Those rubbery silicone inks?

[Dottonedan]

What is the name of those rubbery inks that people like. Is it Silicone?


I'm wondering about possibly using those (if they are good as bleed blockers for our athletic numbing on backs of jerseys etc.  Currently, we cannot use the Onestroke digital black on bleeders because our numbering system is not designed for adding a 3rd color as a base. (Two color number system). So the inks need to be laid down very heavy...too heavy. It's ridiculous to do this on thin poly sports tees.


Would the silicone inks be a good fit for this? Need opaque, softer and bleed resistant. Is there such a thing?
Who is selling the Silicone inks?

[numbercruncher]

Nazdar's Image Star series is Silicone based

[robbmears]

You are in a very difficult situation as the silicone inks will also require a special underbase on sublimated 100% polyester.  This certainly will not help your current situation but the Ultimate Numbering Machine will allow for the third color underbase.  Another option would be to try our ELT Zip Transfers.  We have seen very good success heat pressing sublimated polyester with these inks and the ELT Zip Performance Powder.  If you would like some instruction here, definitely let me know.

[jwcarder]

We use Nazdar's silicone inks also. Works great for printing fabrics prone to migration without using a blocker base. Only products we have had issues with have been sublimated shirts like Badgers digital camo.

[Colin]

Yep, Nazdar and Rutland have one on the market.

On really bad bleeders you can still have some issues with dyes from the poly, so test test test

I know Rutland has a Black blocker for just this reason.  I assume Nazdar does as well.

Have you tried the ELT-S and curing at 250 or so?  Slow down the dryer so it is in the tunnel for over a minute maybe?  If you have questions, talk with Rocky at One Stroke.  From reading between the lines it sounds like the cure temp is at least 250 maybe lower.  But not everyone is as anal about dryer temps and cure as some of us on this board.  So he is reallly hesitant to talk about low low cure temps. Thumbs up to Rocky.

[Colin]

I walked away for a few minutes while writing and everyone posts great info!

We use the One stroke adhesive powder here.  Run our transfers through at full cure temp and then heat press at 270 for 7 seconds.  Works wonderfully.  We have not had a need yet to try lower/faster times, but we have not done bad bleeders/sublimation yet.

LOVE the powder though!

[dirkdiggler]

Control your heat, and use Rutland Super Poly White on 100% Poly Jerseys and its a breeze with zero bleed issues.  Unless its some printed fabric like digicamo!  then you need blocker.

[Wildcard]

I have a poly drifit type shirt from Vietnam, with a print that has a smooth but really sticky feel to it, rather than rubbery. If I fold the print on itself and store it, it almost bonds to itself.
I had assumed it was silicone ink, but maybe someone can clarify if this is a recognizable property of silicone ink?

[Colin]

More than one way to make silicone  

What you have there could be silicone.  I remember getting shirts years ago that were printed with silicone manufactured over seas that would slowly start to pick up lint and look dirty.  They were slightly sticky.

It could also be a rubber base ink.  Those inks will typically air dry/cure.  They have amazing stretch properties and are really durable.  Don't know if it will slowly bond to itself though.

Lots of stuff used over seas that can t be used here.

[Wildcard]

Just out of interest, how would someone pick up a garment and recognize a silicone ink vs plastisol vs HSA?

[Rob Coleman]

Just out of interest, how would someone pick up a garment and recognize a silicone ink vs plastisol vs HSA?

Stretch it. As far as you can. Then further. Nothing ha elasticity of silicone.   Also, silicone will "feel" a bit "rubbier". Not all silicones are the same; some may feel tackier.

If silicone is printed correctly on polyester material, it will be significantly lighter in ink film weight than either HSA or plastisol.  Drapes much better as well.


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[Wildcard]

Just out of interest, how would someone pick up a garment and recognize a silicone ink vs plastisol vs HSA?

Stretch it. As far as you can. Then further. Nothing ha elasticity of silicone.   Also, silicone will "feel" a bit "rubbier". Not all silicones are the same; some may feel tackier.

If silicone is printed correctly on polyester material, it will be significantly lighter in ink film weight than either HSA or plastisol.  Drapes much better as well.


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Yup, I tried stretching a print and it just kept on going so it must be a silicone ink. Very cool for the stretch and opacity, but the tackiness makes the garment really awkward to fold and pack...

Thanks for the info!

[alan802]

I just went to another shop down the street to see how they did printing some silicone ink on Friday.  They printed a bunch of stretchy poly/spandex garments and I cannot believe how bad the bleeding was.  I thought one of the selling points to silicone was great bleed resistance?

[sqslabs]

I just went to another shop down the street to see how they did printing some silicone ink on Friday.  They printed a bunch of stretchy poly/spandex garments and I cannot believe how bad the bleeding was.  I thought one of the selling points to silicone was great bleed resistance?

I'm pretty sure the bleed resistance is due to a low temperature cure, not any type of dye blocking capabilities. Maybe they were running the dryer too hot?

[tonypep]

Almost undoubtedly correct