Fibrillation frustration

[Screened Gear]

Another thing. Stay away from smoothing screens, rollers, double squeegees, beveled squeegees, hard flooding, s-mesh, super high tension screens and high EOM emulsion. All these are band aids for something your not doing right. L

Have to strongly disagree with this.

They are all tools of the trade that when used correctly, compliment what you're doing right.

I strongly feel you did not read what I wrote about these items. They are not the solution to the problem. They only aid to cover up the problem by increasing the ability of the press. The problem with that is you dont learn your press. this only stunts how good your prints can be. Take a bad print and use these tools and it becomes an ok print. Take a great print and use them and you become an award winner.

[Gilligan]

Another thing. Stay away from smoothing screens, rollers, double squeegees, beveled squeegees, hard flooding, s-mesh, super high tension screens and high EOM emulsion. All these are band aids for something your not doing right. L

Have to strongly disagree with this.

They are all tools of the trade that when used correctly, compliment what you're doing right.

I strongly feel you did not read what I wrote about these items. They are not the solution to the problem. They only aid to cover up the problem by increasing the ability of the press. The problem with that is you dont learn your press. this only stunts how good your prints can be. Take a bad print and use these tools and it becomes an ok print. Take a great print and use them and you become an award winner.

I disagreed with you at first.

But that makes sense, you want to make sure you are doing everything right first.  Good point.

[vwyob]

Ok I came in over the weekend and had some test time on the machine myself. It was great to put a load of information to the test and see how things can come together.
Again, still not perfect but an improvement. Ive had a chat with the guy (Mr 20 years) here and I'm hoping he will take this onboard. I've managed to mat down the fibres a little better and have learned the balance of air pressure and drop amongst much more. Thank you so much for your help.


Crits would be good thanks

[vwyob]

Blowing it up further and there are tiny random holes in the top color revealing the underbase. It almost looks like its repelled the orange. Few and far between but there nonetheless. Is this an underbase issue?

[mimosatexas]

That could be from overflashing the underbase, or due to some variable with the top color causing it to not clear the screen properly.

[vwyob]

Ok cheers buddy. Will look into it.

[alan802]

Blowing it up further and there are tiny random holes in the top color revealing the underbase. It almost looks like its repelled the orange. Few and far between but there nonetheless. Is this an underbase issue?

There are two big things that can cause that and a few minor.  The first of the major reasons:  It can be a fiber with ink on it sticking up past what the top color could cover.  Second major:  The top color didn't clear of ink completely.  With a loupe you can find out which one it is and then deduct how to remedy the issue.  When you look at it closely with the loupe, obviously if it's a "crater" type spot the top color just didn't put down ink in that spot due to a number of different reasons, perhaps a lint booger on the orange stencil or something else obstructing the ink, or simply a bad print stroke that left micro traces of un-deposited ink.  You can see those spots on prints that have a very rough underbase laid down along with a high mesh count used for the top color that just doesn't deposit enough ink to cover the peaks/valleys of the rough base print.  If it's a very small spot you can add a few degrees of angle to your top color and deposit slightly more ink and it will cover, or you can do things to smooth out the base print.  We could chase the rabbit down this hole for hours on how to accomplish all of that but you guys look like you've got a handle on all of that and can fix that with minor changes on press most likely.  It wouldn't take a drastic change in procedure or mesh count selection from what I see here, it's not a major flaw.

[Screened Gear]

Alan covered the whole spectrum of problems that could have caused this. (nice post Alan)

The only time I see that is a under flashed underbase or a too soft stroke on the top color.

[mimosatexas]

Rough underbase can cause it as well, and overflashing can cause the puff to do funny things in white bases sometimes causing a rough base.  Used to happen to me pretty regularly.

[jvanick]

best way to get past the over/under flashing is to get a M&R Red Chili D Quartz flash... it has a temperature sensor that works awesome... set the flash to 200-205 degrees (or whatever your particular ink brand and color gels at), and regardless if it's the first flash, or after things get up to temperature, you'll flash the perfect amount every time.

we love ours and are getting rid of the rest of our flash units due to it.

In the past, overflashing seems to have caused the most amount of troubles with prints like that for us... once we got a handle on our flashing, those little 'specs' went away.

[Gilligan]

best way to get past the over/under flashing is to get a M&R Red Chili D Quartz flash... it has a temperature sensor that works awesome... set the flash to 200-205 degrees (or whatever your particular ink brand and color gels at), and regardless if it's the first flash, or after things get up to temperature, you'll flash the perfect amount every time.

we love ours and are getting rid of the rest of our flash units due to it.

In the past, overflashing seems to have caused the most amount of troubles with prints like that for us... once we got a handle on our flashing, those little 'specs' went away.

Didn't take you long till your balls changed colors. ;p

[jvanick]

best tools for the job...   I've had the Chili D for a few months now... with all the performance wear we've been printing on lately, it makes a huge difference.

[jsheridan]

it has a temperature sensor that works awesome...

We have this feature on our MHM flashes and man is it awesome! However the placement of the sensor isn't very left chest  or small print size friendly and we have to go back to time flash vs temp.

I'm not sure of the placement of the sensor on their units so be conscious of that and where the ink is on the shirt. If the sensor only reads the shirt surface, you'll be in for a big surprise the first time you print 'out of the zone' i call it.

[Inkworks]

Years ago I had a guy print 40 hoodies with a simple white print and he had the base screen set at a silly low pressure so it just frosted the fuzz on the hoodies, then flashed it to pretty much full cure and dropped a pretty heavy top white on top, the finished product had a raised texture that resembled the image being cut out of 1/8 coarse white scotchbrite and glued on the shirt. It was the damnedest thing I've ever seen, to top it off the customer even liked it and took the product.

[vwyob]

Blowing it up further and there are tiny random holes in the top color revealing the underbase. It almost looks like its repelled the orange. Few and far between but there nonetheless. Is this an underbase issue?

There are two big things that can cause that and a few minor.  The first of the major reasons:  It can be a fiber with ink on it sticking up past what the top color could cover.  Second major:  The top color didn't clear of ink completely.  With a loupe you can find out which one it is and then deduct how to remedy the issue.  When you look at it closely with the loupe, obviously if it's a "crater" type spot the top color just didn't put down ink in that spot due to a number of different reasons, perhaps a lint booger on the orange stencil or something else obstructing the ink, or simply a bad print stroke that left micro traces of un-deposited ink.  You can see those spots on prints that have a very rough underbase laid down along with a high mesh count used for the top color that just doesn't deposit enough ink to cover the peaks/valleys of the rough base print.  If it's a very small spot you can add a few degrees of angle to your top color and deposit slightly more ink and it will cover, or you can do things to smooth out the base print.  We could chase the rabbit down this hole for hours on how to accomplish all of that but you guys look like you've got a handle on all of that and can fix that with minor changes on press most likely.  It wouldn't take a drastic change in procedure or mesh count selection from what I see here, it's not a major flaw.

Excellent post.  Thanks Alan. Makes complete sense.
In fact thanks to all. I'm now on here 2-3 times a day reading up.
One of the photography forums I hit has a little thanks button. I always feel I should thank you for your replies but I end up bumping the thread, the button prevents it. I am exceedingly grateful for the help.