Crusty feel of discharge ink?

[Dottonedan]

AS we know, Discharge is a great feel when washed.  The softness is a great selling point.
How tho, can we get it to feel soft (and bright/vibrant) when the buyer is getting it before washed?


We get it to look great, and feels great (after a wash) but feels crusty when the customer gets it. I'm no ink guy but I think I've read of some more precise methods for this on here.


Is there some portion of the needed chemicals to be more or less of in order to get the soft feel and full discharge? Less or more activator etc?

[ericheartsu]

I believe if you mix the activator into water, it'll help take care of some of that. I do not know the exact percentage though. i think Brandon does it.

[Cole]

I've seen someone on here mention doing equal parts (in grams) water and activator, stirring that up separately, then adding it to the ink. Also, CCI offers an additive called softner that is supposed to decrease the hand and give the ink a better flow. Lastly, I've found that if you aren't printing on combed rungspun, the hand is much heavier. Just printed D-White on some ringspun tees with a big blocky design and the hand turned out really nice. Here is what I used for my formula:

CCI D-White
6% Activator
6% Water
3% Fixer
3% Softner
3% Retarder

150 s-mesh

This combo seems to work well for me most the time.

[brandon]

Are you saying all of your discharge inks, white discharge, or Pantones with a heavy white load? I can't see how discharge without white would produce any hand at all, and even most Pantones with white barely any. White is another story but there are work arounds. But are you still working with Tony? He knows all this and way more than most of us!

[Dottonedan]

Speaking more so about discharge base whites. Leaves a crusty feel with a slight hand.  Maybe that's the best of it.  We ran a few while Tony was here (he left for another job) and it's about the same. Maybe I'm expecting too much.

[CBCB]

I've seen someone on here mention doing equal parts (in grams) water and activator, stirring that up separately, then adding it to the ink. Also, CCI offers an additive called softner that is supposed to decrease the hand and give the ink a better flow. Lastly, I've found that if you aren't printing on combed rungspun, the hand is much heavier. Just printed D-White on some ringspun tees with a big blocky design and the hand turned out really nice. Here is what I used for my formula:

CCI D-White
6% Activator
6% Water
3% Fixer
3% Softner
3% Retarder

150 s-mesh

This combo seems to work well for me most the time.

What fixer are you using? I’ve always been curious about whether different fixers can be used with other inks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Cole]

I've seen someone on here mention doing equal parts (in grams) water and activator, stirring that up separately, then adding it to the ink. Also, CCI offers an additive called softner that is supposed to decrease the hand and give the ink a better flow. Lastly, I've found that if you aren't printing on combed rungspun, the hand is much heavier. Just printed D-White on some ringspun tees with a big blocky design and the hand turned out really nice. Here is what I used for my formula:

CCI D-White
6% Activator
6% Water
3% Fixer
3% Softner
3% Retarder

150 s-mesh

This combo seems to work well for me most the time.

What fixer are you using? I’ve always been curious about whether different fixers can be used with other inks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use CCI inks with CCI additives. I believe fixer is a universal additive that can be used with all manufacturers of ink, but I would consult with your specific manufacturer before running any jobs. I know that I've seen a few printers on here use Fixer N from Matsui with non Matsui inks. This is what makes me think it's a universal additive.

[RICK STEFANICK]

Speaking more so about discharge base whites. Leaves a crusty feel with a slight hand.  Maybe that's the best of it.  We ran a few while Tony was here (he left for another job) and it's about the same. Maybe I'm expecting too much.

Dan, I am not sure what white your running but if its the Rutland WB99 thats a problem white for hand. The CCI D-White with 3 percent Rutland Penatrant WB0257 will give you a great result thru a 160-180 ,firm squeegie without all the complicated 5-6 additives. Also you should be running a 85/15, 80/20 base white mix when doing DC underbases.

[tonypep]

I was one of the pioneers with the 80/base/20 rfu dc white before many of the ink companies picked up on it so now you can buy the DC UB out of the bucket. That said, water, lubricant, penetrant will usually minimize the issue however our friends (interdependent variables) come in to play here. Most assuredly substrate. That would be several paragraphs!