Author Topic: Plastisol Transfers for 100% Polyester  (Read 1305 times)

Offline Wildcard

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Plastisol Transfers for 100% Polyester
« on: March 19, 2017, 09:19:01 PM »
Hi All, I'm looking for any advice or tips on printing transfers for 100% poly drifit tees. Lightweight and medium stretch (no lycra) fabric.
My main concern is enabling stretch in the print and managing cure and colour bleed.
Stretch: I plan to use Wilflex Performance White as a base which has some stretch and also bleed blocking. I am thinking of leaving the adhesive powder off since I have heard the adhesive restricts stretch. I do have some clear printable adhesive as an option, but never used it before and not sure if its worth the effort of an extra screen to get a stretchy adhesive backing?
Cure: I would normally use regular Epic colours over a white base if doing a multi colour transfer, but will this work with a low cure base white? I use the print/flash/print approach rather than the multiple tunnel cures
Bleed: I'm not too worried about bleed because of the short heat pressing time (10s), but there may be something I'm not considering here with the low cure white.

Any advice is welcomed and appreciated. I did search for this topic first but only found pages and pages of industry news posts...

Thanks. James


Offline Robert Clark

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Re: Plastisol Transfers for 100% Polyester
« Reply #1 on: March 20, 2017, 07:57:53 AM »

 

How to print low temperature transfers.


Before explaining how to print a low temperature transfer, I think it best to explain when and why you should use this technique. It began as a method to prevent 100% polyester digital camo shirts from bleeding through white ink. If you have printed the digital camo, you know what I am talking about. One Stroke Inks introduced the OSI Poly Transfer System which included white ink, paper, and adhesive powder to prevent these problems. Once this started to gain traction, many screen printers realized that printing on paper is easier than printing directly on top of most uniforms. If they messed up a print, they simply threw out a piece of paper instead of a $40.00 moisture management uniform. Since it was so simple and easy, it became necessary to use this technique on more fabrics with more colors. Our customers needed a soft feel with good stretch ability and a less glossy appearance. Bravo Flex Series became the go to ink for non-sublimated low temperature transfers as it fits the role very well. Now screen printers have the ease of printing on cold peel transfer paper and heat pressing onto uniforms, t-shirts, hats, bags, and jackets. It allowed them to print difficult locations without slowing production.

With that information out of the way, here is step-by-step instructions for low temperature transfers:

*You will require Bravo Flex Series inks, T-75 cold peel transfer paper, and OSI Poly Transfer Powder.
 1. Expose an 86 or 110 monofilament screen with the art work in reverse. It must be a mirror image as it will eventually be flipped over to heat press the garment.
 2. Run your cold peel paper through the dryer to pre-shrink it and to remove any excess moisture. Moisture will cause problems later as you powder the print.
 3. If you only have t-shirt platens, apply just a little bit of mist adhesive. You do not want it too sticky as it will transfer to the back of the paper. This can cause storage problems as well as get the adhesive on your heat press. If you want to avoid all of this, order a vacuum platen. This is a platen made for paper printing. It has many little holes and sucks the paper down to the platen as opposed to using adhesives.
 4. Print the ink on the paper. You get one pull of the squeegee. One pull. This may sound odd to an experienced printer but it is the deal when screen printing on paper.
 5. Take the paper off the platen and apply adhesive powder. This can be accomplished many different ways. The simplest way involves a large bin of the powder and simply sprinkling or pouring the adhesive powder over the print. Shake off the excess back into the bin.
 6. This is very important. Tap the paper on a table to remove any powder that is attached to the paper. You can also use air if available to blow off the excess powder. Any powder on the paper where there is no ink will leave a residue on the shirt. It will come out but it is time consuming.
 7. Send the paper down your conveyor dryer at normal temperatures for curing a cotton t-shirt. 320F – 330F will be perfect when using a thermo label.
 8. You are ready to press. If the transfer was specifically for sublimated polyester, 275F for 10 seconds is perfect. Otherwise, try 300F for 10 seconds on most fabrics.
 9. Peel cold. If this sounds like a pain, it isn’t. Simply press everything and then come back and peel everything. No time wasted.
 10. Stretch it. Wash it. Abuse it. This is a very durable print.
 *Please keep in mind that not all inks, powders, and papers can combine to make this system work. We have tested the Bravo Flex and obviously the OSI Poly Transfer System white ink with this paper and powder and it works. We have seen this fail when other combinations have been attempted.



Robert Clark
One Stroke Inks
Senior Account Manager
rclark@osinks.com
(800)942-4447

Offline Wildcard

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Re: Plastisol Transfers for 100% Polyester
« Reply #2 on: March 20, 2017, 09:43:43 PM »
Thanks for the detailed reply Robert. In my (somewhat unique) case, there is no supplier of OSI products and so I need to make do with what I have available.

I use Wilflex inks and have had decent success with simple transfers using powder adhesive and regular inks. I now want to step this up and print more stretchy performance garments with lower risk, as you have pointed out. I recently tried the Performance White which seemed to do a good job and have more stretch than regular poly white, and I have a printable adhesive that I have not tried yet. My concern right now is that I would be using regular cure top colour inks over the lower temp cure base, and I'm not sure if this is problematic. I'm guessing that if each colour is already flash gelled, then the last layer is low cure it shouldn't be a problem as long as the pressing time is enough to cure all the colours.

I have read some suggestions to mix the printable adhesive into the base white ink for the transfers. Is there any risk associated with this approach?