Liquid Silver

[avogel]

I am trying to print some liquid silver ink for the first time. I bought IC 96 Metallic Silver. I am trying to match a print that has a foil look to it but was printed with ink. My problem is in the curing and washing. I have done about 15 wash tests with inconsistent results. Initially most of them washed off, and dulled out. I did some searching and found a suggestion of putting a clear coat on top. I gave that a try and it washed ok but it instantly dulled out the print. My best result has come with a manual print thru a 110 mesh, no underbase, no pfp. That washed ok, but still dulled out quite a bit.

Any suggestions for on how to keep the shine after washing? I have an Economax dryer with 3 heat panels. My best results were on a control setting of 945 and 1.75 belt speed (very slow). This order is over 100 pieces of mixed apparel. Hoodies, and tees, different brands and different blends. Thanks!

[Frog]

I got away from the actual metallics in lieu of shimmers some time ago, but it sounds like you are stuck with them.
Tarnishing was always one of the inherent problems but was usually helped with a clear overcoat, though you say that the clear coat itself changes the shine too much.

As you learned, cure is a little tricky due to the reflective nature of the ink

Laundering is apparently the biggest bugaboo recognized by the manufacturer according to these stringent instructions:

[Colin]

Is the print you are trying to match done with a waterbase ink?

All* "liquid metal" plastisol inks will oxidize in the wash after about 6 washes.  This means they turn grey.  There is an aluminum powder used to make it look silver and that aluminum tarnishes.

I do not know if there is a waterbase equivalent that does better - I assume there is.

* - I want to say there is one plastisol product that lasts much longer through the wash but my memory is very hazy on this....

Can you over print a clear ink on top of the liquid metal so it retains 75% plus of its shine - Yes.  But the only time I have been able to really make it work, was with curable reducer through a 300 mesh.  I.e. a realllllly thin print to seal the liquid silver print.

Oh, and the silver will reflect heat so it will take at least twice as long to fully cure the ink.

Hopefully someone will know a better trick.

[Ross_S]

I haven't seen any problems with the Wilflex products might get a sample of it.

[Frog]

I haven't seen any problems with the Wilflex products might get a sample of it.

Yep, and their product is actually called Liquid Silver. However, they also suggest a clear overcoat (though they say to protect against abrasion rather than tarnishing) and have the same tough washing instructions that most folks will ignore.
http://www.polyone.com/files/resources//10988PFXLS_Epic_Liquid_Silver.pdf

[Colin]

The phosphates in the soap tarnishes the particles.

That's why the Woolite recommendation.

Most shops, once they see the wash restrictions and lack of a durable product, choose not to print it and to use foil instead....

[avogel]

Thank you. I originally tried to get the Wilflex but it was going to take a week to get through my local supplier and I had to buy a gallon, so I opted for the IC product. The sample print that was provided to me appears to have been washed (don't know how many times or if it was machine washed) and it still has a very good shine. It has a rough feel which led me to believe it was printed and not foiled.

Guess I will try to find another Wilflex supplier close to me and see if I can get some of the Liquid Silver.

[Ross_S]

Where are you located?

[avogel]

Tulsa, Oklahoma. We have GSG in town, but they wont sell me less than a gallon and they had to order it in.

[Colin]

Can you post a pic of the shirt in question?

[ZooCity]

We print a ton of Wilflex Epic Liquid Silver and Liquid Gold, not a single comment or complaint from our clients regarding wash/wear.  I'm curious now and will test one of our prints again though, you guys made me paranoid!  We recommend it over foil for reduced cost and do give the tarnishing disclaimer.  I feel like it's easier to prevent end users from destroying a correctly printed and cured plastisol particle print than a foil application.  Let's be honest here, it's 1 in 1000 who will actually hand wash something in woolite, they're all going to toss into the hot washer with tide or whatever and right into a hot dryer. 

It could be a typo but Wilflex lists this ink as curing at 300˚F.  If so, we've been overcuring it all along but I imagine they built the lower cure temp into the base ink to help avoid cure issues that many have with heat reflective particle inks and electric panel dryers. 

avogel, if you need a smaller amount email me.  I'd be happy to break you off whatever you need at our cost.  We buy it by the 5gal so it should be a good deal and no waiting.   

[jvanick]

It could be a typo but Wilflex lists this ink as curing at 300˚F.  If so, we've been overcuring it all along but I imagine they built the lower cure temp into the base ink to help avoid cure issues that many have with heat reflective particle inks and electric panel dryers. 

some of the other Wilflex TDS guides now say 300 degrees for curing.

Amazing Base is one of them (we've actually been really happy with it the AB base over the older 15000 series base)

[avogel]

Thank you everyone who replied. I printed another sample with some Silver Shimmer that I had on hand. I am going to have the customer come by and go over options with him.

Zoo - Thank you! I will see what the customer says, will contact you if I need to get some Liquid Silver.

[ZooCity]

It could be a typo but Wilflex lists this ink as curing at 300˚F.  If so, we've been overcuring it all along but I imagine they built the lower cure temp into the base ink to help avoid cure issues that many have with heat reflective particle inks and electric panel dryers. 

some of the other Wilflex TDS guides now say 300 degrees for curing.

Amazing Base is one of them (we've actually been really happy with it the AB base over the older 15000 series base)

Huh, I wonder if the 320˚F was a cya or if there's been some actual change to cure temp?

Amazing base has been very good to us here.  Little bit of afterflash tack going on and it can be problematic if you lack heads for cool down but I believe it's a necessary evil in the makeup of the ink to achieve other properties, specifically a stable rheology at higher PC loads.   

Amazing is a much superior WOW ink in my opinion to the original Epic base.

[jvanick]

Amazing is a much superior WOW ink in my opinion to the original Epic base.

100% agree.

just have to be careful with the mixing system... some of the colors in the IMS haven't been updated yet.  (I have to say that Steve and Ho are awesome tho, and I generally will get the corrected formula within hours of asking for it).