Author Topic: White ink not clearing on Automatic after 3 strokes. Link to video. Help is ap  (Read 3964 times)

Offline im_mcguire

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So this is my Workhorse Cutlass:

My specs are as follows:
Pneumatic Head at 85 on the regulator
New 70/90/70 squeegee at 10-15 degree
156 mesh with tight tension streteched from Spot Color Supply
White ink Warmed up for 15-20 minutes
IC Blaze cotton white

I need 3 strokes to clear this thing...
any help is appreciated.

https://youtu.be/WTihy60AgBY


Offline Croft

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looks like your squeegee is dull? or your screens are not clean enough

Offline ebscreen

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Flood slower and lower the flood bar to fill the image.

Offline Homer

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Flood slower and lower the flood bar to fill the image.

about to say this too...stand that blade up a bit more. looks like you're not filling the ink well and using the squeeegie to fill the screen and pump the ink through.

* the small text "Credit Union", is that the way the font is or is the screen not washed out properly?
...keep doing what you're doing, you'll only get what you've got...

Offline im_mcguire

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Flood slower and lower the flood bar to fill the image.

about to say this too...stand that blade up a bit more. looks like you're not filling the ink well and using the squeeegie to fill the screen and pump the ink through.

* the small text "Credit Union", is that the way the font is or is the screen not washed out properly?
The small text has a slight stroke on it, and should look like that.  Ill try and fill it more, and post results here in a minute.

Offline ebscreen

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Also, is there a physical depth adjustment on your squeegees?
85 psi would bend a 90 duro squeegee in half.

Offline mimosatexas

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Looks to me like shitty ink, either partially cured or with pigment clumping together.  Can you print the exact same ink and screen manually without any issues?  Like literally take it off the cutlass and put it on a manual press and print it.

Offline BP

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I know you said you mixed it good. But the ink is still not flowing. You need to use a reducer by 5-10 %.
SHIRT HAPPENS!

Offline im_mcguire

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Also, is there a physical depth adjustment on your squeegees?
85 psi would bend a 90 duro squeegee in half.
This is a picture of the depth settings.  The squeegee is maxed out, and we typically adjust the regulator as needed

Offline ericheartsu

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Your angle might be off.

Also, your flood isn't that great, and could be causing some of that issue.
Night Owls
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Offline im_mcguire

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Looks to me like shitty ink, either partially cured or with pigment clumping together.  Can you print the exact same ink and screen manually without any issues?  Like literally take it off the cutlass and put it on a manual press and print it.

This is a new 5 gallon I got not too long ago.  Trust me, I know I am not looking to do 1 hit whites, but even with the Wilflex Lava white, I have had these same issues.

I even use 150 S mesh, and have issues with 2 strokes, sometimes not clearing all of the way.

Ill take this off press now, and see what it does on my manual.  This has been a fighting issue since we got this press, and just hearing everyone and how they run, it makes me think there is something I am doing that is wrong.

My flood bar if I lower it any more, it will scrape against the shirt, so if I had to double stroke the white, it would blur the first image. 

Maybe the reducing of ink is whats needed.

I have tried a 5 gallon of the following inks, with each at least needing 2 hits, most of the time 3 strokes:

Rutland Cotton and Low Bleed Street Fighter 2
Wilflex Lava White from Ryonet
Rutland Peak White
IC Blaze Cotton White


Offline blue moon

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it seemed in the video that the print is not peeling. not sure if that just looked that way, but if it is the case, you would need more off contact.

also, just to be on the safe side, get some Joe's ink. If you can't get that to clear, it is not the ink.

pierre
Yes, we've won our share of awards, and yes, I've tested stuff and read the scientific papers, but ultimately take everything I say with more than just a grain of salt! So if you are looking for trouble, just do as I say or even better, do something I said years ago!

Offline Northland

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It may not pertain to this particular problem.... but I've switched over to exclusively S-mesh and find I get much better clearing.
And, I think, smoother prints due to less lifting of the ink when the mesh snaps back up.

Offline Doug S

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It may not pertain to this particular problem.... but I've switched over to exclusively S-mesh and find I get much better clearing.
And, I think, smoother prints due to less lifting of the ink when the mesh snaps back up.
Us also on the s mesh and what a difference.  It was well worth the switch, when i had standard mesh, a 156 would always take 2 strokes and now a 150 is one and done.   
It's not a job if you love doing it.

Offline kingscreen

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First, I would suspect a bad screen.  Second, I personally hate triple durometer blades for White.
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