"He who marches out of step hears another drum." ~ Ken Kesey
@Danny - Not sure I can see how the grey + white as a wet on wet print would work out, seems like a recipe for a mess? Maybe I'm confused.@ScreenedGear - The grey box is definitely a part of the logo. Whole logo to be printed onto orange fabric (but not the same orange as the logo, so it needs its own ink). What I'm getting from your post is: grey box>flash>white (with choke under orange)>flash>orange. As you say I'm trying to avoid unnecessary screens or flashes for the small order quantity.
Quote from: Colin on August 03, 2015, 02:43:01 PM My Shop, my parameters....1) 180 mesh - Grey2) 150s mesh - White Base - .5 Choke for orange overlap-Flash-Smoothing Screen - this helps soooooooo much3) 180 mesh - Orange. I use Rutlands mixing system so I would create an opaque white base plate version.-Flash-4) 180 Mesh - White HighliteWe will ALWAYS do a white highlite screen. 1) It smooths out the edges of the other colors that wick out/get fuzzy. With smaller text you run the risk of it becoming illegible without it.2) Makes for a thinner better feeling print.When printing the grey and white base wet on wet you need to make sure you are not laying down a TON of ink. Just enough to allow the ink to get into the shirt when stepped on by the white base. We also choke the white base to assist with the grey ink spreading a touch. With our printing the hand would be very soft and still very bright.Other shops would prefer to print their white base through a higher mesh count, which is perfectly fine within their shops parameters.My 2 cents.sounds like we would print exactly the same
My Shop, my parameters....1) 180 mesh - Grey2) 150s mesh - White Base - .5 Choke for orange overlap-Flash-Smoothing Screen - this helps soooooooo much3) 180 mesh - Orange. I use Rutlands mixing system so I would create an opaque white base plate version.-Flash-4) 180 Mesh - White HighliteWe will ALWAYS do a white highlite screen. 1) It smooths out the edges of the other colors that wick out/get fuzzy. With smaller text you run the risk of it becoming illegible without it.2) Makes for a thinner better feeling print.When printing the grey and white base wet on wet you need to make sure you are not laying down a TON of ink. Just enough to allow the ink to get into the shirt when stepped on by the white base. We also choke the white base to assist with the grey ink spreading a touch. With our printing the hand would be very soft and still very bright.Other shops would prefer to print their white base through a higher mesh count, which is perfectly fine within their shops parameters.My 2 cents.