Quick question on discharge white

[rockerdude]

Ok so im doing test prints on a D.C. White job.
Details are..
100% ringspun bayside
Cci D.C. White ... via ryonet
6% activator
Manual press - driving in with 2-3 hits..  70 duro
156 mesh
8' forced air dryer (electric)
1.5 minutes in tunnel
Hitting 330 with doughnut probe (not full time though)
Hits 290 drops to 205 in middle (where air hits it)then up to 330 towards end of dryer

Pic is the result pre and post wash

Is this "normal" and if not what should I do to fix the issues of cracking?
Forgot to add that I'm pulling a little bit on the tee for photo... !

[tonypep]

Try exact same test w/ Rutland DC White plus

[rockerdude]

Unfortunately.. I don't have time to try another ink. I have 300 tees that have to be done by Sunday night.
I have normal off contact.. should I try not as much oc? Maybe thin the ink with water?

[brandon]

Are you printing that CCI White straight out of the bucket with agent?

That is a no. It is meant to be modified and while we use CCI every day and I am a huge fan they do need to have more info available to the general public.

Their White Discharge is meant to be printed with a third of their Discharge Base mixed in. Mix well plus activator and water (that part depends on your printing equipment gas dryer is preferred).

Printing the white out of bucket can result in "cracking" like that while doing a mix will prevent this. We do it every day no issues.

[rockerdude]

Thanks for the info guys.
Brandon... it is cci (sold under ryonets branding)
So I'm not sure which cci white discharge it truly is?
I've never seen any info at all about mixing it with a base?

[RICK STEFANICK]

First of all you need to really crank it into the garment and if you have some penetrant add 2%. I'M not sure a 70 is stiff enough manually printing. Also 3 hits may be too much. I would flood/p/flood/p. be sure your squeegee is really sharp and don't use much angle. We also print CCI D-WHITE everyday and DO NOT add base. we add 2% penetrant with a dab of water. Tony suggested the Rutland white plus, That ink is thinner and does penetrate a little better that's im sure why he recommended it. I just don't like the hand. In my opinion the d-white has a softer end result.

[rockerdude]

You guys are awesome! I'll see what I come up with this evening. I'll see if I can find someplace local here in Indy to get the penetrant.

[rockerdude]

Do you guys think the cure is alright with those numbers? Of should I run them through twice? I have two dryers I could run straight from one into the other if need be?

[tonypep]

One way to find out

[brandon]

Just give everything a shot for your shop and see what works and what does not for your shop. Just remember to document it all. Then repeat what what works.

[rockerdude]

Thanks again guys!!

[screenxpress]

I got in a little late on this one.  I have been doing some low volume runs using Ryonet Discharge White on both Tultex black and Gildan black.

Just the Discharge White out of the container with 6% actuator

I did 2 fairly strong flood and push strokes.  I don't have a forced air dryer, just an old Vastex Econored set on 650.  I slowed the speed way down, but even at that, shirt was only in the chamber about 40 seconds and exited around 450 with steam wafting up and out.  I did run them through a second time although I'm not sure I needed to.  All were washed and the print was very acceptable to me.  You can see some cracks between the shirt fibers.  Perhaps a stronger stroke might eliminate the showing of any black in the image.  This was some trial runs as I've started into the discharge world.  I'm okay with the Ryonet discharge white, at least for now.

Below is the picture on the Gildan.  I left the size as large as it would load to show the detail.  I don't have the Tultex prints here now.   

Taking tips from several of the board members here, I've also mixed Union Ultrasoft Golden Yellow (70%) with Ryonet Ryocharge (30%) and 6%.  3 hits with about the same pressure and all the same dryer stuff from above and one of those, after washing, is below.

I'm sure I'm not doing it right, lol, but sure looks and feels great to me.  Open to any suggestions, by the way.

[screenxpress]

I'M not sure a 70 is stiff enough manually printing.

Rick,
I was using a triple 70/90/70.  Is that a durometer you would recommend for manual printing of discharge?

[ZooCity]

You need better penetration.  The titanium dioxide and non-rfu body of some dc whites will cause it to form a crust over the fabric v. driving into it.  Recipe for disaster after washing.   Quick test at back of dryer is the stretch and return.  If there is excessive cracking you aren't penetrating enough.  If you can see ink down in between the jersey weave wales you're probably good to go.

We would mod CCI D-White out of the bucket for better flow, specifically penetrant and then equal parts distilled water to activator.

Rutland Plus White is excellent product and will do better than the CCI overall but you can get quality prints from CCI's product.  Matsui makes some good stuff too.

I don't like your temps for the majority of the tunnel but if there is adequate air exchange electric will work.  Up the dryer's temp, you should be good up to 350˚ max for most dc inks/garments.

Hope that helps!

[rockerdude]

Thanks Zoocity!!!