Wilflex Whites for automatic shops

[Jwcontractscreen]

Anyone who uses Wilflex whites care to chime in on what white and mesh counts you are using?

I recently started using Amazing bright white and I ran some 50/50 reds two coats with 135-48S Murakami mesh

It looks pink after a few hours went by.

The biggest problem is opacity and bleeding with two whites on colors. I typically use 135-48S for the first white and 150-64 for the top white.


I used to use quick white and had opacity problems. Amazing seemed good on most prints. I have white buffalo for some prints, but it's not Epic.

[jvanick]

We have really good results with Quick White here.. yesterday we ran some Gildan Sapphire with a 2-hit (no flash) on a 180S screen with great opacity.

I had the same problems with the Amazing White not being bleed resistant enough, oddly tho, it had opacity problems, so not exactly sure what was going on with it.

Typical Quick White printing for us is 160S pfp for big vector work.

[LoneWolf2]

Also had problems with the amazing white bleeding badly, and lacked opacity. So
You're not the only one!

[ZooCity]

Have ran Quick for quite awhile now.  For a white - flash - white I think it's perfect.  Not 100% on it as an underbase at this point but it's a great ink on the auto and has done very well with the bleed resistance for us.  People talk about having troubles printing whites but I wish all our ink behaved like quick.  Spot fill areas run on 150 or 180 mesh typically.

[ericheartsu]

we've used amazing white for the past two months, it's been fine, no issues with bleeding that we've seen

[jsheridan]

Quick white for the base and bright tiger for the highlight.

If you cant get quick opaque with s mesh 135 and 150, its your technique.

I use 150 s as base and 180 standard mesh for highlight every day and its the bees knees.

Back way off your pressure and use a 10 degree angle with a quick stroke, flash then smooth, hit highlight same with faster stroke.

[jvanick]

Back way off your pressure and use a 10 degree angle with a qukck stroke, flash them smooth, hit highlight same with faster stroke.

can't over emphasize the quick stroke on the base... anytime we're having opacity issues with Quick White, it's usually that we're printing too slow and/or too much pressure.

[dirkdiggler]

Quick white for the base and bright tiger for the highlivht.

If you cant get quick opaque with s mesh 135 and 150, its your technigue.

I use 150 s as base and 180 standard mesh for highlight every day and its the bees knees.

Back way off your pressure and use a 10 degree angle with a qukck stroke, flash them smooth, hit highlight same with faster stroke.

same here!

[Robert Clark]

   One thing to keep in mind in ANY shop is to test your dryer !!! Especially through all four seasons ! What was working for you two months ago, will not work for you during the spring season ... More windows are open more fans are on .. not to mention more bay doors open. All this will suck air from you chamber and cause you to under cure your prints.

    But I use my gun to test !!!!


      Not good enough !!! A simple investment of temperature strips will go a long way.. This will help insure the fabric under two layers of ink is up to proper temperature. I cannot count how many calls we get on a daily basis about this during spring and fall season. So turn up the heat and slow down the belt.

 

[mhprinting]

I've had problems with opacity with amazing bright white. I ordered a gallon of quick white and I'm liking it so far

[tonyt79]

I've had problems with opacity with amazing bright white. I ordered a gallon of quick white and I'm liking it so far

I had the same problem but my rep said to reduce the pressure and it worked very well. Just enough pressure to clear the screen

[Jwcontractscreen]

I'll give the pressure a try. We were using 150-s for a while and it was working great, then the opacity dropped so I switched to the 135 S. It didn't help a ton, but was a little better.

I have a donut probe to test the dryer and have noticed that even though we keep the gates down as far a s they can go, the winter time needed some changes in temp and belt speed. The opacity problem is before the dryer though. I can see it as it's coming off the press.



When you all say faster stroke and flood, If you use an M&R, what about do you have the dials set to for speed? My flood it a t 5 and stroke is at 4.5 with my pressure around 45lbs and 1/16 off contact with 20-25 NM screens.

[ZooCity]

I'll give the pressure a try. We were using 150-s for a while and it was working great, then the opacity dropped so I switched to the 135 S. It didn't help a ton, but was a little better.

I have a donut probe to test the dryer and have noticed that even though we keep the gates down as far a s they can go, the winter time needed some changes in temp and belt speed. The opacity problem is before the dryer though. I can see it as it's coming off the press.



When you all say faster stroke and flood, If you use an M&R, what about do you have the dials set to for speed? My flood it a t 5 and stroke is at 4.5 with my pressure around 45lbs and 1/16 off contact with 20-25 NM screens.

Your settings are pretty close to ours.  Flood add slow as possible with plastisol,  i.e.,as slow as you can go without being behind the index. You want to fill/load the stencil with ink,  the squeegee then just had to shear it and pump it out.  Try,  as suggested going faster and lighter with the squeegee.  Our off contact for plasti is 5/32.  Adjust those parameters and then look at your blades.  A 135s should be laying down too much ink.  You should be able to get opacity on most fabrics with the 150s. How are you coating?  Eom could be a factor as well.

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[Itsa Little CrOoked]

I'm nearly a total neophyte on my auto.

I use Quick on my manual & have for a couple of years. I don't especially like it on my all air Gauntlet.

I'm probably making a neophyte mistake, but I don't know what I don't know.

I'm at 15 degrees (measured objectively) squeegee angle, with lots of pressure (subjective) and a pretty slow stroke (also subjective).

But I'll back off on pressure based on what I just read in this thread and stand my squeegee up to 10 degrees. I'll also give the print stroke control valve a tweak.

Here's another basic neophyte question: How do you auto guys who use Quick stir your ink? I'm working on my 7th year on a manual, and I've never done any power stirring at all. But I do warm my whites with warmed aluminum platens in cool weather. I also warm up a few select colors that don't print very well by hand. I've got drill motors and can whip up a DIY chopper or buy something if it will help.

Stan

[Jwcontractscreen]

I never mix my quick anymore. I have an auto mixer, like a turnabout, but use it just for our actual mixing with the PC wilflex system.

I coat 2 on the shirt side and one on the squeegee side with the round end of a monster max coater. I burn my screens on a starlight for 6.6 secs for ulano orange. I can feel a pretty good gasket when washed out. My Nazdar rep says it feels great, but is not a real technical guy to give great technical printing advice.

I didn't seam to have this many problems with white until around the first of this year, then white went all to hell for us. I have printed about 75k prints since January and am getting frustrated about sending out not top notch white.  I don't have any real problems with white and a top color or colors. We do simulated  process weekly with no problems using quick white thru 225's, but it's the white, flash, white. Either white in revolver, or white on two heads.