HSA inks on Royal Tees

[jvanick]

HSA white flashes significantly faster than even a fast flashing plastisol white.

you are correct on this point, I just meant that you have to flash more times typically.

[Sbrem]

HSA white flashes significantly faster than even a fast flashing plastisol white.

you are correct on this point, I just meant that you have to flash more times typically.

So, all three inks in this example are HSA?

Steve

[ericheartsu]

This is a job we just ran, on royal next level 3600s

166: GG meteor white
flash
166: Sericol Red
flash
200s: GG Meteor White

It came out looking pretty great. I'll admit the picture makes the white pop a bit more, but in person it looks pretty great.

The job we were trying yesterday wasn't going to work with the two whites, due to it being SUPER blocky. Basically a "staff" print.

[ZooCity]

HSA white flashes significantly faster than even a fast flashing plastisol white.

you are correct on this point, I just meant that you have to flash more times typically.

So, all three inks in this example are HSA?

Steve

Yeah, I think there's a real spread on how HSA performs from mfg to mfg and from shop to shop.  It's climate based for sure and the amount of additives used, H20 included has a big impact along with flash air flow, pre-heating platens, blade type and angle, etc. 

In our testing the Rutland Soft White beat out Wilflex Oasis, CCI Pure White and I want to say Magna but can't recall, in overall opacity with 2 screens so we rolled with the Rutland.  At the time they were touting a HSA clear mixing base that is tinted with WB99 PCs, I thought this would be perfect, less ink on the shelves.  Turns out that the WB99+HSA base isn't very opaque (nobody has nailed this yet I hear) and you have to buy the "RFU" inks which utilize a dry flake pig if you want plastisol like opacity.  I put RFU in quotes because they aren't ready for use and require fixative sometimes.  How do you know when?  When you have to recall a crap ton of shirts. 

Anyways, there are more options available now than when we tested initially that we need to check out like Green Galaxy, Virus, Matsui's newer line and Rutland is supposedly revamping the HSA line. 

[ZooCity]

Eric, what sericol ink are you overprinting onto an HSA base???

[ericheartsu]

Eric, what sericol ink are you overprinting onto an HSA base???

It's a custom mixed texcharge! our wash test with it seemed like it was fine

[ZooCity]

Geezus.  You overprinted DC ink onto HSA and that worked out?  I could not be more skeptical.  A couple years back CCI told us we could overprint WB inks onto their Pure White and that was a load of bullcrap, the prints looked great out of the dryer and then faded away after 1-3 washings.  I can't imagine unactivated discharge somehow adhering.

[ericheartsu]

weird, I  just checked out 3rd wash batch, and they didn't fade, they looked fine!

[ZooCity]

Well that's awesome!  Still scares me though and I also do not understand how that is working on a physics/chemistry level.

[ericheartsu]

Well that's awesome!  Still scares me though and I also do not understand how that is working on a physics/chemistry level.

no matter how i try, i never understand how things work on a chemistry/physics level.

[ebscreen]

To be clear, that print is unactivated discharge over a HSA white base?

[Rob Coleman]

HSA white flashes significantly faster than even a fast flashing plastisol white.

you are correct on this point, I just meant that you have to flash more times typically.

So, all three inks in this example are HSA?

Steve

Yeah, I think there's a real spread on how HSA performs from mfg to mfg and from shop to shop.  It's climate based for sure and the amount of additives used, H20 included has a big impact along with flash air flow, pre-heating platens, blade type and angle, etc. 

In our testing the Rutland Soft White beat out Wilflex Oasis, CCI Pure White and I want to say Magna but can't recall, in overall opacity with 2 screens so we rolled with the Rutland.  At the time they were touting a HSA clear mixing base that is tinted with WB99 PCs, I thought this would be perfect, less ink on the shelves.  Turns out that the WB99+HSA base isn't very opaque (nobody has nailed this yet I hear) and you have to buy the "RFU" inks which utilize a dry flake pig if you want plastisol like opacity.  I put RFU in quotes because they aren't ready for use and require fixative sometimes.  How do you know when?  When you have to recall a crap ton of shirts. 

Anyways, there are more options available now than when we tested initially that we need to check out like Green Galaxy, Virus, Matsui's newer line and Rutland is supposedly revamping the HSA line.

Hey Zoo!  these HSA inks are CONSTANTLY evolving.  The inks you looked at six months ago are not the same as today in many cases.  Venture to say, 12 months from now, there will be other changes.  Manufacturers in this field are constantly chasing the elusive pot of gold!

Wilflex new INTENSE WHITE and MAGNA's new AQUAFLEX White are worth looking at in your mix.

[ZooCity]

On the list, thanks Rob.  And that's good to hear there is R&D going into HSA inks, I think they'll be great with the right chemistry, much more friendly on press than now I hope.

[TCT]

Here is a pic of that job we did with the Matsui ink. Top pic is 2 HSA whites, bottom pic is 2 plastisol(IC Legacy I believe).

[alan802]

It's been a year since I tested an HSA, and I literally threw the remaining ink in the trash when I was done.  If everyone was getting the above results then it looks to beat plastisol.  It sure wasn't close to plastisol when I tested it but it's changing quickly so maybe one day it will rival plastisol for us.