RFU Transfer ink

[balloonguy]

Is there any such thing as a transfer ink that can be printed, dried and ready for storage? I have tried a couple but I had to treat with adhesion powder and never did get it right.
Thanks,
Matt

[ericheartsu]

I've really only found the adhesion powder to be the solution.

Matsui is coming out with some, but it's a two part system, meaning you'll print the ink, then you'll dry it, and print an adhesive on top.

[Frog]

Is there any such thing as a transfer ink that can be printed, dried and ready for storage? I have tried a couple but I had to treat with adhesion powder and never did get it right.
Thanks,
Matt

What exactly are you not getting right? The application of the adhesive? The actual storage without damage? Adhesion problems when later pressed?
First off, have you tried applying your transfers without adhesive? On friendlier fabrics like cotton and 50/50, inks not overcured may do fine. (Overcured inks may require additional heat and time to re-melt)
Second, depending on what specific problem you are having, have you ever tried mixing the powder in directly?

[TCT]

It's either the 900 or 950 series from Excalibur is great stuff. Ever since we started using it we got rid of the powder, well the transfer powder at least... 

[balloonguy]

Is there any such thing as a transfer ink that can be printed, dried and ready for storage? I have tried a couple but I had to treat with adhesion powder and never did get it right.
Thanks,
Matt

What exactly are you not getting right? The application of the adhesive? The actual storage without damage? Adhesion problems when later pressed?
First off, have you tried applying your transfers without adhesive? On friendlier fabrics like cotton and 50/50, inks not overcured may do fine. (Overcured inks may require additional heat and time to re-melt)
Second, depending on what specific problem you are having, have you ever tried mixing the powder in directly?

I have had major adhesion issues. I have been wondering of it is due to under/over curing the transfers. I have not tried extended application heat to insure "re-melt". That is a great place to start I think. I am just looking for an easy solution. I know many here have already done the trials and testing so I want to start where someone is already succesful.
Thanks again for the suggestion and ink brand.
Matt

[ericheartsu]

Is there any such thing as a transfer ink that can be printed, dried and ready for storage? I have tried a couple but I had to treat with adhesion powder and never did get it right.
Thanks,
Matt

What exactly are you not getting right? The application of the adhesive? The actual storage without damage? Adhesion problems when later pressed?
First off, have you tried applying your transfers without adhesive? On friendlier fabrics like cotton and 50/50, inks not overcured may do fine. (Overcured inks may require additional heat and time to re-melt)
Second, depending on what specific problem you are having, have you ever tried mixing the powder in directly?

I have had major adhesion issues. I have been wondering of it is due to under/over curing the transfers. I have not tried extended application heat to insure "re-melt". That is a great place to start I think. I am just looking for an easy solution. I know many here have already done the trials and testing so I want to start where someone is already succesful.
Thanks again for the suggestion and ink brand.
Matt

at first we had adhesion issue when we were doing plastisol transfers.
the key is to adhesive, then run through the dryer. You'll need to test your dryer to get the right temp/speed, but when we were doing plastisol, we were geling our ink around 230 degrees. sometimes lower depending on the ink.

We also had good luck, mixing adhesive powder into the ink. But it's not advised as it does put a shelf life on the ink. it starts to dehydrate, and get gummy.

[3Deep]

Check your transfer paper some is better than others, we print thru 86 mesh up to 110 and leave the ink wet powder and gel through the dryer.  Just press some transfers we've had sitting around since last year, heavy pressure at 340 temp for 20 sec.

[BorisB]

Is there any such thing as a transfer ink that can be printed, dried and ready for storage? I have tried a couple but I had to treat with adhesion powder and never did get it right.
Thanks,
Matt

What exactly are you not getting right? The application of the adhesive? The actual storage without damage? Adhesion problems when later pressed?
First off, have you tried applying your transfers without adhesive? On friendlier fabrics like cotton and 50/50, inks not overcured may do fine. (Overcured inks may require additional heat and time to re-melt)
Second, depending on what specific problem you are having, have you ever tried mixing the powder in directly?

I have had major adhesion issues. I have been wondering of it is due to under/over curing the transfers. I have not tried extended application heat to insure "re-melt". That is a great place to start I think. I am just looking for an easy solution. I know many here have already done the trials and testing so I want to start where someone is already succesful.
Thanks again for the suggestion and ink brand.
Matt

Did you try Wilflex Transflex series of ink? Has big temperature window for plastisol transfer. By this I mean your temp in dryer can be 10deg higher or lower than 110 deg C. Most other plastisol transfer inks are more sensitive, thus easily overcured.
And don’t print to thin layer of ink. 0,5mm is minimal thickness

[lancasterprinthouse]

One stroke makes good transfer inks that don’t need powder


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[balloonguy]

One stroke makes good transfer inks that don’t need powder


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Do you know which one it is? I looked at their site and it looks like you need powder unless I am missing something.
Thanks,
Matt

[lancasterprinthouse]

One stroke makes good transfer inks that don’t need powder


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you know which one it is? I looked at their site and it looks like you need powder unless I am missing something.
Thanks,
Matt

I use the 380 series.


https://www.onestrokeinks.com/shopexd.asp?id=27


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[Sbrem]

One stroke makes good transfer inks that don’t need powder


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Do you know which one it is? I looked at their site and it looks like you need powder unless I am missing something.
Thanks,
Matt

I use the 380 series.





https://www.onestrokeinks.com/shopexd.asp?id=27


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We just had 1000 seatbelt covers, very spongy, that needed transfers. We tried the 380, but didn't like the results, so we powdered them and all was fine. We don't do a lot of transfer work, but I'd like to find one that we don't have to powder, a huge time saver. I'll check the 380 again, maybe it was just this problematic product. I was at  8 seconds @330°, peeled immediately, passed the guitar player fingernail test...

Steve

[lancasterprinthouse]

One stroke makes good transfer inks that don’t need powder


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you know which one it is? I looked at their site and it looks like you need powder unless I am missing something.
Thanks,
Matt

I use the 380 series.





https://www.onestrokeinks.com/shopexd.asp?id=27


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We just had 1000 seatbelt covers, very spongy, that needed transfers. We tried the 380, but didn't like the results, so we powdered them and all was fine. We don't do a lot of transfer work, but I'd like to find one that we don't have to powder, a huge time saver. I'll check the 380 again, maybe it was just this problematic product. I was at  8 seconds @330°, peeled immediately, passed the guitar player fingernail test...

Steve

I’ve never had adhesions issues so I would lean towards the product you were doing but who knows. We really only use it for neck tag transfers or hat transfers because that’s about all we use transfers for.


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[balloonguy]

I finally reached out to one stroke. I use mostly next level 3600 and 6210. I would love to keep a few stock designs printed and be able to print(press) a single shirt. If I have to powder the transfers I will but I sure would love to avoid that step if at all possible.
Thanks again for all the help guys.
Matt

[zanegun08]

I've really only found the adhesion powder to be the solution.

Matsui is coming out with some, but it's a two part system, meaning you'll print the ink, then you'll dry it, and print an adhesive on top.

I second this, you can get them to stick, but they won't last long term without powder through washing.

There is printable adhesive that you can print, it may be a little faster than the powder process, but you have to make multiple screens, register it, so it depends on the size of the transfer order.

All legit transfers made overseas come with print, blocker, printable adhesive, and powdered, that's how they are made to last, you can always try to skip steps, but quality always suffers...

Proper application, and sometimes I will run the transfers down the dryer however I haven't tested if that actually does anything, but adds peace of mind