Deciphering between "S" and "LX" mesh

[TCT]

So somewhere along the line I think a roll of our 150 "LX" mesh got mislabeled "S" mesh. I don't know for sure, but the LX mesh almost seems to have a sheen to it usually, more than the S I think. I could be wrong and it is the other way around!

Anyone know a way to decipher between the two if they are side by side?

[Gilligan]

That fancy cheap microscope that I got fussed at for hating on.

Lx should have the knuckles welded together.

[blue moon]

also, all the LX mesh I've seen was white. . .

pierre

[TCT]

That fancy cheap microscope that I got fussed at for hating on.

Lx should have the knuckles welded together.

Used that microscope like a SOB, but I can't tell the difference.... Maybe if I use my welding mask it will be clearer?

also, all the LX mesh I've seen was white. . .

pierre

That's the other kicker, the S mesh bolt I had was white as well!:-


The weird thing is there is no printed info along the outer edges like the other S meshes I have...

[Gilligan]

Maybe spring for the $9 microscope next time.

[Screen Dan]

I don't mean to derail the thread (split it off if necessary), but it seems like a reasonable place for the question:

How does 150-LX stack up against 150-S?  We've been in the 150-S camp for 6 or 7 years now and we absolutely love it...but I have been curious about the LX's performance and durability.

Screw it, I'm just going to order some to test...but any feedback would be appreciated.

[ABuffington]

OK guys, here is the difference in Murakami S Mesh vs LX-S Mesh.  The "S" is the US version of thread diameter.  The rest of the world uses numbers, so a 150/s =150/48 micron thread and an LX 150/48 and 150/48 micron thread both have the same thread diameters.  The difference is in the construction of the thread and the mesh knuckles.  Murakami/Smartmesh 150/48 is our standard S mesh with a polyester thread, typically in yellow.  The LX 150/48 is a different thread construction.  It has a polyester inner core, and a soft nylon outer core.  When heat set at the knuckles the threads weld into each other so much that it almost looks like one thread passes through the other.  This flatter mesh knuckle reduces the RZ value on the squeegee side making a smoother surface.  This allows for slightly less squeegee pressure than a 150/48 Polyester (yellow mesh) and can print slightly more opaque than the 150/48 poly mesh.

Murakami LX mesh will print slightly better than 150/48 poly mesh due to this reduced RZ value and will print white base plates easier since the thread can compress during printing. The difference in opacity is slightly better, but the quality of the shirt you print on also has an impact on good opaque base plates.

Murakami LX also resists screen tears better, but since it is softer you can wear through the mesh where the squeegee makes contact with the screen if off contact is too high or you don't round off the ends of your squeegees.  There is no halation with this clear mesh unlike opaque white mesh.

PM me if you need more info. 

Alan

[TCT]

Here is my best attempt at photos? Will these help at all?

[sqslabs]

Based on what appears to be a roundness to the knuckles, I'm gonna go with LX.

Just a guess of course.

[sqslabs]

Aaaand I may be completely wrong on that.  Here's a picture of LX mesh (from the Murakami website) to make things more confusing.



PS - LX mesh definitely does have much more of a sheen to it in my experience.  It's almost silvery.

[starchild]

Evertime the squeegee edge go over mesh knuckles, there is a pressure drop in ink delivery volume. This also happens dead center of the mesh opening where the opening is tightest. The LX mesh eliminates one (and both because it's a thinner thread diameter) of the pressure drop because of the eliminated knuckles jitter that the squeegee has to contend with during the print stroke.. So the elimination of the mesh knuckles, will increase ink volume or maybe ink deposit over regular s mesh.

Sent using Tapatalk

[Colin]

That sir looks like LX mesh to me.

[Screen Dan]

I ordered a small bolt of LX.  I can't wait to try this stuff out.

[ZooCity]

Looks like it's calendared from what I can make out so I'm with Colin - LX.  How about stick a mesh determiner on some regular 150 s and move it around a few ways and then see if it's a bit different on this mesh. 

[TCT]

Thanks guys! My thoughts were it was LX also. It has a different "sheen" to it.

Zoo- I tried that, it was super hard to tell any differences with the mesh determiner deal.... Keep in mind though I am short on patients so maybe if I took 4 seconds instead of 3 seconds I could of figured it out!