I need a turnbuckle piece like this... help!

[Shawn (EIP)]

One of my plastic rod ends for my workhorse snapped off inside the turn buckle, I figured I could drill it out but ended up doing worse damage. It cost me 35.00 to have WH mail me 5 plastic rodends , rodends cost 5 bucks each my total was 65.00 which I think is outrageous. I dont care if it matches this one but what could I use as a replacement? I thought of a coupling nut but I'm pretty sure each end of this turn buckle has threads for right handed and left handed bolts at each end. A coupling nut has the same threads through out, so that's out...  the thread is 3/8 24 fine  2 inches long. Ideas? My local Home Depot and Lowes were not much help much less have anything threaded 3/8 24 .

[Screened Gear]

Order the piece. You will not find one. WH makes that part. How did you break it, bringing the screen down in the wrong spot? I broke one of those bolts that way.

[mk162]

here's a question, why are the bolts nylon?  That seems like a weak part of the machine.  Are they designed as a fail safe to prevent another part from breaking?

[Shawn (EIP)]

Order the piece. You will not find one. WH makes that part. How did you break it, bringing the screen down in the wrong spot? I broke one of those bolts that way.

The shop that owned the press before had all the rodends tightened down so when you made side to side adjustments it put too much strain on them because they were not turning but bending with the adjustment. I thought it was me lol! You would think they would have real bearings in those things to take the turn. I just loosened them up a bit so they could make the turn. Anyhow.... Im thinking have my brother take 2 1 inch coupling nuts and weld them together so the threads are reversed, that make sence? I'm not paying for something that could be sent USPS for 5 or 7 bucks vrs UPS  35.00. Screeeeew that! (no pun intended).

I would like to replace all these rod ends with these at some point... if ever needed.
http://www.reidsupply.com/detail.aspx?itm=I-522

[spotcolorsupply]

here's a question, why are the bolts nylon?  That seems like a weak part of the machine.  Are they designed as a fail safe to prevent another part from breaking?

They are designed to fail... If you bring the head down on the registration fork wrong they snap instead of bending and messing up the assembly...

Endless...

You can buy aluminum versions from Grainger... I had a cust in TN do that. He said it took a lot of slop out of the micros too.

[Shawn (EIP)]

here's a question, why are the bolts nylon?  That seems like a weak part of the machine.  Are they designed as a fail safe to prevent another part from breaking?

they answer that here

Workhorse Manual T-Shirt Printers

[Shawn (EIP)]

here's a question, why are the bolts nylon?  That seems like a weak part of the machine.  Are they designed as a fail safe to prevent another part from breaking?

They are designed to fail... If you bring the head down on the registration fork wrong they snap instead of bending and messing up the assembly...

Endless...

You can buy aluminum versions from Grainger... I had a cust in TN do that. He said it took a lot of slop out of the micros too.

I'll keep that in mind the next time one should break. Now that I think about this just like they described in the video my Jennings will jump out of regi when you tighten everything down and then will have to be re-adjusted again (annoying), his rod ends are metal not plastic so maybe WH is on to something.

This one is cheaper then the metal ones, still plastic but they have a better/workable center piece

[3Deep]

Now that you,ve allready monkeyed the pc up let me tell you how to remove the nut if that happens again...first get a very small screwdriver heat the end of it up and stick into the plastic that broken off on the inside..let it cool and screw it right on out.

Darryl