MSP 3140 advice

[SI]

I hate to post this cause i feel like the Newb that I am but,,,,

    I have been printing for about a year now.  Up until 1 week ago I have been using a DIY exposure unit consisting of a 1000k watt metal halide lamp I got from Menards.  The distance between lamp and glass is correct, etc.  I did a lot of research on it when i built it.  So my exposure time for photopolymer was 30-35 seconds, and time for SP-1400 emulsion was 90 seconds roughly.  I didn't experience any slime inside the screen when washing out and I really never had any problems with this system.  The issue i had is the lamp has to be always on and its just a pain getting the vacuum on my DIY system I had.  So i found a really good deal on a older MSP 3140, pre M&R version with the 4 posts.  It has a light integrator and everything appears to be working.

   The issue I have with it is when doing either emulsion, if I leave the screen on long enough so it properly exposes, i lose all detail.  In order to get all my halftones and the correct amount of detail I have to basically expose the screen for half the required LTU, and then wash it out, dry, and post expose.  But this leads to issues with slime on the inside of the screen and I know it will cause problems if I get to any jobs over 100 shirts or so.  I do mostly WB and DC so I know ink sitting in this screen will probably lead to issues on a long run with losing so much emulsion.

   So, Has anyone have any advice on this?  I am thinking maybe the lamp is going out, just seems weird that a $30 MH lamp from a hardware store would outperform this, but possibly I am doing something wrong that i don't realize as well.

[cbjamel]

What film type?

Shane

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[SI]

this is the film i am currently using:

http://www.tandjprintingsupply.com/productdetailI2.aspx?dataid=SVTJWP517100

I can tell where the film was on the emulsion after washing out the image, where with the DIY unit i don't have that issue.  I'm leaning towards thinking the lamp is just weak. 

[cbjamel]

Maybe they put a different bulb in than what is recommended to small wattage.
Shane

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[blue moon]

many things to look at here, but without a doubt your exposure times are too short. We were at 90 seconds+ for 305 mesh and 110 was almost three minutes on our 3140.

problem you are having with halftones closing in has to do with your films not being dark enough. The light is burning through it and exposing the emulsion.  what kind of ink are you using? what kind of printer? RIP?

pierre

[SI]

Epson 1430, Stock ink from Epson.  I haven't bought a rip yet, I am using ultraseps plugin for photoshop.  I am suspecting (film not dark enough) as well after reading your comments.  Im going to download a trial of accurip and try a test of that compared to using ultraseps utilizing your test file from here:

http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,8018.0.html

[SI]

Now I feel silly, Ultraseps is definitely not good enough to be printed from directly.  Looks like I'll be buying the full license of Accurip unless there is a cheaper equal option out there?  I'm posting the 50% opacity pictures, obviously the crisper square blocks are from accurip.  Not to mention the ink itself is more opaque from the accurip print, I don' know why i thought for some reason that Ultraseps could replace a RIP, luckily almost everything I have done so far has been logos and nothing with half tones.  Back to exposure time testing.  Is there a huge benefit with going with the black pearl all black ink kit for the epson printers?

[Gilligan]

Speed, but you sacrifice detail.

Almost everyone opts for detail over speed and just runs a single black.

It's been discussed a good bit on here before.

[cbjamel]

Now I feel silly, Ultraseps is definitely not good enough to be printed from directly.  Looks like I'll be buying the full license of Accurip unless there is a cheaper equal option out there?  I'm posting the 50% opacity pictures, obviously the crisper square blocks are from accurip.  Not to mention the ink itself is more opaque from the accurip print, I don' know why i thought for some reason that Ultraseps could replace a RIP, luckily almost everything I have done so far has been logos and nothing with half tones.  Back to exposure time testing.  Is there a huge benefit with going with the black pearl all black ink kit for the epson printers?

Lok at cadlinks filmaker.
Shane

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[Frog]

Okay, Epson 1430 folks, are there no settings to tweak with the printer itself to obtain decent black films?
On the old 3000, it was set for backlit transparency or something.

[jsheridan]

As far as the exposure unit, make sure you have a new bulb and also make sure you have the correct line voltage selected INSIDE the machine.  If you're not sure of this, consult your user manual or call service as this is very important to get proper voltage to the bulb.

Also, check your glass on the unit and see if it's been replaced. If you look at the edge of the glass and it has a very green hue to it, chances are it's been replaced with regular plate glass that can block the UV light causing longer exposure times.

[bulldog]

Okay, Epson 1430 folks, are there no settings to tweak with the printer itself to obtain decent black films?
On the old 3000, it was set for backlit transparency or something.

I just have it set to Best Photo and Epson Premium Glossy Paper. Using Cobra CISS all black ink. I can print dark spot color films straight out of photoshop.

[XG Print]

Cobra all black dye ink in refillable carts for our 1430 and we love it...Really dark films.  I have a 3140 as well.

[ABuffington]

If you can see through the black area of the film, then light will be getting through as well.  Some dye type inks can pull this off, but halftones need good opacity.  You are only getting a dozen or so pico liter dots on halftones below 10%.   You can also double up your films until you get a good RIP which has more control over opacity.  Definitely get a new bulb from M&R to start with..  The new ones have stronger light IMO than the older ones from years ago.>

Pierre's advice is sound, your times are quite short to properly expose the emulsion.  Run a step test, or emulsion calculator on each mesh count.  Get some baby powder to put on the print side of the screen.  It will save your black imagery.  Once the glass heats up film tends to stick to emulsions.


Al

[blue moon]

Now I feel silly, Ultraseps is definitely not good enough to be printed from directly.  Looks like I'll be buying the full license of Accurip unless there is a cheaper equal option out there?  I'm posting the 50% opacity pictures, obviously the crisper square blocks are from accurip.  Not to mention the ink itself is more opaque from the accurip print, I don' know why i thought for some reason that Ultraseps could replace a RIP, luckily almost everything I have done so far has been logos and nothing with half tones.  Back to exposure time testing.  Is there a huge benefit with going with the black pearl all black ink kit for the epson printers?

google t-biz network and get a copy of Scott's RIP (T-RIP I think it's called). It's the best bang for the buck when starting with RIP software and I think it's priced the same as AR.

pierre