2 questions~

[Fleetee]

Been doing a lot of sample printing to get my speed up. I have 2 questions

#1 - about optimizing time efficiency on the press
I have a lot 1 color - white ink on black/dark garments. Do you recommend using:
- stepback function on workhrose sabre
- orbital mode on workhorse sabre
- or just white underbase (with choke), flash, then white layer (without choke)

#2 - faded print
I'm getting a lot of fade even with black ink on a white garment why do you guys think this is? [I attached some pics to this post to give some visual]
- i can feel the flood bar on the bottom of the screen
- squeegee pressure is at around 60-65 and angle is at about 5 degrees
- i played with slow, medium, and fast floodbar and squeegee speeds
- the screen is burned properly, good amount eom (i can feel the bumps when running my fingers across the design) and got a 7 on a the 21 step wedge test
- maybe the high mesh count? this one was used with a 200 mesh count but it's black ink so shouldn't it be fine?

Thanks guys

[Doug S]

It looks like that black print is on a sweater.  If that's the case, I would use a lower mesh or double stroke the 200.  As far as optimizing, the stepback would be a slow down.  You'd be better off using 2 white screens "a underbase and highlight white"  I wouldn't choke the ub though.  I would only choke the ub if I were to have to print another color on top but not white.

[RICK STEFANICK]

200 is too high for you at this point on fleece and a design with that little detail.. drop the mesh to 160 and double stroke if you need to.

[Frog]

A good rule of thumb is one step lower on the mesh count on fleece. (of course, that assumes that you don't have 180's). LOL!

[RICK STEFANICK]

A good rule of thumb is one step lower on the mesh count on fleece. (of course, that assumes that you don't have 180's). LOL!

Your crazy!!!

[Frog]

I dunno. When I started, I had 110, 160, 200,  and 260.
If a job was fleece-exclusive, I always dropped down one level.
Also tended to go up one level from manual to auto.

[RICK STEFANICK]

I dunno. When I started, I had 110, 160, 200,  and 260.
If a job was fleece-exclusive, I always dropped down one level.
Also tended to go up one level from manual to auto.

Good rule of thumb!!

[1964GN]

Been doing a lot of sample printing to get my speed up. I have 2 questions

#1 - about optimizing time efficiency on the press
I have a lot 1 color - white ink on black/dark garments. Do you recommend using:
- stepback function on workhrose sabre
- orbital mode on workhorse sabre
- or just white underbase (with choke), flash, then white layer (without choke)

For us it depends on how many shirts. More than 60-70 pcs we do 2 screens and p/f/p. Less and we go around twice. We NEVER choke the underbase when printing 2 whites. Underbases are only choked under other colors.

[Stinkhorn Press]

honest answer is - time and practice. too many variable to just switch the one holding you up.

white on dark. send it around 2x (or flashback whatever) for the number that it makes more sense for you - requires a little time study and timing the prints. roughly 50 give or take 50.
we choke our TOP white. but we're a little weird like that.

printing dark on light should be simple, but it isn't always.

[Sbrem]

I dunno. When I started, I had 110, 160, 200,  and 260.
If a job was fleece-exclusive, I always dropped down one level.
Also tended to go up one level from manual to auto.

Ha! We went from 60 (swiss yellow, 123 micron, kind of an S thread of it's day) to 355 for process work. I always hated 86...

Steve

[Fleetee]

This is a white t-shirt! haha

[Orion]

#2 Faded Print

Things to consider...

Durometer of the squeegee blade? (5 degrees on a hard blade is really steep)
Ink viscosity too high?
Screen tension level?
Off contact distance?

An added step but you could face coat the screen after it dries. That will add more EOM.

[Frog]

#2 Faded Print

Things to consider...

Durometer of the squeegee blade? (5 degrees on a hard blade is really steep)
Ink viscosity too high?
Screen tension level?
Off contact distance?

An added step but you could face coat the screen after it dries. That will add more EOM.

Yet in another thread, he wondered if he was underexposing due to too thick of an EOM.
Lots to sort out Fleetee. You are embarking on quite a journey. How's that consultant/trainer coming?

[tonypep]

Alll things well considered. Generally speaking on a white or ash shirt 158 mesh black ink should be fine.

[mimosatexas]

on black ink on the sabre with the stock 70 duro blades, which i assume you are using, i would put the angle at 20 and the pressure at 60 and use a 150ish T thread mesh (180S if you have it) for that art.

For us, anything over 50 is two screens for white on the sabre, no choke as others have mentioned.  For super small detail we will only include it in one of the screens vs both (like fine text).  We prefer to base with a 135S most of the time and finish with 180S or 225S for the second white.

I hate moving flashes and adjusting our flashback, so anything under 50 with a single screen we just orbital vs using stepback or the flashback.  Saves time usually vs messing with the flash.