Hello Printficient and all readers here:
Printficient, sorry you do not sell Smartmesh. It is a trademark of Nittoku Corporation from Japan who sells it only through Murakami Screen USA. Saati does not make Smart Mesh, period. Please stop confusing the forum with mis-information. thank you in advance, I know we are all trying to make business but this isn't right to say Saati makes Smartmesh, and the mesh they do make nowadays is not the same as ours, or even close. Unfortunately I have been requested to forward your comment about selling Smartmesh made by Saati to our corporate offices, they will be in contact.
Here is the real deal on Smart mesh:
1. Smartmesh uses a proprietary thread that is a low elongation thread. This is how it maintains excellent registration during print and retains excellent workable tensions.
It requires good handling techniques, the prints speak for themselves. Dot on dot register, better opacity with S mesh base plates, treated threads above 280 to transfer those pesky fine halftones better with less squeegee pressure.
2. It requires you look at your stretching processes. It reaches tension much faster than other meshes due to it's low elongation properties. Most other mesh stretches like a rubber band which loses more tension over time, can make registration difficult at lower tensions. I have specific recommendations to help any shop print better with this mesh, too much info to write up here, so hit me up with your issues so I can help.
3. Evaluate the current tensions you are printing at. Do not combine a 20 newton Smart Mesh 150S with 8 newton or less older 300's. Why? Because you will have to put off contact at 1/4" on the 300's and 1/8th inch on the 150S. Most shops don't bother to change off contact, or round off squeegee corners and the result is a popped screen.
Reclaiming, degreasing, set up are all shop specific so a call on how to best use it goes a long way.
4. At lower tension levels Smartmesh will still hold excellent register and have good print qualities. High tension only needs to be high enough to get a sharp well registered print. More tension is not necessarily good. Pallets are rarely leveled perfectly, heads may have been adjusted with more off contact and super high tensions become a headache. Optimum working tensions in the 17-22n range work well and prevent popping. If your shop is set up right, sure bump the tensions to get better peel, or faster squeegee speeds. I hear comments that "I print at 35 newtons, no less". If the mesh and your shop can handle that great, most cannot due to heavy production needs that alter pallet levelness, no change in off contact due to deadlines, or personnel who know how to load but have no idea how to level pallets or set off contact.
Many here on the forums have made great comments about Smartmesh, which comes in many thread diameters for the needs of your shop. Once fine tuned for your set up it performs exceptionally well. If you are having any issues with Smartmesh or where to get it please contact me directly so I can help trouble shoot any issues you may have. We can also drop ship from here through your Murakami Dealer if your local Murakami Dealer doesn't have a particular count in stock.
abuffington@murakamiscreen.com323.697.4334
