s mesh and halftone/mesh determiners

[nobrainsd]

I have had a little vacation from screen printing. Can't wait to print again! Picked up some 225 s mesh to try with water base in an 8 color design 185 ppi indexed on lights. Had some clogging issues last time on regular mesh. The s mesh arrived today. Damn. I had to put on a stronger pair of glasses to get a better look. Sure doesn't look anything like the 230 I've been using. I figure that is all the open area and the thin threads. But I found my mesh determiner and laid it on the fabric to check it. A clear moire star at 110. I'm not all huffy thinking that my vendor sent me 110. Sure doesn't look like a 110! So, after that explanation, is this correct? I don't find it hard to believe that the mesh tool wasn't made for a different open space and thread size than standard. I'm sure that someone can enlighten me. Anyone figure out a conversion to the old school scale? I'm going to buy some s mesh in a other sizes and I guess I'll start noting where they fall and maybe marking the rolls better

[Prōdigium]

What you may be failing to notice is that most mesh determiners have several graphs for mesh, the AWT tool most commonly used has a large area that many printers use...wrongly, as its meant for MULTI-filament mesh and its not likely that you are using a multi-filament mesh so if that is what your using you will of course get an incorrect reading.

That all said, you are correct that a mesh tool has no regard for thread diameters. Its a simple interference pattern that uses a moire effect as a tool rather than that nasty problem we associate it with in printing.

One aspect that you should look at is that all (quality) mesh will have the mesh's information printed on the sewn edges on one side of the fabric. It would typically include the thread count in both US & metric, the thread diameter and the manufacturers name. Typically this information is printed almost every meter or so..if your mesh does not have this information than its dubious as to both the stated mesh count and certainly its quality. I would ask your supplier to provide a photo of the bolt of mesh with those details.

Lastly, its possible that you were indeed shipped the wrong mesh. Maybe not a 110, but maybe something altogether wrong compared to what you were expecting. Curiously, what brand of mesh was stated by your supplier?

[nobrainsd]

Yes, it is really smart mesh and it does have the manufacturers info printed along one edge. I really hadn't noticed the mesh specs were included. I have been really slack about marking my screens, that will have to change. It has been nice to occasionally toss the halftone/screen analyzer on random cut panels or stretched screens to check that I'm using the correct mesh. It will be interesting to see when I get some other sizes of s mesh whether I will be able to tell them apart easily like I can generally do with standard mesh. But there will be no more tossing cut panels of various mesh counts into one bin and I will try to make sure that panels I cut, but don't use right off have the printed specs on them or mark them. Not a big deal, but I was surprised by how different the 225 s mesh appears when compared to my 230 standard. Looking forward to experiencing the printing qualities of the s mesh.

Next up is a round of cleaning 25 newmans to make sure there aren't any rough spots in the channels.

[nobrainsd]

I checked out the AWT determiner. I have a different brand and it is more like the multifilament section of the AWT. Never had any problem with it on mono filament, but I learn something new everyday! Will definitely get an AWT and use the right section. Thank you.

[Frog]

My original one was meant for halftones and just did double duty as a mesh determiner.

[nobrainsd]

Yes Frog,  I'm ancient and as I don't use the tool very much it is from the late 70's   Going to splurge on something to go along with the new mesh.

[mk162]

Or could you not just use a screen with a known mesh count and mark the results?  I would imagine it would read the mesh counts the same every time.

[Prōdigium]

If your building roller frames and you always want to ensure you know the right mesh count...use a sharpie black marker on the corner of the mesh, then seal the writing with super glue. This way the mark will always stay in place and cannot be reclaimed off...I also used to put the "default" mesh tension on my  screens too so a person could quickly drop a meter on the frame and check it without having to refer to a chart and retention it the same to the set number.