Labelling Screens

[mt_signex]

I print on Oracal 751 and laminate, they last years, in fact i've yet to have one fail.  I have "230 - 4" which is 230 mesh, #4 preset on exposure unit.

I just do a .75" x 1.25" or so decal and it works great, i print a sheet every so often for new frames and you place it on both sides depending which one might possibly stick out when in a rack, standing up, etc.

I'm about to get some screens re-meshed and i think im going to serialize them so i can track their usage and tension levels as they get worked, etc..  I'll likely stick some white vinyl on some that i can write on with a sharpie and then place laminate over the top for screens that do not get reclaimed and need to be kept for repeat jobs.

751 is thin, and has a permanent adhesive, yet it will come off easily if needed, the laminate keeps the chemicals from cleaning off the solvent ink.

[Maxie]

This is what mine look like, we stretch our own screens so if we change the mesh count we just spray over the previous color.
We use mainly  4 mesh counts so we have 4 colors.

[Mr Tees!!]

...We use a Brother P-Touch labelmaker, and the .94" tape. They make a high-performance yellow tape that is .75", but we found the regular white labels to adhere just as well. These are thermal-printed, so there is no ink to wash off. There is one on each end of the screen, so it doesnt matter which end you are looking at.

...The smaller sticker is something we started doing on our s-mesh screens, it denotes when the screen was restretched, so we can get an idea of how long they are lasting over time. Those were printed with a basic little Dymo househole label maker. Same sort of thermal-printing type, and seems to be just as durable, and aheres jus as well.

Heres a link to the PTouch as staples, seems like its on a good sale right now.

http://www.staples.com/PT-P700-PC-Connectable-Label-Maker-for-PC-and-Mac/product_280862

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

I favor just cutting black or Navy blue High Performance sign vinyl.

It takes a little work to cut, weed, and mask....but the numbers won't come off.

We currently aren't using our Newmans, just statics, and almost all S-Mesh. But I still cut for example 135-48 etc and put the decals in corners that are easy to see with my particular equipment. Do I really need the mesh diameter? I'm not sure, but I like knowing it.

[CBCB]

I favor just cutting black or Navy blue High Performance sign vinyl.

It takes a little work to cut, weed, and mask....but the numbers won't come off.

We currently aren't using our Newmans, just statics, and almost all S-Mesh. But I still cut for example 135-48 etc and put the decals in corners that are easy to see with my particular equipment. Do I really need the mesh diameter? I'm not sure, but I like knowing it.

Yep, this is what we do. Probably overkill but looks great and easy to read. Takes like five minutes to apply to the corners on new screens. We used red for the mesh count, gold for the S or LX, and white for the identity number. We gave each screen a number to track its life. Kinda curious how many runs we get to a screen.

We picked an easy-to-weed font for the numbers and I can weed the whole thing in one pull. We keep it all in a tackle box type thing.


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[Prints Charming]

We use regular vinyl,and use same color code as Shurlock frames. They don't come off with the chemicals and we can scrape off with razor blade if we change mesh count.we mark all 4 sides so I can see it from anywhere in shop. A 2 in wide strip.

[Prince Art]

I use a hammer and a small chisel. Very light taps. In addition to mesh count, I also scratch in the date of purchase and vendor contact information. It only take a day to prep about 6 screens like this. 


Seriously though, some good ideas here. (And talk about more than one way to skin a cat!)