]

I go up to 230 and 260, but only on some finer halftoned jobs

[alan802]

I'd get yellow mesh in everything, I hate white mesh.  There usually isn't a cost difference so get the yellow.  I don't think I've ever tried to print through a 305 on the manual press, we don't do much manual printing, but I'd bet it isn't easy.  I've struggled to print a good ink through a 195 on the manual and had to get on top of it and use a ton of pressure.  If I were manually printing a lot, I'd get S thread mesh from Murakami because the pressure needed to clear a 150/48 is roughly equivalent to an 86 Sefar pecap.

[Gilligan]

Good to know (Glitter).

Unless you think they will price match Atlas (230 Mesh (45 Microns) 55" wide @ $12.76/yard for 10 yards for example) I can't justify the extra cost given I've never done this before and have LOTS of learning and mistakes to make... plus my shop is not setup to hand "fragile" mesh at ALL so I imagine I will bust a lot of mesh doing stupid things at first.  Plus I'm getting 10% off being my first order... hence why I'm making sure I get as much as I "need" so I can take advantage of the discount.

[Gilligan]

Is this extra pressure still a concern with the push method?

I feel like I can put a lot of force on the squeegee that way... but I of course have no clue what I'm doing... I know I see my buddy's guys using the pull stroke and STRUGGLING!

[Denis Kolar]

110 for glitter, I use mostly 155, 200 and 230.
Just got some 305 to try CMYK.

I have printed white through 230 with no issues, but then again, I'm 6'5" and 240.

[Frog]

Quote from Shout box,
"Frog, quick question not really worthy of a post I figured... as a simple single answer would satisfy such a trivial question".

Not so simple. eh? Lots of feedback

[Gilligan]

Quote from Shout box,
"Frog, quick question not really worthy of a post I figured... as a simple single answer would satisfy such a trivial question".

Not so simple. eh? Lots of feedback

yeah yeah yeah... Granted, I haven't changed my shopping cart yet. :p

[Binkspot]

We have run process ink through 355's on the manual but unless this is what your doing no sense to get it just to have it. We run glitter through 60's.

Push all the way, only pull to fill in sometimes. I had a guy working for me that thought pushing was a cardinal sin in the screen printing world, so at the end of the day when his back and arms were aching I'd ask him how the pull thing was working. Always gave me a dirty look. He didn't last very long.

[ScreenFoo]

Assuming you're planning on doing the 305 mesh on the MZX's, I'd get some.  I do 86,125,156,200,230, and 305, and although the 305's are a little tricky printing and prepress wise, as well as being very easy to damage, they will save your butt when someone brings in some kind of crazy detail they just HAVE to have on their (hopefully white) shirts.  And although you can get into process with 230's, 305's will be easier to hold down your dot gain with.

[Shanarchy]

I print my white on black through 305's manually. Well, maybe not.



I have a pretty boring shop. We do 90% basic spot colors. I have printed almost everything through 110's and 160's (manual). I've used 200's a few times. If it is going on a dark shirt or white ink or metallic ink, I use 110's. Going on light shirts or an underbase, 160's. I've used 200's for heavy halftones (like a photo).

Even on the auto I seem to be using mostly 110 and 160. Although I do plan to experiment a little more with higher mesh counts soon.

[ZooCity]

i would not go beyond 200 on a manual
unless you are very strong muscle fella

Well call me Popeye then.  Aye gad a guy ga guy! 

Seriously, you can go much higher than that printing manually with a proper pull to fill and push to print set of strokes.   Same rules apply as auto printing I suppose so if yer press is not in parallel, your blade's not sharp, etc., etc. than it's not going to work at any mesh count. 

+1 for S mesh on the manual.  It's all I'm running right now and we go up to 330/30.  I posted a pic awhile ago with opaque neon pink ink that flowed right through a 310/30 and hit both halftones and solid fill open areas.  It's worth the extra effort to care for and adjust to this mesh and is one of the few products/methods that have changed how I work in the shop for the better and improved our print quality.

For first time stretching the newmans, don't stress it.  If you really want, get some cheapo stuff to practice but it's okay to dive right in.  This forces you to take each screen very seriously, especially when you get to your first higher mesh screens.  What you don't want is a whole quiver of screens with cheap mesh that our underperforming compared to what you could have had for all that work.  Don't skimp on this part of your setup, it's not worth it, not by a long shot.  The labor to install and maintain is worth more than any of the mesh, so think about it that way. 

I actually have a whole box of Murakami T (maybe a little HD which are slightly thicker threads) standard meshes.  The hierarchy goes something like HD - T - (M? not sure on this one) - S - SS, from thick threads to thinner.  Excellent stuff, very stable and durable.  You could have the lot of it for a song or a trade if you like as I don't see myself using it now that I'm hooked on S.  If you were to use it all as "practice" mesh your end result would still be a set of kick ass screens, not a set of well build screens with crappo mesh, which is kinda pointless as I said.  Let me know. 

[Gilligan]

True but even crap mesh in a MZX is better than my crappy wooden statics or low tension aluminums.