Joe Clarke's Ink

[DannyGruninger]

Those blue shirts in the video are a blend. For it being just a "cotton" ink it has some pretty damn good blocking ability. I know he is working on getting his poly ink released to market right now

[jvanick]

now you got me interested

gonna have to get a sample in here to play with... we rarely do any 100% cotton anymore with plastisol.. (only tough colors that won't discharge well)

[LoneWolf2]

I'm thinking I may have gotten a bad batch of the black. That stuff builds up so bad on the back of my screens that i've just completely stopped using it. I was getting at least a nickles width worth of buildup on the back of them and it was damn near impossible to clean it off without having to really scrub it with some screen opener and a soft scrub pad (it tore right through shop towels). The white is nice, has quite a bit of puff in it from what i'm seeing though.

[alan802]

I'm thinking I may have gotten a bad batch of the black. That stuff builds up so bad on the back of my screens that i've just completely stopped using it. I was getting at least a nickles width worth of buildup on the back of them and it was damn near impossible to clean it off without having to really scrub it with some screen opener and a soft scrub pad (it tore right through shop towels). The white is nice, has quite a bit of puff in it from what i'm seeing though.

Can you remember about what the temperature inside the shop was at the time or has it happened across a large range of temps?  I've been using the black for about a year and we print black first down all the time and only had buildup under conditions that were very ripe for buildup, high temps inside the shop, low mesh counts, high humidity, tacky emulsion to start the process, next to a flash, etc.

[blue moon]

we just ran our first job with the white ink yesterday (only 60 pieces) and the press op said it was the best white he's seen so far. Obviously, this is just one job and more testing needs to be done, but he thought it was worth the extra money (and he rarely does).

pierre

[bimmridder]

I know Joe has some photos of some prints done by one of the best printers in the country, and compares NexGen to Brand X. In the pictures I saw, by only changing the white ink, the prints were superior with NexGen. These were on sim process. Hopefully he will publish soon so you can see.

[LoneWolf2]

I'm thinking I may have gotten a bad batch of the black. That stuff builds up so bad on the back of my screens that i've just completely stopped using it. I was getting at least a nickles width worth of buildup on the back of them and it was damn near impossible to clean it off without having to really scrub it with some screen opener and a soft scrub pad (it tore right through shop towels). The white is nice, has quite a bit of puff in it from what i'm seeing though.

Can you remember about what the temperature inside the shop was at the time or has it happened across a large range of temps?  I've been using the black for about a year and we print black first down all the time and only had buildup under conditions that were very ripe for buildup, high temps inside the shop, low mesh counts, high humidity, tacky emulsion to start the process, next to a flash, etc.

It's ranged across all temps and conditions (cold/hot/dry/humid) unfortunately. Lowest mesh it goes through is a 230-s, but i've put it through 255 and 305 and had the same results.
The white on the other hand was good. I'll see if I can get some pics/videos of it printing

[ericheartsu]

i just emailed Joe about this, as we are doing more testing today.

We are trying the white again today, but in the past we've had a really hard time with this ink.

on our g3, i have this ink going through a 200s screen, with a yellow smiling jack, but it has to flood and print so slow in order to clear, and our pressure is between 40 and 50psi. so high!

[DannyGruninger]

i just emailed Joe about this, as we are doing more testing today.

We are trying the white again today, but in the past we've had a really hard time with this ink.

on our g3, i have this ink going through a 200s screen, with a yellow smiling jack, but it has to flood and print so slow in order to clear, and our pressure is between 40 and 50psi. so high!

Yeah something is def wrong..... We are printing some jobs right now through a 225/40 s thread mesh and I can open up the speed as fast as it will go and we are clearing the screen no problem..... Have you tried swapping blades?

[Ross_S]

To much pressure for that squeegee; there is no way it's printing on the edge of the blade.  Is your blade folding?  Switch out your squeegee and try a normal blade and see what happens.  If that fails then check your mesh tension and off contact if you haven't already

[ericheartsu]

Will check mesh tension when it's off press, but i'm fairly certain it's gonna be around 22n.

Blade is not folding!
trying a new blade now though to test it out!

[alan802]

Here's a pic from Dave/Bimmridder.  Printed through a 150/48 PFP.


Here's a pic of a test print we did this morning.  One hit, 120/54 with double bevel blade on medium colored blue.  Printed at 20"/sec and about 22psi.


Closer up

[Prosperi-Tees]

looks kinda puffy... is it?

[alan802]

i just emailed Joe about this, as we are doing more testing today.

We are trying the white again today, but in the past we've had a really hard time with this ink.

on our g3, i have this ink going through a 200s screen, with a yellow smiling jack, but it has to flood and print so slow in order to clear, and our pressure is between 40 and 50psi. so high!

That's a strange one.  I know the way our press is set up with the chopper length and off contact our yellow (white knight blade correct?) would definitely be buckled at 35psi and would never hold up to 40-50, so there is one place I'd start to look for the problem.  It's certainly possible to use the white knight on that mesh count but optimally it will perform much better on lower mesh counts and I'd go with a higher duro blade on that mesh count unless the ink was pure silk and the blade edge was SHARP.  We don't have any set rules on blade to mesh count but the higher the mesh count the higher we go on blade duro and the more important the sharpness of the blade comes into play. 

The test prints I showed are within tolerance print thickness wise, at least in my opinion.   

[Onewithpez]

So I am finally getting around to testing my nextgen cotton. When I cute the ink, it is puff like almost as much as a puff additive. Any ideas? Don't a PFP through a 160s at 28n (manual) and curing to 330ish. I sent them a message and tried to call but so far no answer.


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