S-Mesh Statics review

[tonypep]

would your customers really be happy with a 1-hit white?  I've never seen a 'true 1-hit' that looks anywhere near as good as a pfp.

For us water base printers discharge works just fine 

Indeed. Most of our one hit DC whites are brighter than plastisol with no flash to turn on, no screens to  register, and the ink is around half the price.

[alan802]

Bulldog,

If you end up getting the 120's ignore Alan and get the 120/48's (60% open area) as opposed to the 120/54's (50 something % open area).  Alan doesn't know what he's missing. 

Ah ok, Alan (Buffington), that makes a lot of sense now. So the 120/48 that ScreenPrinter123 mentioned is a 120S and the 120/54 that Alan mentioned are actually a 120M.

Correct? And so the 120S would lay down slightly more ink than the 120M?

They will deposit almost the exact same amount of ink.  47 cm3/m2 for the 120S and 48 for the 120M.

[bulldog]

Bulldog,

If you end up getting the 120's ignore Alan and get the 120/48's (60% open area) as opposed to the 120/54's (50 something % open area).  Alan doesn't know what he's missing. 

Ah ok, Alan (Buffington), that makes a lot of sense now. So the 120/48 that ScreenPrinter123 mentioned is a 120S and the 120/54 that Alan mentioned are actually a 120M.

Correct? And so the 120S would lay down slightly more ink than the 120M?

They will deposit almost the exact same amount of ink.  47 cm3/m2 for the 120S and 48 for the 120M.

Do those numbers actually mean the opposite of what I was thinking? That the 120M would actually be the one to deposit slightly more? I see the ink volume column now...the higher the number the more ink deposited seems to be the trend?

Second question, if they're that close, does the advantage then become that the 120M can be tensioned slightly higher?

Is there something else I'm missing here?

Brandon

[starchild]

Bulldog,

If you end up getting the 120's ignore Alan and get the 120/48's (60% open area) as opposed to the 120/54's (50 something % open area).  Alan doesn't know what he's missing. 

Ah ok, Alan (Buffington), that makes a lot of sense now. So the 120/48 that ScreenPrinter123 mentioned is a 120S and the 120/54 that Alan mentioned are actually a 120M.

Correct? And so the 120S would lay down slightly more ink than the 120M?

They will deposit almost the exact same amount of ink.  47 cm3/m2 for the 120S and 48 for the 120M.

Do those numbers actually mean the opposite of what I was thinking? That the 120M would actually be the one to deposit slightly more? I see the ink volume column now...the higher the number the more ink deposited seems to be the trend?

Second question, if they're that close, does the advantage then become that the 120M can be tensioned slightly higher?

Is there something else I'm missing here?

Brandon

You actually kinda answered your own question.. A mesh chart gives specs for "un-tensioned" mesh.. If you go over the S and M stats for the 120 you will see they're pretty close.. The 120S even looks like the obvious choice for more "ink volume"-(We are not talking ink transfer performance).. But the thing is the open area enlarges (so some stats changes) as the mesh goes up in tension.. It just so happens that the 120M could be stretched to higher tensions compared to the 120S so the 120M will be capable of putting more ink down but does not mean it will be easier to print with.

[alan802]

Technically speaking we would be able to print with less pressure and faster with the 120S versus M but we are maxed out on both with the M already so we might as well use the more durable mesh count, but they are very similar in that regard as well.  Maybe Brian would be generous enough to let me try out a 120/48 so I can see exactly what I'm missing.

[starchild]

Technically speaking we would be able to print with less pressure and faster with the 120S versus M but we are maxed out on both with the M already so we might as well use the more durable mesh count, but they are very similar in that regard as well.  Maybe Brian would be generous enough to let me try out a 120/48 so I can see exactly what I'm missing.

I wanted to do an edit and throw in the fact that all this only matters for people that operate at optimal and understand everything else involved.. (You would have no trouble making a 120M deliver)

And you just proved that I should've done the edit.

Sent using Tapatalk

[ScreenPrinter123]

Technically speaking we would be able to print with less pressure and faster with the 120S versus M but we are maxed out on both with the M already so we might as well use the more durable mesh count, but they are very similar in that regard as well.  Maybe Brian would be generous enough to let me try out a 120/48 so I can see exactly what I'm missing.

Be careful what you ask for.

[IntegrityShirts]

135/48 is fragile enough, I can't imagine trying to make a 120/48 last more than 2 reclaim/print cycles.

[ABuffington]

S mesh does require different handling techniques to get long life.  Reclaim individually, treat them like 300's.  Soft sponges instead of brushes, soft scoop cards, no tools on screen during set up, one at a time in the dip tank.  There is another Murakami S mesh that has better rip resistance than Polyester S mesh.  Murakami LX mesh is unique in that the threads are welded almost completely so that the mesh knuckle is minimized.  This creates lower RZ values and reduces squeegee chatter and a can print with a little less pressure.  The thread is far different, soft outer core, polyamide inner core for strength.  If you pop Polyester S mesh easily, LX is a solution, but since it is softer you can wear holes where the squeegee starts printing at the corners.  Softening squeegee ends till they are glass smooth, putting tape down in the landing area for the squeegee, using minimal off contact does help preserve the mesh.  The softer outer core does 'give' a little for plastisol base plates to print slightly better and less squeegee pressure needs (minimal difference betweend LX S Mesh and Poly S Mesh squeegee pressure, but opacity is sllightly improved). 

In Japan this mesh is widely used in water base printing since it requires such little squeegee pressure to print and preserves fine index type water base printing of very fine details.  For those that have Murakami Polyester S mesh and have mastered their favorite mesh count the difference would be minimal.  For those that experience mesh popping more than they would like, LX does offer some rip resistance, but does also have a faster wear in the corners where the squeegee hits the screen which can be prevented.

I would agree with the 135S being slightly more fragile than 150S, but we do have Ningbo in China using it almost exclusively for High Solids Acrylics where it really performs well to transfer ink with a fast double stroke.  By the way, if you print HSA inks contact me.  I have a solution that you need to hear about.

Alan
abuffington@murakamiscreen.com

Al