stretching tables

[Shanarchy]

I am going to have to invest in a new stretching table. My roller master will only do 18x20 and 23x26.

How do the Shur-Loc tables compare? They are obviously not as engineered, but do they do the same trick just as good?

[alan802]

They do just fine.  A little more manual labor but not much.

[Gilligan]

They are not pneumatic right?

I guess that would be the major difference, you don't just flip a switch and turn knobs.

[ZooCity]

Really like having a rollermaster here.  They pop up used for around 1-2k pretty frequently. 

We're in the process of buying a bunch of gear from a shop in TX and didn't need the ShurLoc table they have, email me and I can put you in touch with the owner.

[shurloc]

Make sure to check out the super-cost-effective Accelerator X if you are running 23x31 or under. It's $399.99 for the hardware (includes everything you need to stretch an all roller frame or square bar frame - or you can do both for $499.99) and $400 for the table if you need one.

We also have someone in Maryland looking to move an almost new Accelerator 2 kit (going out of biz) for $1200 that will accommodate larger frame sizes - up to 33x37 (though the table is only drilled out to 25x36 if I'm not mistaken.)

The $800 Accelerator X kit with turntable is a pretty amazing deal though. Remember a Roller Master is limited in sizes unless you get an L4, which will set you back a pretty penny, where as the Accelerator can stretch to just about anything you can throw at it. Plus, you are guaranteed that the tubes turn evenly, unlike pneumatics that pull to the side of less resistance first. Of course, I do tend to be a bit biased...

[Parker 1]

We have the Accelerator 2 kit, and will not do with out it.  Quick, easy and simple.

Chris

[Shanarchy]

Make sure to check out the super-cost-effective Accelerator X if you are running 23x31 or under. It's $399.99 for the hardware (includes everything you need to stretch an all roller frame or square bar frame - or you can do both for $499.99) and $400 for the table if you need one.

We also have someone in Maryland looking to move an almost new Accelerator 2 kit (going out of biz) for $1200 that will accommodate larger frame sizes - up to 33x37 (though the table is only drilled out to 25x36 if I'm not mistaken.)

The $800 Accelerator X kit with turntable is a pretty amazing deal though. Remember a Roller Master is limited in sizes unless you get an L4, which will set you back a pretty penny, where as the Accelerator can stretch to just about anything you can throw at it. Plus, you are guaranteed that the tubes turn evenly, unlike pneumatics that pull to the side of less resistance first. Of course, I do tend to be a bit biased...

Thanks for the info!

[islandtees]

We have a roller master and like it. You can have them make you one to the size frames you use.

[jsheridan]

I am going to have to invest in a new stretching table. My roller master will only do 18x20 and 23x26.

How do the Shur-Loc tables compare? They are obviously not as engineered, but do they do the same trick just as good?

The roller master is designed to tension the mesh from 4 sides simultaneously. This allows the mesh to naturally stabilize and get to maximum tension quickly.

the shur loc table only does one roller at a time manually so you need to relax the mesh and tension in stages.

[shurloc]

Actually, the roller master will tweak the mesh to the side of least resistance. If you have a sticky tube, the mesh will pull the other direction faster and create crooked thread lines. Only the Accelerator has a physical stop option that locks the roller into the exact same position on the parallel tubes. So, while the roller master will pull the mesh in 4 directions at once, you can't tell for sure which direction it will be pulled, or how far. This is why most people prefer the manual control (which is why roller frames are so popular - the ability to manually control the tension) that the Accelerator offers.

That said, different meshes require different stretching. We will always recommend manual stretching for optimal control vs. powered options that limit the control you have.

[islandtees]

Actually, the roller master will tweak the mesh to the side of least resistance. If you have a sticky tube, the mesh will pull the other direction faster and create crooked thread lines. Only the Accelerator has a physical stop option that locks the roller into the exact same position on the parallel tubes. So, while the roller master will pull the mesh in 4 directions at once, you can't tell for sure which direction it will be pulled, or how far. This is why most people prefer the manual control (which is why roller frames are so popular - the ability to manually control the tension) that the Accelerator offers.

That said, different meshes require different stretching. We will always recommend manual stretching for optimal control vs. powered options that limit the control you have.

Really, LOL

[ScreenFoo]

For anyone familiar with how much force you use with a newman wrench on high tension screens, that sticky roller argument sounds pretty funny.

[Gilligan]

Still technically holds water.

If you run 31 psi (totally made up number) and you put that on both your cylinders and you have a "sticky roller" then it might need 32 psi to pull the same tension on both of sides.  Maybe only 31.5 psi and of course at some point it is negligible... but it still could TECHNICALLY be a factor.

In the end, MANY people are meshing these guys up manually and those crooked thread lines are still better than static mesh.

[screenprintguy]

I am going to have to invest in a new stretching table. My roller master will only do 18x20 and 23x26.

How do the Shur-Loc tables compare? They are obviously not as engineered, but do they do the same trick just as good?

After having a newman table for a few years now, I would say that sometimes I almost wish I went with the shur-loc table. If you have frames that start to get a little rough, or hard to turn the rollers, the newman table will favor the "looser" roller over the tighter one and give you a head ache. I think, and I haven't tried one, but from what I have heard, you are guaranteed no racking of the frame, and a completely flat roller frame with the Shurloc table. The newman table only has these little allen screws that touch the corners in 3 spots of your frame leaving a little room for slipping  and what not as you may see with your current table. Maybe the smaller screens have less issue, but I can fight it all I want, but tighten those bolts and sometimes it wants to shift since those little allen heads sticking up don't really hold anything in place. I've had a couple guys here before looking over our table, and how we use it, they say we are doing everything the way we are supposed to, but sometimes whether it's a bugger of a frame, or just the way the little screw heads stick up and don't actually, "hold" anything in solid place, the frames like to shift occasionally. From what I've heard of the shurloc table, once that frame is in place, and all the wrenches are on, it's not moving at all. Maybe the Shurloc guy can weigh in on the solidity of their design.

[bimmridder]

Find and buy a Rheema  .  You ain't getting mine though.

(not taking anything away from either Newman or Shur-Loc, just funnin')