Coating technique on low mesh.

[Dottonedan]

I want to get into discussing the coating technique and why you use that. Each emulsion and mesh supplier will give you the optimum EOM for what you want to achieve but to do that, you need a EOM meter. Not many actually buy these gadgets needed but you should. Once you do, you will figure out why.
Without one, the best you can do is to practice the glistening technique mentioned on the HOME page articles.

We always talk about the desired "one hit white" but how is that even possible?  Does that mean you would never need a top white?  No. What that means is that you don't have to hit your underbase 2 times or Print Flash Print Flash then top colors.

When you coat your screen and you see knuckles like the image below in your stencil, it's not enough. Can you get by? Yes, but in truth, it's not even average. It's sub par for image quality and print production efficiency. Here's where you step over a dollar to save a dime. Thicker emulsion provides a higher wall of image edge. Crisp and clean ink deposits and faster production.

Low EOM promotes poor edge definition, enables the ink to squash out and leave blurred edges as well as leaves those saw toothed jagged edges on angles and curved type in addition to requiring more print strokes, slower stroke, excessive angles to cover properly.

Lets see where you stack up with everyone else.

[bimmridder]

Dan, you should look at 2ILL's youtube on coating. Every bit as informative as his "How to print a t shirt"

(sorry, couldn't resist)

[ericheartsu]

I'd love to know what the best EOM meter is for practical use, as well as what the best results should be. I'd like to get one this year.

[Frog]

Easily half of my work is on 160's  and low and behold, my usual technique was left off of your choices.
Though I am not locked into numbers since I use the glisten method, it most often works out to 2/1 with the round edge, with a high solids emulsions.
Actually pretty much the same down to 125's and 140's, and the occasional 110's

[Dottonedan]

Lets assume the heaviest deposit or intended coverage is on the shirt side.  Typically the last stroke is on the squeegee side pushing the emulsion out to the shirt side right?

[jvanick]

or you could be like us and for whatever reason we are achieving 20% EOM on the shirt side with 1 round-edge coat on the shirt side, nothing on the squeegee side.

took us forever to figure that one out.

[Frog]

Lets assume the heaviest deposit or intended coverage is on the shirt side.  Typically the last stroke is on the squeegee side pushing the emulsion out to the shirt side right?

Yep, exactly. With the glisten method, one makes as many strokes as needed on the shirt side, to see a sheen (glisten) on the squeegee side, then one stroke there to push it back to where it belongs.
So, for me, and my round edge, on these lower meshes, it's usually 2 and 1.

[Dottonedan]

or you could be like us and for whatever reason we are achieving 20% EOM on the shirt side with 1 round-edge coat on the shirt side, nothing on the squeegee side.

took us forever to figure that one out.

I've seen one shop do that. It was a mega shop So, it's true that one method doesn't fit all, but it all depends on what you are trying to achieve and why.

[BP]

What is the best gauge for the money??

[Colin]

Monster Max scoop coater.  19" W.  23x31 Shurelock Frames.  Murakami Panels.

Saati PHU:

150S Mesh is close to 50% eom - I know its high, but I get amazing white bases.
150/180 Mesh 25%-30% eom.  No issues with dot/edge resolution or dot gain/edge detail when printing.

Those are all 1x2 coat.  There is only a sharp side to the coater.

110 and lower I do 2x2 at least.

The PHU is kinda like Honey, difficult to find a good coat technique since it reacts differently that most emulsions.

Saati Graphic HU:

225S Approx 25% eom We max out at 60LPI, holds dots and prints like a champ.
225/270/330 - 20% or so

1x1 coat slow. 

[GaryG]

For low mesh (125 and under) we have found 2/2 sharp, last swipe on squeegee side is ample.
Round will of course deposit more, but enough emulsion "wicks" out of trough with sharp side,
preventing possible drips, etc. Believe it or not a 25 year old AWT coater. Protect them there edges. 

[jvanick]

or you could be like us and for whatever reason we are achieving 20% EOM on the shirt side with 1 round-edge coat on the shirt side, nothing on the squeegee side.

took us forever to figure that one out.

I've seen one shop do that. It was a mega shop So, it's true that one method doesn't fit all, but it all depends on what you are trying to achieve and why.

I was being tongue in cheek.. having such a high build of emulsion was causing us difficulties in other areas.. and no matter what we did we couldn't figure out how to get it lower... 1x1 sharp was around 6%, and then would build almost immediately into the 35-40% range with a 1x2... 

Actually tho, interesting to see that Colin is getting the same results as I am with the same emulsion... if I do a 1x1 round, I get around 50% EOM.

[ericheartsu]

we just bought a used Saati Gauge.

Can someone run down the basics of how to measure the EOM?

[Maff]

Saati PHU:

150S Mesh is close to 50% eom - I know its high, but I get amazing white bases.

The PHU is kinda like Honey, difficult to find a good coat technique since it reacts differently that most emulsions.

Hey Colin, What exposure unit are you using? 
We have a 850w MH unit and been using PHU also, but we seem to have a tougher time on our S-mesh getting it to crosslink completely through when we coat them thicker.  I don't have an EOM gauge yet, but just going on our trials and experience.

[jvanick]

Hey Colin, What exposure unit are you using? 
We have a 850w MH unit and been using PHU also, but we seem to have a tougher time on our S-mesh getting it to crosslink completely through when we coat them thicker.  I don't have an EOM gauge yet, but just going on our trials and experience.

are you sure it's a crosslinking issue?  What's your symptoms? 

if it's edge breakdown/squeegee wear, it's could be an adhesion issue...

once we started using a mesh abrader (Saati DirectPrep-1) before putting the screen into production the first time (yes I know this flys against all current advice)...  all of our edge breakdown issues went away.