"He who marches out of step hears another drum." ~ Ken Kesey
Tony's the one that brings it back in. He makes some tweaks to match the colors we need. It becomes off shade from going on white tees, to colors, to underbase on mediums and darks. Sometimes we need two different inks when printing on white shirts and then same print on dark/black shirts. Keep in mind tho, we are most often, printing on comfort colors. They are slightly loftier and some bleeders. Sometimes there is a bleed blocker grey in there as well. For the most part, the areas that need to be, have 100% solid bleed blocker and solid white base. It might be the fact that this is what we have to deal with when using comfort colors.A lot of the ink characteristics that I had relied on in the past to make use of in my art, just don't work in this case.
Quote from: Dottonedan on February 11, 2018, 08:05:00 PMTony's the one that brings it back in. He makes some tweaks to match the colors we need. It becomes off shade from going on white tees, to colors, to underbase on mediums and darks. Sometimes we need two different inks when printing on white shirts and then same print on dark/black shirts. Keep in mind tho, we are most often, printing on comfort colors. They are slightly loftier and some bleeders. Sometimes there is a bleed blocker grey in there as well. For the most part, the areas that need to be, have 100% solid bleed blocker and solid white base. It might be the fact that this is what we have to deal with when using comfort colors.A lot of the ink characteristics that I had relied on in the past to make use of in my art, just don't work in this case.You will always need 2 different mixes to match pms on white T's and anything under based. More to the point, anything with a solid under base.Different experiences I guess. We don't normally do that in fact rarely, (and at other shops I've worked at, we never did two colors) for various garments and that was licensed products also. So I guess it depends on what the expectations are, preferences and ink types etc.As was mentioned with the grey base, your colors may still need to be tweaked further based on how white your base is Vs. how grey it is Bottom line is that we (they) try to get the base whites pretty opaque as it is, without adding a top white. Again, to me, whites are not opaque enough to only use one white. I often prefer a top white as well.Its not an enviable position. I have been there and it can be more than a little frustrating, especially when production is getting backed up. Tony will read this going: yup, yup, yup, oh you forgot half a dozen other fun things I get to deal with Heat on the garment during testing/beginning of the run/end of the run/mesh count variables/print speed.... ok, covered 2 of them We print almost entirely on solid base whites. The owner doesn't like to see halftone bases on solid art. The print is not bright enough and you can still see texture, no matter how good you are. We get color (bright) enough. They may no be an exact mach, but they are bright enough. The colors are as vibrant as needed. It's the mach and the whites that are challenging. Now, most people in house don't have an issue with our white look. It's just me. I don't like the whites. Too many fibers and makes it dingy, but that might just be the characteristic of printing on comfort colors.Sounds like you do a lot more solid color printing than halftone work? A lot more flashes involved? If so, Tony is definitely earning his paycheck.