Advice on gradient

[kingscreen]

I am looking for advice on separating this gradient.  White tees.  It seems simple but I'm having a brain malfunction.

[mimosatexas]

err...

I'm sure others will have their own methods, but I would make it it's own layer, then do a black to white gradient overlay and adjust the start and end points to match the art.

[Colin]

What program are you using?

[kingscreen]

Photoshop.  I have it set now to print only Red and Royal.  But I'm wondering if I should print one solid and gradient on top or if I should try both as overlaying gradients.

[mimosatexas]

overlaying gradients.  It looks like you need about 10% solid blue at the bottom, and maybe 15-20% solid red at the top, then overlap from there.  Doing a full overlap is going to muddy one color or the other at the opposite end.

[Printficient]

I would do a stochastic sep 100% - 0% for each color.  The dots would be all the same size.  Also called an index sep I believe.

[tonypep]

Either way it should be 100 to 5 percent not zero

[Sbrem]

Either way it should be 100 to 5 percent not zero

Yes, much cleaner blend if it doesn't go to 0... no hard break at the end, just smooth.

Steve

[tonypep]

100 to 5 Photoshop elliptical 3 color blend

[ZooCity]

Nice Tony.  You guys really have the blends down.

On art like this I'm normally bitmapping dots and punching them out of the other channels for even, 100% coverage across the design; interlocking tones and then some blending on the edges where they gain on film and press. 

I want to find some secret sauce to just output normally to the RIP but it seems no matter what combination of offset angles (always elliptical dot here) I use for each channel there's always those areas of the gradient with thin coverage when outputting from the RIP.  To the RIP works OK for me for art like Tony's example as you are stretching the colors of the gradients over each other, lots of overlap so dots are landing on color but I struggle with anything but interlocking on most fades.

[blue moon]

Either way it should be 100 to 5 percent not zero

this1 We might go 10% on lower end to make it cleaner. . .

pierre

[BRGtshirts]

I know I'm late to the party, but saw that one person said they'd do the separation in Photoshop. Any reason not to separate in Illustrator if you have vector? Getting ready to do some R&D on a similar 2-color gradient.

[JBLUE]

This works well for Illustrator. We do the same thing. We never do 100%-0%. I cant stand missing dots.....lol Not only that but you want to have a good transition too.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=67YjYr8Zh2Q

[BRGtshirts]

This works well for Illustrator. We do the same thing. We never do 100%-0%. I cant stand missing dots.....lol Not only that but you want to have a good transition too.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=67YjYr8Zh2Q

Awesome & thanks a lot. I like Rising Sun's tutorials so I'll definitely look that over. The transition will be important on this job so thanks again. Don't want to miss the dots!

[Sbrem]

I know I'm late to the party, but saw that one person said they'd do the separation in Photoshop. Any reason not to separate in Illustrator if you have vector? Getting ready to do some R&D on a similar 2-color gradient.

If you're familiar enough with both, it really doesn't matter which one you use. Our in house artist would do it in Illy, I would use PS. Either way, we would probably print a solid red then print the blue on top, we're not big fans of both colors fading, though the Stochastic suggestion (convert RGB to Index in the Image menu) would do just that very nicely... if you can hold the registration that is...

Steve