Plasticharge Question

[screenxpress]

While we're on the topic of Plasticharge, might I ask another question: How does the odor compare to regular discharge? I've yet to try plasticharge, as DC didn't work we'll for the level of ventilation I [don't] have in my shop.

The Ryocharge uses ZFS and even though I do not have a forced air dryer, I had my wife come out and sniff around while I was curing and she (very very sensitive nose) did not detect any offensive odor. 

What I do have is a shroud that goes over the top and hangs over all the sides of the dryer to capture any wafting heat and odors which are pulled by a small tunnel fan (flex tubing) to the outside.  That may have done the trick, dunno.  Pic below of the dryer with the shroud.

[screenxpress]

We use Union's Plasticharge, sporadically, and we only clean it up with water, we do use the pressure washer judiciously to do it.

Steve

Steve, when you do use Union's Plasticharge, what ink are you mixing with it?  Maxopake/Mixopake or?

Maxopaque, we've used that system for years, but again, our use of it is sporadic at best. But as far as cleaning, it comes right off the press and into the sink in the screen room, which has a filtration unit so the solids don't go downstream. Water alone does it for us...

steve

Thanks.  I know Maxopake has a high pigment load which is probably why it worked with the Ryocharge.  Evidently though, after talking to their tech yesterday, water cannot be used for a press wash for theirs.  Next time I try one, I'll see if the regular press wash cleans up for me.

[Biverson]

I've used Virus discharge and Plasticharge. I use the latter semi-regularily and don't find it that smelly nat all. Virus was more odorous.


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[Prince Art]

Thanks for the input on odor.

@Frog: Thanks for the PDF. I was unaware that Wilflex offered a non-formaldehyde formula.

@screenxpress: I've see pics of your dryer shroud before. I intend to make one much like it as soon as I can find the time. I need to trap & vent heat as much as fumes at this point!

[screenxpress]

@screenxpress: I've see pics of your dryer shroud before. I intend to make one much like it as soon as I can find the time. I need to trap & vent heat as much as fumes at this point!

Attached is a diagram showing the basic assembly and parts.  I think it only took about an hour to assemble it.  It took additional time to set the hood in place and finish making all the connections.

[3Deep]

I've used union's plasticharge a bit and what I've done is a 30/70 mix using more ink than plasticharge to get a nicer color and this is using union's ultrasoft inks, so I'm thinking that using a heavier pigment ink you might go 45/55 with 45 being you ink load.

[screenxpress]

I've used union's plasticharge a bit and what I've done is a 30/70 mix using more ink than plasticharge to get a nicer color and this is using union's ultrasoft inks, so I'm thinking that using a heavier pigment ink you might go 45/55 with 45 being you ink load.

Fantastic!  Probably 95% of my ink containers are Union Ultrasoft and there are a lot of them.  I was afraid they would be useless for Discharge.

I have notes from some of the other printers, not using Ultrasoft, that they are using 60% ink/40% discharge.

Thanks for the information.   

[zanegun08]

They are using 60% ink/40% discharge.

That is correct, you don't have to use 50/50.  I however think you would be more successful just printing a discharge under base (can be plasticharge base) and then regular plastisols on top.

With both water base and plasticharge there is often a pretty significant color shift, so dialing in colors is much more difficult than doing a discharge underbase and plastisol on top, the end product will have a bit more hand, but better wash fastness and color vibrancy, and it's a hell of a lot easier to print.

Not to take away from direct discharge and plasticharge prints, as if you can master it you'll get great prints that last a long time, but the easier route is to just do a discharge underbase and even a soft hand plastisol on top or mesh up for a thinner deposit.

I posted this in another thread, it's an 12 color print, discharge under base with plastisol on top, which still had some color shifting from printing on top of discharge, and much easier than doing a 11 color discharge print as we printed 1500 of them.



I always had a ton of fun playing with the inks though, so if you can experiment go for it, but discharge under base with plastisol on top is a great end product and much easier to achieve and duplicate for future orders.

Still cure the crap out of it though as if you don't the ink can just fall off the base, but same with discharge if you don't cure it can fade super bad after first wash.

[screenxpress]

Thanks Zane.  I'm wondering something and it's something from a post I asked about over a week back.  I had this job that was a halftone underbase and two top colors, both solid colors on Gildan Black.  I know I received an answer that if I was going to do that job with a discharge base, the underbase screen would be 100% image, not the 60% I currently have.

For a test run, what do you think the outcome "might" be if I tried using the 60% halftone screen with clear discharge (not 100%) and printed the two top colors with the Union Ultrasoft inks?  Is there enough there for the clear discharge to take a bite or will it just come out splotchy?  Job won't be reprinted so was trying to avoid exposing another screen just for a test run.

[Prince Art]

@screenxpress: I've see pics of your dryer shroud before. I intend to make one much like it as soon as I can find the time. I need to trap & vent heat as much as fumes at this point!

Attached is a diagram showing the basic assembly and parts.  I think it only took about an hour to assemble it.  It took additional time to set the hood in place and finish making all the connections.

Thanks!

[zanegun08]

For a test run, what do you think the outcome "might" be if I tried using the 60% halftone screen with clear discharge (not 100%) and printed the two top colors with the Union Ultrasoft inks?  Is there enough there for the clear discharge to take a bite or will it just come out splotchy?

I would give it a shot, nothing to lose really.  If the 60% base was good enough with plastisol then it should give similar results although a bit dimmer with discharge as you won't get the dot gain you would with plastisol.  I would really try to saturate the shirt to get as much base down as possible to give a good layer for the top colors to go down on, even with the halftones.

We do halftone bases with discharge all the time, but more for sim process than spot colors.

[screenxpress]

All wet on wet?

[zanegun08]

All wet on wet?

We always flash the under base as much as possible.  I know some people claim they get away with all wet, but in that case we would get blurry edges.

[screenxpress]

Thanks, that was what I wanted to know.  Off to press, lol.

[screenxpress]

Mixed results.  More testing needed, lol.

On the flash on the clear discharge base....Long or short?