Discharge results - opinions?

[endhymns]

Thanks everyone, this is all awesome information. I'll run a couple more test prints with a lower mesh count, less penetrant (I am using the Rutland penetrant) and a touch more activator and see how results vary.

While we are on the topic of additives, I am also using 3% Matsui Fixer N and 3% Matsui Softner MG which I believe is the max load for both products. Do these sound like good starting percentages for now or would it be beneficial to back off?

I'll report back if testing goes well.

[ebscreen]

Hard to tell from the pics, but the first one looks pretty good to me. I like to see ink taking the weave of the fabric like that,
for almost all ink systems/prints.

The question then becomes what changed between first and second. Ink? Printing? Dryer? Fabric?

With CCI white we typically use 5% activator, 3% penetrant and a dash of water depending on condition
of ink in bucket and environmental factors.
 

[RICK STEFANICK]

Thanks everyone, this is all awesome information. I'll run a couple more test prints with a lower mesh count, less penetrant (I am using the Rutland penetrant) and a touch more activator and see how results vary.

While we are on the topic of additives, I am also using 3% Matsui Fixer N and 3% Matsui Softner MG which I believe is the max load for both products. Do these sound like good starting percentages for now or would it be beneficial to back off?

I'll report back if testing goes well.

I would skip the fixer and softener. the rutland penetrant and a dash of water as mentioned will be sufficient

[mimosatexas]

Never used the softener.  The fixer is more meant for colors to prevent shade shift after washing (I thought).  I have never added it to white.

[RICK STEFANICK]

Never used the softener.  The fixer is more meant for colors to prevent shade shift after washing (I thought).  I have never added it to white.

20 years ago we would add softener when we would actually make base. With the bases available today and all the technology with colors, mesh etc I agree its just not needed. maybe TP will chime in as he is the resident expert on ink water base ink chemistry.

[tonypep]

I use to make WB/Discharge bases at Precision and elsewhere mainly for cut and sew programs and belt printing (cost around $3.00 per gallon!). You did not need to be a chemist but a bit of alchemy background helps. H20, concentrate, antifungicide, and anti foam usually did the trick. For DC the PH in the water had to be just so. No fixers/penetrants/lubes/LC additives/retarders were available. (We adjusted viscosity with urea and retarded with pharmacy bought glycerin) Today its usually a good idea to have a lube and penetrant on hand for when you need it. Printing WOW RFU DC flourescents  a wee bit of both helps minimize/ eliminate build up on successive screens. Towel printing? Penetrant for sure. You get the idea.
BTW Rick a little bird told me you have a homogenizer tell K to get off his butt and fix it

[RICK STEFANICK]

I use to make WB/Discharge bases at Precision and elsewhere mainly for cut and sew programs and belt printing (cost around $3.00 per gallon!). You did not need to be a chemist but a bit of alchemy background helps. H20, concentrate, antifungicide, and anti foam usually did the trick. For DC the PH in the water had to be just so. No fixers/penetrants/lubes/LC additives/retarders were available. (We adjusted viscosity with urea and retarded with pharmacy bought glycerin) Today its usually a good idea to have a lube and penetrant on hand for when you need it. Printing WOW RFU DC flourescents  a wee bit of both helps minimize/ eliminate build up on successive screens. Towel printing? Penetrant for sure. You get the idea.
BTW Rick a little bird told me you have a homogenizer tell K to get off his butt and fix it

TP- That thing will never see the light of day again unless you drive down and want a picture of you and it.